Ghostfire

I located it on the tranny but I was hoping the piston would be exposed so I could feel if it was moving in and out or not.

My car shifts when its off but when you turn it on it doesnt want to go into gear. One thing I did notice was that when I have the car in first on flat ground it seems to pull forward. For instance if its in first and I have the clutch full press to the floor and my foot off the brake the car pulls forward almost like and automatic. It didnt do that before, its almost like the clutch isnt fully engaging.

Anyway I am just trying to narrow down my problem. The dealer says either the slave, master or the pressure plate. My dads saying maybe the syncro's. I dont know, after researching on the forum it almost sounds like it could possibly be the slave. What do you guys think?

Thanks

SCarGo02

...you have some mileage on them it probably woudln't be a bad idea. Usually the pedal goes to the floor and doesn't come back up (at least that was the case when the slave went out in one of my cars).

Since you have to open the system up and bleed it, it's easier to replace both at once then replace one just to have the other fail shortly there after.

PartyBoyRacing

How's the pedal travel distance? May just need to bleed the clutch.

AudiSport4000

BTDT on my 4ktq.

Did this just suddenly happen? How is the clutch pedal feel? Does the pedal go down easy and return fully?

I had the pilot bearing fail and shed its guts inbetween my clutch disc and flywheel, causing the clutch to not disengage. That meant I would shift gears when the car was off, but when it was on, nothing, couldnt shift into any gear. I didnt try starting the car in gear.

Not saying this is your problem, just an experience I had. I would bleed the clutch hydraulics though, its simple and an easy place to start.

Ghostfire

The clutch pedal returns all the way after I press it. It started going bad a few months ago and within a 2-3 weeks it was to bad to drive.

How do I bleed the clutch hydraulics?

AudiSport4000

This is done from the slave cylinder, which is on top of the transmission housing. There will be a bleeder valve on there which you will attach a hose to and feed it into a jar of sorts, immerse the end of the tube in some brake fluid.
Have somebody push the clutch pedal down, then open the bleeder valve, hold the pedal down for a bit, close the bleeder valve, then release your foot off of the pedal. Repeat this process numerous times, then try driving the car or shifting into gears with the car running.

PartyBoyRacing

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Use an empty pressure brake bleeder on the reservoir cap opening to force the reservoir fluid through the hydraulic lines, and a "one-man' brake bleeder (see photo) on the bleeder valve to catch the old fluid.

I had to do a full bleed about 6-8 times before the fluid would come out clear. Between bleeds, I would lock the bleeder valve, put the reservoir cap on and pump the clutch to circulate the new fluid.

With each full bleeding cycle I could feel the clutch becoming smoother with a lot better pedal feel.

After I bled the clutch, I went around and bled the brakes since i already had everything out.

Make sure you don't let the reservoir run dry. You don't want ANY air in those hydraulic lines (which I'm sure you're aware, but I had to throw out the disclaimer).

You're going to be shocked at how nasty the old fluid is...mine had the consistency of gray sludge.

Ghostfire

I checked it to see if it had air in it and it was pooring out blue and clean so I imagine bleeding it would be a wast of my time.