I have the entire (well, as much as I need to) system dismantled but i can't get the rotor off. I sprayed the brake dust/off stuff but that didn't help. I tried hitting the rotor (replacing it so don't care if it gets damaged) at least twenty, maybe thirty times with a hammer but all that did was loosen brake dust. The back side of the rotor is CAKED with brake dust, it's on there like cement. Unfortunately I've never done a brake job before so I don't know what the hub looks like. I'm not sure if the BFS (Big f... screw) in the middle of the hub that the rotor goes around comes off or if the rotor is just supposed to slide off of it away from the wheel hub once I take off the carrier bolts. I'm not sure what to do now... I really need to be able to drive my car tomorrow. :(

Help?

Hi, you are having a problem, so here you can do the this way.
You can use the WD-40 to small hole between lug bolts hole,spray small amount of WD-40 and wait few minutes and use the hammer (larger one better) and bang just you try before. In this way, you have to put one lug bolt for preventing from injure or for safety work. Good Luck ! x19

Wait, I'm confused, I put a large amount of the brake dust stuff on it to break it up, I should be using WD40 you're saying? I didn't try to spray into where the lug nuts go, maybe I'm misunderstanding. On the picture below, where am I spraying? My main concern is whether or not there's anything else still securing the rotors or if it's literally the brake dust accumlation that's cemented it onto the hub. I was just at AutoZone and they told me I would have to use some special tool to "unlock" the rotor from the HUB (and I zoomed in on the original pic below there). The only thing that he could possibly be talking about is a small star shaped screw/hex tool with (additional) ridges on it that's on the mid right of the rotor in the picture where there would be a lug nut hole. I felt behind the rotor and I'm pretty sure the end of that screw comes out the other side of the rotor just at the tip but doesn't attach to anything.

I'm sure you're aware that the rotors have factory assembly line retaining screws that must first be removed? If you're having trouble with said screws a hand impact driver is the recommended tool. Thereafter use copper grease (aka anti-seize paste) or stainless steel replacement screws.

Many manufacturers only use rotor retention screws on the front rotors (rears being held on by wheel lugs), again just for ease of assembly.

Ok, so that small screw "is" the screw I need to remove then? The star shaped one that some type of special hex tool would fit into? I didn't see this on any of the DIY guides which is why this is tripping me up. I can see on the other side of the rotor and there doesn't appear to be anything that the little star shaped screw is attached to. The other 4 extra holes in my rotor have nothing in them, just indentations so there's nothing to be done there...

Once I get this first wheel figured out, the rest is cake.

I'm sure you're aware that the rotors have factory assembly line retaining screws that must first be removed?

BTW, I didn't know this, that wasn't part of the DIY guide :(

Ok, I'm off to the store to get a hand impact driver and a new rotor screws and replacement brake fluid...

This is getting kinda pricey. The bright side, my next brake job will be very cheap, parts only. :)

Exactly. The experience you're gaining is priceless and the short term costs incurred will well amortize over your lifetime, not to mention the self-satisfaction.

Well done! :)

Ok, I'm off to the store to get a hand impact driver and a new rotor screws and replacement brake fluid...

This is getting kinda pricey. The bright side, my next brake job will be very cheap, parts only. :)

It's called a Torx screw (more often used on European vehicles), optimally necessitating a torx screwdriver or torx bit for the hand impact driver. I've actually installed replacement stainless steel screws that are more often Phillips head. Again, you really don't need the screws at all but they do help to keep the rotors in place until you get the wheels back on, which is why they're installed on the assembly line.

The hand impact driver rotates on impact (thanks to internal springs), so all you need to do is hold it firmly in place and strike briskly. "The right tool for the job." ;)

Ok, so that small screw "is" the screw I need to remove then? The star shaped one that some type of special hex tool would fit into? I didn't see this on any of the DIY guides which is why this is tripping me up. I can see on the other side of the rotor and there doesn't appear to be anything that the little star shaped screw is attached to. The other 4 extra holes in my rotor have nothing in them, just indentations so there's nothing to be done there...

