dan-needabimma

1986 5KTQ

This is part of my fuel tank replacement project...

3 roadblocks

1.) One of the six bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear differential stripped and I had to cut the head off. This meant the driveshaft couldn't be removed from the differential completely without the differential moving rear-ward so the remainder of the bolt could come free of the driveshaft. Being the wrench-turning amatuer that I am I forgot about this and dropped the whole rear end of the car straight to the ground without first supporting the differential and pulling the bolt free of the driveshaft. Result: the flange on the end of the driveshaft bent and seperated and jammed up the greased bearings REALLY tight.

Do I need another driveshaft or is there a way to somehow re-assemble the flange and bearing assembly?

2.) Because of rust I could not simply remove the differential from the crossmember (forward of the rear wheels) so I had to remove the whole crossmember. Also due to rust, I had to cut the rubber end off of the bushing that supports the crossmember on both sides. To install the crossmember again I will need to replace at least one of these bushings; probably should do both.

How do I remove the old bushings, burn them out with a torch? And once they are out how do I install the new ones? The bentley manual says to use something called "MP grease" and press them in by hand, but I can't imagine they will just slide into place; it feels much too tight like a pressed bushing does.

3.) The wonderful mechanic who replaced my fuel pump last year broke the nipple off of the fuel sending unit and looks to have secured the hose using superglue; this explains why my fuel gauge is off. Now that I have removed it a second time I had to break off the superglue. I tried to order a replacement sender from Audi but the part is obsolete...

Where can I find a used fuel sender that I know will work (online store suggestions)? Or, any suggestions on re-attaching the vacuum hose to the broken nipple besides superglue?




If anyone has run across these problems before or just has a good suggestion I would greatly appreciate it. And yes, the suggestion to push the car over a cliff has already been made and contemplated

Tom Serrago

First; I think the hose you are refering to is a vent hose to the carbon canister, and has nothing to do with the workings of the fuel sender float mechanism and electrical wiring.
The ham fisted mechanic prolly bent, or in some way messed up the float. The fuel gauge may need to be re-adjusted too. I was prolly just as ham fisted, and had to re-adjust my own fuel gauge after I r&r'd my fp a few months back, I was running out of gas when the gauge was still better than 1/4 tank! Everything works fine now.

Second; Try and find a small piece of plastic pipe/hose that can fit into the broken nipple pieces. Then instead of superglue, use JB Weld.

#2 option is to buy a good used unit from Force 5. clicky linky
#3 option is to pull one yourself at a local you-pull-it junk yard.

Hopefully the other roadblocks will open up.<ul><li><a href="http://www.force5auto.com/">http://www.force5auto.com/</a</li></ul>

Kneale Brownson

Might help if you identified the year and model.

Sounds like Chris Semple will be your friend.<ul><li><a href="http://www.force5auto.com/">Chris's website</a></li></ul>

dan-needabimma

Added info, thanks

CarIsScrewed

some things are better left to the pros even if you gotta pay

Tom Serrago

Yeah, there are times

5000CDQturbo

I did my fuel tank a few years ago ...it's a tough one for sure.