Several issues with 86 Audi 5000CS TQ
10-30-2011, 04:44 AM
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Several issues with 86 Audi 5000CS TQ
Hello all,
The Audi has finally returned from the body shop (drivers side fender, bumper, and frame straightened), but not with out some more issues:
No start: Turn the key, nothing. Have to apply power directly to the starter selonid terminal to engage starter. I have placed a VOM meter on the starter wire and verified that when the key is turned, voltage goes from 0 to .03v. Some of the lead wire was worn, so I replaced it but nothing. The only two things I can come up with are a bad key/ignition unit or the ghost of a car alarm that is causing an ignition cut off. How does one test the key ign to verify that it is functional?
ABS: Battery was briefly installed incorrectly (terminals reversed). Once installed correctly, the ABS light is now on. When the anti lock button is pressed, the the relay will click (relay bank near the drivers side kick panel), but the light will remain on. Think this is the relay, or the ABS module?
Overboost: When on the accelerator, the car is now always going into overboost protection (1.6 bar.) Makes it hard to merge when the fuel pump is shutting down. Suggestions on how to correct this?
TIA! Matt
The Audi has finally returned from the body shop (drivers side fender, bumper, and frame straightened), but not with out some more issues:
No start: Turn the key, nothing. Have to apply power directly to the starter selonid terminal to engage starter. I have placed a VOM meter on the starter wire and verified that when the key is turned, voltage goes from 0 to .03v. Some of the lead wire was worn, so I replaced it but nothing. The only two things I can come up with are a bad key/ignition unit or the ghost of a car alarm that is causing an ignition cut off. How does one test the key ign to verify that it is functional?
ABS: Battery was briefly installed incorrectly (terminals reversed). Once installed correctly, the ABS light is now on. When the anti lock button is pressed, the the relay will click (relay bank near the drivers side kick panel), but the light will remain on. Think this is the relay, or the ABS module?
Overboost: When on the accelerator, the car is now always going into overboost protection (1.6 bar.) Makes it hard to merge when the fuel pump is shutting down. Suggestions on how to correct this?
TIA! Matt
11-14-2011, 04:10 PM
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11-14-2011, 04:17 PM
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11-18-2011, 09:43 AM
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Min. voltage at ign. wire should be 8v, so it sounds like the ignition switch or entire wire is bad (or both).
Most times the Ignition Lock unit is the problem. When you turn the key, the lock mechanism will bind up and not let the ignition switch make full contact. Pull the ignition and key switch out, insert key, and see if car starts. There is a plastic pin bit holding ignition switch in, which also breaks, so check Bentley, or Sjm site for details. Lock unit is a PITA and will fail again, so easy fix is to install a starter switch with new wire to the starter.
ABS unit under the hood also has 2 relays inside. Try disconnecting battery, disconnect abs unit under drivers side back seat, and then re-connect.
Boost cut off could be from vacuum leaks at hoses or wastegate, or bad connection at MFTS switch below block radiator hose. Had a similar problem once, and it turned out to be a cracked spark plug, and i was only running on 4 cylinders.
Most times the Ignition Lock unit is the problem. When you turn the key, the lock mechanism will bind up and not let the ignition switch make full contact. Pull the ignition and key switch out, insert key, and see if car starts. There is a plastic pin bit holding ignition switch in, which also breaks, so check Bentley, or Sjm site for details. Lock unit is a PITA and will fail again, so easy fix is to install a starter switch with new wire to the starter.
ABS unit under the hood also has 2 relays inside. Try disconnecting battery, disconnect abs unit under drivers side back seat, and then re-connect.
Boost cut off could be from vacuum leaks at hoses or wastegate, or bad connection at MFTS switch below block radiator hose. Had a similar problem once, and it turned out to be a cracked spark plug, and i was only running on 4 cylinders.
11-19-2011, 11:43 PM
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Min. voltage at ign. wire should be 8v, so it sounds like the ignition switch or entire wire is bad (or both).
Most times the Ignition Lock unit is the problem. When you turn the key, the lock mechanism will bind up and not let the ignition switch make full contact. Pull the ignition and key switch out, insert key, and see if car starts. There is a plastic pin bit holding ignition switch in, which also breaks, so check Bentley, or Sjm site for details. Lock unit is a PITA and will fail again, so easy fix is to install a starter switch with new wire to the starter.
ABS unit under the hood also has 2 relays inside. Try disconnecting battery, disconnect abs unit under drivers side back seat, and then re-connect.
Boost cut off could be from vacuum leaks at hoses or wastegate, or bad connection at MFTS switch below block radiator hose. Had a similar problem once, and it turned out to be a cracked spark plug, and i was only running on 4 cylinders.