Once I get this first wheel figured out, the rest is cake.

Spray some liquid wrench on it let it sit for a little while and then beat the heck out of it!! You're replacing the rotors so dont be afraid to be rough on it!

Good luck!

Jason

I'm a noob at this, I've been documention all my pain and once I'm done, I'm going to make a new DIY guide for noobs. If someone had told me everything I just had to learn, I'd have been done with three brake jobs by now... Seriously, I've spent at least 16h on this project between running back into the house to google a new problem, running back and forth to autozone, calling my dad and every mechanically inclined person I know, etc and I'm still on the first rotor, ick. *raise your hand if you're a noob* :)

On a side note, I spent 1.25h drilling the Torx screw yesterday without being able to break it. My buddy told me to buy a new bit as it probably died and I shouldn't be using a diamond tipped bit for metal anyway (and to also buy proper oil lubricant for the bit vs water). I ended up going with his suggestion and buying a DeWalt Cryo-Treated Cobalt bit (x2) that's specifically made for cutting metal (the other bit was designed to cut ceramic tile). I also ended up breaking a smaller bit after learning the hard way not to lean into the bit to apply pressure (small bits will just snap!). Luckily I was wearing my safety goggles as the bit flew into my face.

Oh the lessons I've learned so far. :)

I'm a noob at this, I've been documention

*documenting, I've been documenting...

LOL (sic). Frustrating I'm sure, but as you cite you're learning a lot and future endeavors will be far easier/quicker. We all had to learn at some point.

I'm a noob at this, I've been documention all my pain and once I'm done, I'm going to make a new DIY guide for noobs. If someone had told me everything I just had to learn, I'd have been done with three brake jobs by now... Seriously, I've spent at least 16h on this project between running back into the house to google a new problem, running back and forth to autozone, calling my dad and every mechanically inclined person I know, etc and I'm still on the first rotor, ick. *raise your hand if you're a noob* :)

On a side note, I spent 1.25h drilling the Torx screw yesterday without being able to break it. My buddy told me to buy a new bit as it probably died and I shouldn't be using a diamond tipped bit for metal anyway (and to also buy proper oil lubricant for the bit vs water). I ended up going with his suggestion and buying a DeWalt Cryo-Treated Cobalt bit (x2) that's specifically made for cutting metal (the other bit was designed to cut ceramic tile). I also ended up breaking a smaller bit after learning the hard way not to lean into the bit to apply pressure (small bits will just snap!). Luckily I was wearing my safety goggles as the bit flew into my face.

Oh the lessons I've learned so far. :)

i do not believe there is a set screw - certainly not on my C5 S6 nor my C4 A6.

I'm actually surprised it is not spinning freely - mine do that whenever i try to line up the lug nuts :-)

generally a hammer does work. but - you hit it squarely near the center where it (must be) bonded to the hub.

At worst you may need to heat it with a torch so it will expand.

G

Unfortunately I'm short a torch so I'll have to do this the hard way. I did just now get the screw to break. Apparently I needed a bigger hammer as I drilled out most of the shaft of the bolt 3/4" down but I just didn't hit the rotor hard enough to make the screw break (the drill caught while I was trying to drill sideways and it took the screw head off). Apparently I was also drilling into the rotor as well (and not very successfully at that, that's some hard material!).

Also, the bit I got is by Rigid, incase anyone tries to find the one I used and can't (because it doesn't exist).

Rotor #1 off, now to get my wire brush attachment for my cordless and get the rust off the hub.

Thanks all for your input, I hope this thread helps others!

i do not believe there is a set screw - certainly not on my C5 S6 nor my C4 A6

On the A4 B7 the screw is there. I'll upload a pic later today when I get at least the fronts done.


I'm actually surprised it is not spinning freely - mine do that whenever i try to line up the lug nuts :-)

It was spinning freely but it wouldn't dislodge from the hub. Since I've never done this before, I didn't know what the hub looked like or how it was fastened. I'll add this pic in my noob DIY as well so picture oriented people like myself can understand what's happening. :)