smcg3

I've got two known issues, both significant, but both can be controlled with how the car is driven. One, I've got a brake master cylinder that sticks when it gets hot, causing the brakes to drag. Posted about it probably 2 or 3 weeks ago, hasn't happened to me since, but I know there is the threat. Two, When the car is fully warmed up, the engine check light comes on over 3k rpm/.8 bar. I am fairly certain this can be attributed to knock sensors, but again, can be controlled with how I drive the car.

Here's the question. I'm going from Seattle to central California and back (about 2600 miles), leaving in a week, and I need to make a judgement call as to whether to fix this stuff or not. I really don't have much money right now, and doing both jobs (just parts) would be about $600. So... thoughts on whether it would be unwise to do the drive with things the way they are?

icon73

and not something else?

boxerfan

Just my thoughts, the brakes are definitely something I wouldn't mess with. Are you sure it is the MC? Sometimes the flex lines can detriorate and act like one-way valves. The carriers could also be hanging up on the guide pins... lube those up.

Knock indications at .8 bar? Of boost? i.e. 1.8 on the dash? You could be going lean. Changed your fuel filter lately? What about the pump? Messed with your CO setting at all?

I would be very hesitant to do the drive you are considering with those known conditions. That said I had no qualms about taking my 1989 Avant around Lake Michigan collecting parts a while back. But, I knew everything was working. I really tempted the Audi Gods by not taking a tool kit. I think they smiled upon me due to recent sacrifices!

RussB

Good point: could be intake air temperature sensor

RussB

$600 for parts is high. Look at aftermarket suppliers.

smcg3

it is definitely at about .8 bar (so still suction, not boost) but the most important factor is the 3000rpm. Doesn't matter the boost, light doesn't come on until exactly 3000, and once I'm past 3000rpm i can get the light to turn off by dropping below .8 bar on the digital readout.

It's an mc2, do I need to use the vag-com or can I do the fuse and flashes on the dash method too? It's got a relay in the fuse box that has space to plug a fuse in on top.

smcg3

Autohausaz wants $250 for the MC, and it looks like each of the two knock sensors runs for about $130 at best (some retailers are trying to get $220). So it's not quite $600... but it's still over $500. Are there any better sources for this stuff?

That being said, how completely foolish would it be to take any of these parts from a parts car? Are these kinds of parts that you just don't do that with, or is it acceptable?

icon73

Here is the link to SJM's site for all trouble shooting. Scott has been there and done that for just about everything from 10v to 20v engines.
HTH in your decision and trohbleshooting your check engine in a quick and reliable way.<ul><li><a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/trouble2.html">SJM, clik da a link fix your check engine light.</a></li></ul>