My R1's are on their last event and they are mounted on the 5 spoke 16" alloys.<p>Would a 15" wheel and tire package be lighter than the 16" set? The tire would be a 205/50/15 R compound on the 8 spoke alloys.<p>Diameter differences would be minor, if at all. I have never reached top speed.<br>
12-27-1998, 06:36 PM
I would stick with the 16" wheels and tires. I am gonna get a set myself and share Corey S's old 5 spokers for track and autocross events.<p>Steve S.<br>97 2.8QM
12-28-1998, 08:06 AM
CHEAPER !!!!!!! (I hope people are getting used to my frugality, inspired by a significant amount of Scot blood) - unless you already own a set of 16" wheels, which you already do...so....maybe you should just stick with the 16's - <p>Isn't that great advice ?<p>I always go with the smallest diameter tire, 'cause tires are easier to change than gearing. And - narrower tires are faster on long, fast tracks where rolling resistance becomes a factor (i.e. the Glen, RA, Sebring)
12-28-1998, 09:37 AM
12-28-1998, 10:33 AM
And as you rave a Volvo, do you remember a guy from that area that used to race a Volvo 144 years ago? We used to be friends way back, but I haven't been there in over 15 years, and my memory is fading.
12-28-1998, 02:37 PM
15" tires are cheaper than the 16".<br>I'll stick with the 16" 5 spokes. Someone on Ebay has a set of 15" for auction and last check it was $75 for the set. And trade the wheels for some suspension work.<p>What I'd gain in weight would probably be lost in traction.<br>
12-28-1998, 09:21 PM
I know at least 10-15 people racing 140 and 540 series Volvo's - but I didn't have the Volvo disease the last time I was at RA. I used to be into more normal race cars, like Loti...<p>John/TSR<br>(my 142E now suspension-free & driveline-free, pending new rear brake prop valve, modified fuel injection pressure control system, rebuilt rear axle/Torsen, & even new/old bumpers)
12-28-1998, 09:44 PM
Could it have been Lester Fahlgren???<p>Also, do you remember some guys in Mini Coopers? I think their name was Green(something). Or do you remeber Team Tamborine (Mazda RX3)???<p>But I am SURE you remember Jerry Hanson!
12-29-1998, 06:24 AM
12-29-1998, 07:57 AM
I know...its time to get the Mustang ready instead. BTW, Big O wants to talk to you<br>about Mustangs...he has a 69 Mach I with 375 bhp. Email him if you get a chance...<br>"firstname.lastname@example.org".<p>Hey, I've been doing some modifications to suspension again....that file sure does<br>come in handy. Not!<p>Steve S.<br>97 2.8QM
Gary @ ronal
12-29-1998, 11:11 AM
You might consider a 15x7.5" wheel, using a 225/50/15 tire. Smaller overall diameter, slightly more low end "torque", 225 width over 7.5" is adequate, right pressure, -- should give a pretty good handling package. Might be an interesting comparison over a 225/45/17 setup. Further, the reduction of weight might make a difference. Interesting???
12-29-1998, 11:28 AM
First of all money (as TSR mentioned) is a key consideration. If you have lots, and the class allows it I would go for a real lightweight racing rim 16-8(or 8.5). That way you could mount a 245-55.<p>I like the stock rim. I would put a 225 width tire on there for sure, esp. if you can still find R1's or have the bucks for TA's. A 50 aspect ratio is still pretty tall and allows for small bumps and driver error. <p>A 15 can get you some serious gearing advantages with a shorter tire, if your courses run that way. A fun way to play at this is to get a set of 15 steels and run slightly used ax tires. The back of grassroots motorsports has about 5 places to get some. The tires are cheap and you can play around for almost no expense. At national level competition obviously you want to go all out within the rules. But for locals just have fun learing the limits of the car. Any R tire, of virtually any size, will be fast enough to stay with the competition. Then you can work on yourself, which is the real limiting factor for most of us...<p>Take care,<p>Erik
12-29-1998, 08:39 PM
I guess they've learned to look out for big square Swedish Iron - <p>I've changed from '74 5MPH Bumpers to earlier, lighter ones (off a '71, I think), which saved me about 60 lbs., including the HEAVY mount bars. I fab'ed some new mounts out of some 13 gauge round tubing I scarfed out of the local metal scrap & salvage shop - a whole lot lighter. Nearly free, too. Also ditched the passenger seat, which we're allowed to do in '99.<p>Also re-routing the fuel injection bypass valve to someplace I can reach it - I'm gonna make a knob for it so I can tune mixture (Bosch D-Jet, so it's pretty primative) while I have it screwed down hard, by watching the EGT. (A great idea, but watch for the mushroom cloud in the East next spring !)<p>And, putting a coil-over weight jacker in the right front, and moving the fuel pumps and fuel surge/purge tank to the right rear, to fix a balance problem in the suspension. If this doesn't work, I'm gonna sink this pig in the Atlantic and hope it attracts fish. It'll be the Volvo Reef....AND, I changed the Panhard bar mounts.<p>God, I hate Volvos. If only they weren't so fast...<p>J/TSR