Can someone help me out. I'm thinking about new springs (H&R or Eibach) and one guy told me I don't necessarily need to get a realignment afterwards because of the way they install the new springs. He said that there might be some negative camber. Can someone explaint this to me? I've been told I definately need a realignment when getting the new springs. Which way is the best way to go?

The A4 has a four-link suspension. The changing of springs should not affect camber as the shock/spring mount is not a part of the alignment. This is the same reason cross bars do not improve the suspension.<p>The only exception would be if the geometry is not constant camber. This would require a virtual center in the vertical plane, not easy to engineer and keep unsprung weight down. The suspension does have a virtual center on the turning angles. Check it out next time its on the lift. Very cool.<p>Keith

I just had my A4 aligned 9 months after having H&R springs and Koni shocks installed. The alignment made a HUGE difference in my car. There is a major change in the suspension geometry caused by the new suspension, I dont know who started the original rumor that it didnt, that I also beleived, but it is not true. For example, my rear left was running about -2.0 degrees of camber while the right side was running less than -1.0 degress. The camber had to be adjusted to even out both sides so that I am now running about -1.25 degrees all around. The camber can only be evened by shifting the subframe, it cannot be changed independently. I also had to have my Toe on the front dramatically changed as I was exhibiting a large amount of uneven Toe Out. This was very bad. Now that everything is fixed the car feels more stable and handling is much better. I would say that it is needed and very much worth the money.<br>If you think about how lowering affects the car, it will almost certainly change the camber to a more negative setting, this is half of the point of lowering a car.<br>Hope this helps,<br>Chris<ul><li><a href="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9179/index.html">My A4 page</a></li></ul>

OOPS! I was responding to camber on the front axle. I forgot to ask if it were Quattro or Front-Trak. BIG difference there. I see you didn't mention camber, although it is adjustable. You will need adjusting of the steering but not suspension.<p>Toe adjustment is possible by the home mechanic very easily, if you have the patience and good tools. A dark garage and one of those laser pointers plus a brush up on high school geometry is all it takes. Just remember to measure before to get a good idea of what feels right. A nice cigar makes it even easier :=) but smoke it outside the car.<p>Tire wear/scuffing is another, more precise method although it takes time. You will get it right this way. What you are looking for is even removal of tire crayon markings on the tread. Make sure you are doing an even number of turns, right and left (and on even ground) Otherwise you will end up with an alignment more suited for high bank oval racing.<p>Cheers<p>Keith<br>