Most times the Ignition Lock unit is the problem. When you turn the key, the lock mechanism will bind up and not let the ignition switch make full contact. Pull the ignition and key switch out, insert key, and see if car starts. There is a plastic pin bit holding ignition switch in, which also breaks, so check Bentley, or Sjm site for details. Lock unit is a PITA and will fail again, so easy fix is to install a starter switch with new wire to the starter.
ABS unit under the hood also has 2 relays inside. Try disconnecting battery, disconnect abs unit under drivers side back seat, and then re-connect.
Boost cut off could be from vacuum leaks at hoses or wastegate, or bad connection at MFTS switch below block radiator hose. Had a similar problem once, and it turned out to be a cracked spark plug, and i was only running on 4 cylinders.
When the key is turned to "start", a few lights on the dash, climate control, and the red glow from the windows switches go dark; Makes me want to say that the ignition switch is working, but not 100% sure. Since an ignition is simply closing a circuit, is there a trick to see, say, if when the key is in the start position and I place an OHM meter across two specific terminals on the physical ignition switch?
Just to confirm, there are no relays that would effect starting, right? I have read that there is an alarm relay on newer 100's....
11-22-2011, 10:26 AM
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Relay #8 in the fusebox does affect starting. Called the A/T Relay, is linked to the ign. switch to prevent starting if shifter is in the wrong gear. I think this is what V8Q meant when he said "check starter relay".
Also the Load Reduction Relay connects to the ign. switch.
Window switch lights and footwell lights are on a relay timer, so they should go out. Others should stay lit. Instrument light relays are located above the glove box. Make sure the dimmer wheel on the clock swith is all the way over (sounds like a no-brainer, but i've missed this before).
Considering you just got the car back from the body shop, i would think some things got banged around more than usual. Ignition wire runs down drivers side fender, along intercooler, to starter. Maybe shop pinched the wire somewhere.
Check connection 50 (Red/Black wire) on the ignition switch with key on, to get volt reading. Check for continuity also. Wire goes from ignition switch, to a/t relay (auto trans ?) to small spade connection on starter.
Also the Load Reduction Relay connects to the ign. switch.
Window switch lights and footwell lights are on a relay timer, so they should go out. Others should stay lit. Instrument light relays are located above the glove box. Make sure the dimmer wheel on the clock swith is all the way over (sounds like a no-brainer, but i've missed this before).
Considering you just got the car back from the body shop, i would think some things got banged around more than usual. Ignition wire runs down drivers side fender, along intercooler, to starter. Maybe shop pinched the wire somewhere.
Check connection 50 (Red/Black wire) on the ignition switch with key on, to get volt reading. Check for continuity also. Wire goes from ignition switch, to a/t relay (auto trans ?) to small spade connection on starter.
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11-23-2011, 10:40 AM
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Relay #8 in the fusebox does affect starting. Called the A/T Relay, is linked to the ign. switch to prevent starting if shifter is in the wrong gear. I think this is what V8Q meant when he said "check starter relay".
Also the Load Reduction Relay connects to the ign. switch.
Window switch lights and footwell lights are on a relay timer, so they should go out. Others should stay lit. Instrument light relays are located above the glove box. Make sure the dimmer wheel on the clock swith is all the way over (sounds like a no-brainer, but i've missed this before).
Considering you just got the car back from the body shop, i would think some things got banged around more than usual. Ignition wire runs down drivers side fender, along intercooler, to starter. Maybe shop pinched the wire somewhere.
Check connection 50 (Red/Black wire) on the ignition switch with key on, to get volt reading. Check for continuity also. Wire goes from ignition switch, to a/t relay (auto trans ?) to small spade connection on starter.
Also the Load Reduction Relay connects to the ign. switch.
Window switch lights and footwell lights are on a relay timer, so they should go out. Others should stay lit. Instrument light relays are located above the glove box. Make sure the dimmer wheel on the clock swith is all the way over (sounds like a no-brainer, but i've missed this before).
Considering you just got the car back from the body shop, i would think some things got banged around more than usual. Ignition wire runs down drivers side fender, along intercooler, to starter. Maybe shop pinched the wire somewhere.
Check connection 50 (Red/Black wire) on the ignition switch with key on, to get volt reading. Check for continuity also. Wire goes from ignition switch, to a/t relay (auto trans ?) to small spade connection on starter.
Manual trans, so that should eliminate some issues. I'm guessing that the shop pinched the wire somewhere along the way during repair.
Worked 100% before drivers fender replacement, frame straightening,..... then this. Too odd
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