somekidwithanm4

Wow! Thanks everyone for the response. I've decided not to obtain one right now mainly because I already have one daily driver project car (my '91 200 20v avant) that needs work and it wouldn't be feasible. I wouldn't be able to give either car the attention it needs. But either way, A lot of the info on this post will be great for when the time is right!

paulpas

Speaking of fuel lines, what was your procedure to get the fuel return line from the FPR done? Unscrew it and take it to a shop and say "replace the steel braided line with a new one?"

TurboA6

I never replaced that line actually. I replaced the FPR, but that line is in surprisingly good condition. The previous owner of my car was pretty vigorous with maintenance. He actually replaced the airbags at the 10-year mark like they say you should, as I have a sticker on my visor that says the airbags were replaced in 4/03. I don't want to know what that cost.

paulpas

I found the part from another user here! Now I'm off to tune up, find the exhaust x-pipe, and figure out why the seat warmers don't work.

I basically need all the small electronic parts. I have a new CV boot, FPR, ABS control module, transmission dipstick (ecs tuning), brake bomb, and other odds and ends. Brakes might need replacing after having to stomp on them with the throttle stuck open, but once I get it reliable enough I'll try to get the rust fixed, then it's lowering and appearance mods!

I'm excited, but I am also willing to sell it to the right person. I'm more into Unicorn's than V8s with Automatics.

toml99

Airbag was just shy of $1000 when my car was 12 y.o.....I'd never had a car with an airbag so just laughed at that.....I don't recall anyone ever replacing one due to cost.....The fact that your previous owner did says wonders about his maintenance ethic, and now it's yours.....Good for you. Tom

toml99

Advanced Automotion should still sell the throttle bearings if that was cause of throttle sticking.....you can spray them and usually get them free'd up, but if they're bad, should replace.

Reinman

I just did a full timing belt service (3.6), lots of front suspension work, fuel pump and starter at 284,000 (automatic) and new tires, readying this one for the next 100K. I am going to drive it till it fails, then I am going to take another V8 I have in stock (w 126K on it) and stuff it in and see where we are at the end of that experiment...right now I have 294,000 on the ticker....

TurboA6

I've been driving mine more lately since it's just so damn enjoyable. The 22 year old transmission with 137,000 on it shifts better than my 2014 Outback 5-speed auto with 10,000 on it. My last tank averaged 19.6mpg, and this one is looking to average around 22mpg. I replaced the pass. side distributor seal so it no longer smells of burning oil, and with the wacky weather, I got to use my seat heaters and heated washer squirters this morning, and my A/C this afternoon, which blows nice and cold. It's solid and quiet, and even with 137,000 on it, the suspension is nice and tight and comfortable. I'm sure it could use some new struts, but you wouldn't know it. My only complaint is that I can't find performance tires in the factory size, so taking roundabouts at any speed is too much for its grand touring Michelins to handle. If I find a set of C5 A6 4.2 Fat Fives, I'll fix that.

Mister Bally

For the heated seat, usually the fine wire in the seat bottom element breaks close to the backrest area. Remove seat, remove lower seat cover, look for the burn mark where the element broke, splice together and use good electrical tape to cover the splice.

To verify the element is open, use an ohm meter and seat wiring diagram. You can access the seat element connector without removing the seat. There is a chance the dash switch is bad or a fuse is blown.