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FYI: cheap 'n easy rear disc brakes for the Coupe GT
Haven't run across this on the interwebs so I thought I would post it for other coupe owners...
I tried to work with the drums, I really did. New pads, cylinders, new bearings, new drums, new brake bars, new spring hardware, new adjuster wedges. And yet, couldn't keep the right side adjuster from constantly adjusting and seizing the brake. Eventually just pulled the adjuster out, but that can only be a temporary solution.
So anyway, was strolling through the Pick 'N Pull for other reasons and stopped dead in my tracks when I caught a look at the rear discs on a late 90's Jetta. The fricking axles bolt to the trailing arms with the same bolt pattern as the Coupe's axle to rear beam. So I grabbed the axles, discs, backing plate, and calipers. Sure enough it all bolts up to the Coupe and you get to keep the same ubiquitous VW 4 lug pattern.
Couple of notes if you do this swap:
1) Grab the soft brake lines off of the Jetta and use them to extend the Coupe's brake line about 4". You don't need to flare or modify anything, it all screws together. But you will need to bend the Coupe brake line around to get it to fit. I ended up zip tying it to the trailing arm in a few places to make sure it stays put.
2) Grab all of the e-brake parts including the Jetta cable housings. You can't use the Coupe e-brake cable because it's too short among other things. I picked up about 12 feet 1/8" x 19 strand 316 stainless cable from a boat supply shop (fisheriessupply.com) and put swages on the ends as stops. Hoop the cable back on itself in the swages to make it seriously stuck. You'll need to cut down the Jetta cable housing so the loop under the hub, go through the trailing arm, then meet the stop. Put the housing in a vise and cut with a hacksaw, it's the only way, finish off with a file. Wiggle the swaged ferule out of the end of the Coupe, strip back the plastic housing on the Jetta housing and it will fit in the ferule. I did some fancy trickery with shrink tub to get these ends to fit snug, too complicated to write about. I can post photos of all of this stuff if anyone is seriously interested.
3) Brake bias can be adjusted with the load sensitive bias valve that's attached to the rear beam by a spring. Just stomp on the brakes and make sure the rears don't lock up first. Move the adjuster nut/bolt forward to bias to the front brakes.
4) If you don't want to convert to the Jetta wheel studs, they back out of the disc with a 5.5 mm allen. If you do, grab 8 more for the front.
Total cost was around $70 with no new parts purchased. Up to you if you want rebuilt calipers, new pads, etc.
Cool! I've been meaning to do something like this on my Fox but the junkyard is a bit of a drive so I haven't gotten around to it. I have new shoes sitting in the box, but with one drum leaking and the prospect of having to roll around under the car to fiddle with them anyway, I'd really like to replace them with discs so it'll be painless in the future.
Good to see a nice writeup. Here's hoping the (older) Fox is somewhat similar to the CGT...
Just take a look at the back of your spindles. If it has the 4 bolts holding it on it's probably the same. The bolts are not in a square pattern, one side is wider than the other. I can post a pick this evening.
I'm finally looking into this seriously, after having replaced the wheel cylinders and shoes (the leaky cylinder finally let go completely) and remembering that disc brakes have never left me bloody...
I'm also going to do a 4x108 conversion so it's going to be a bit different, but is there any way you could snap a pic of your proportioning valve? I'm curious if it will work for my setup.
I actually don't even care if the discs work that great. In fact I drove around with the left rear drum basically non-functional for quite awhile. They're just so much easier to deal with...
-Rog
EDIT: It should also be noted that the Coupe GT went to the 4x108 hub pattern in '85, (though the FWD 4000 stayed 4x100), so you'd want the rear stubs and hubs from a B3 Audi if you have a facelift CGT.
The proportioning valve is the stock load sensing valve that is attached to the passenger side of the rear beam. It sends less brake to the rear as the body lifts up and away from the beam. The "load sensing" is adjusted via a lever attached to the beam.
Please help. I have B2 diesel from 1986, and put on rear disc from VW Golf MK3. I didnt understand how you manage brake cables...if you send me pics on email relota.renato@gmail.com i would appreciate that. Tnx in advance Cable problem
Originally Posted by 83coupegt
Haven't run across this on the interwebs so I thought I would post it for other coupe owners...
I tried to work with the drums, I really did. New pads, cylinders, new bearings, new drums, new brake bars, new spring hardware, new adjuster wedges. And yet, couldn't keep the right side adjuster from constantly adjusting and seizing the brake. Eventually just pulled the adjuster out, but that can only be a temporary solution.
So anyway, was strolling through the Pick 'N Pull for other reasons and stopped dead in my tracks when I caught a look at the rear discs on a late 90's Jetta. The fricking axles bolt to the trailing arms with the same bolt pattern as the Coupe's axle to rear beam. So I grabbed the axles, discs, backing plate, and calipers. Sure enough it all bolts up to the Coupe and you get to keep the same ubiquitous VW 4 lug pattern.
Couple of notes if you do this swap:
1) Grab the soft brake lines off of the Jetta and use them to extend the Coupe's brake line about 4". You don't need to flare or modify anything, it all screws together. But you will need to bend the Coupe brake line around to get it to fit. I ended up zip tying it to the trailing arm in a few places to make sure it stays put.
2) Grab all of the e-brake parts including the Jetta cable housings. You can't use the Coupe e-brake cable because it's too short among other things. I picked up about 12 feet 1/8" x 19 strand 316 stainless cable from a boat supply shop (fisheriessupply.com) and put swages on the ends as stops. Hoop the cable back on itself in the swages to make it seriously stuck. You'll need to cut down the Jetta cable housing so the loop under the hub, go through the trailing arm, then meet the stop. Put the housing in a vise and cut with a hacksaw, it's the only way, finish off with a file. Wiggle the swaged ferule out of the end of the Coupe, strip back the plastic housing on the Jetta housing and it will fit in the ferule. I did some fancy trickery with shrink tub to get these ends to fit snug, too complicated to write about. I can post photos of all of this stuff if anyone is seriously interested.
3) Brake bias can be adjusted with the load sensitive bias valve that's attached to the rear beam by a spring. Just stomp on the brakes and make sure the rears don't lock up first. Move the adjuster nut/bolt forward to bias to the front brakes.
4) If you don't want to convert to the Jetta wheel studs, they back out of the disc with a 5.5 mm allen. If you do, grab 8 more for the front.
Total cost was around $70 with no new parts purchased. Up to you if you want rebuilt calipers, new pads, etc.
01-05-2014, 06:25 PM
FYI: cheap 'n easy rear disc brakes for the Coupe GT
