Loudgoldwing

Admittedly, I didn't read through the whole thread again, but if you haven't done so already, you might be well served to do the following.:

1) Fill the innards of that ISV with a good carb cleaner spray, and set it down somewhere where you can let it sit for a few minutes leaning so it keeps as much fluid inside as possible. You shouldn't just plunk it into a container of carb soak, as that will eat all of the rubber bits if there are any... but try to let the spray sit in there for a bit.

2) Dump and gently shake as much of the cleaner out as you can, then blast the inside again to flush out anything that's been soaked loose.

3) Grab a can of WD-40, or any other petroleum-based light oil. (NOT silicone, and DEFINITELY not PBlast, it'll eat the seals).

4) Spray-soak the inside of the ISV with the WD-40, and then dump it out right away. Double-check the integrity of the ISV seals, and reinstall.

I think you might be pleasantly surprised. If there actually was a crack in the hose between the ISV and the CSV, you WILL get dirt sucked in, and that will inhibit the range of motion inside the ISV over time. THAT lack of freedom of movement will definitely cause the kind of issues you've been having.

And for the record, it also would count as an intake leak, since the failure of the ISV to close all the way allows extra air to get sucked into the intake.

Snoogins,
LG

Loudgoldwing

Ok, now I did read through your thread again, and I see that, though you did say you cleaned out the throttle body, you DID NOT mention pulling off and cleaning the ISV.

If you haven't done this yet, do so... you're going to have a very good day today.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

he eather fixed it, or blew it up...

glorifiedvw

Guess I'm getting back to this a little late. I had clean the ISV with just WD-40, but Ill go back threw and do it with carb cleaner and then WD-40. I'm also doing all the vacuum lines and resealing the vacuum pump to the head as the o-ring on it was extremely bad. I'm also removing the piece going from the cylinder head to the vacuum pump to disable it as it I think, has been making a very loud whirring noise. Hopefully that will get it back up and running well again. I got new plugs so I'm also going to check for spark to rule my ignition coil out of the question. We will see where this leaves me.

glorifiedvw

Just thought I should update. I clean the ISV and did all the vacuum lines and this was still of no help. The last thing left for me to check is still spark, but I will be taking care of that tonight. I just haven't had an evening free to check all 5. If I have spark then my next step will be to pull the injectors again and make sure all are spraying and have a proper conical shape spray pattern to them.

glorifiedvw

It turns out that i'm getting no spark. My thoughts lead me to believe its my ignition coil as that's the only thing that has yet to be replaced on this car. I have done everything else spark related. Not entirely sure what could have caused it to go bad, but im hoping its that and not something worse like my ecu.

Any other thoughts or things to check before I go spending the money on a new ignition coil would be appreciated.

yodasfro

More likely a bad hall sender in the distributor, the ign. coils don't tend to fail.

glorifiedvw

Okay. Well what would be the easiest way to check this and see?

glorifiedvw

Okay so I bought a new to me ignition coil and dizzy to swap out. They are from a running car so hopefully this solves the issue. I was going to set the engine to tdc on it so I could just install the dizzy and go, but im having trouble finding tdc on this engine. Nothing comes up in the window on the bellhousing that I've seen. Im pulling the cam shaft pulley cover and am going to look for an obvious spot there. The only thing I noticed though was that the engine is kinda difficult to turn over by hand. It is fine in some spots but others feel tight and like its getting caught up by something. Im not sure why its doing this.

glorifiedvw

Got the new dizzy installed last night and I finally got it to fire again. So the hall sendor was the issue. Thanks yodasfro. It still wouldn't stay running though. It would start and only stay running if I put my foot on the gas and rev'd it. So im thinking my ignition timing is set just a little off and I need to go threw and reinstall the dizzy a little different from how I did. Any tips on this procedure would be awesome. I read a few things about how to do it and it seems that you just set the engine to top dead center and insert the dizzy in to the head with the rotor facing the cut out next to the hall sendor plug. This I had read should put the engine at just about the right timing. Is this the correct procedure?