It's taken awhile to gather the materials and tools to replace my rear diff axle seals, but today I started the job. After studying the PDF that Fred Munro published, I saw the seal installation tool that he used. Being a machinist, I built my own using an old 1 inch dia bolt and some Aluminum. I started on the Right side and all went well. Used the nut on my seal driver to seat the seal at the correct distance, (.25inch), and upon disassembly of the tool made a horrifying discovery. (see pic)

My tool will not unthread from the differential. Appears the axle flange bolt threads into a threaded ring inside the spider gears that floats. As I turn my bolt, it just turns with me. I've spent the last two hours fishing inside thru the drain hole trying to lock the thing so I can turn out my bolt, but no success. At this point, I'm just sharing my mistake while I mentally prepare to drop the diff and work on it on the bench.

Is there anything I can do to free this bolt sans dropping the diff? I took a 1-8 x 8in bolt and cut the head off and tapped the end with M8x1.25. Then I loctited a set screw into it for duty. Machine work was done in an engine lathe and is square and true. It's frustrating because I was just copying the picture in Mr. Munro's write up.

Thanks for reading this.
Frustrated,
Mark

Too bad, was a good plan till the nuts spin. Here's a shot from Kate. Dropping the diff isn't that bad of a job. Opening the diff is easy as well.

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/YqaRK.jpg" alt="" title="Hosted by imgur.com" />

You may get it if you can position the diff to the open side of the spider carrier (differential housing). A flat driver between the #9 pin and the nut might work. Long shot, but what have you to lose.

That's what I was trying to do. I just couldn't get enough friction with the screw driver/prybar to get the thread to release. Guess I'll drop the diff and investigate.

M

Sorry man, hope it goes well.

It wasn't easy, the custom exhaust is welded in place and will not come out. Just had to push it off to the side to wiggle the diff out of place. Once on the bench, I was able to dissasemble the miter gears and get a hold of the threaded ring to remove the tool I had made. Then I noticed the source of the original issue. The bearing race on the left side has a dark streak in it indicating some heat at some time in its life. I'm thinking of replacing them both but wanted to share the picture with the forum and see if the group agrees with me. Since I'm staring at the bearing it won't be any easier to replace then now.

Thanks.

Not a bad plan. Generally seals fail due to bearing wear. Given what you've found, I'd change it. Seeing that you had to fight with it to get it out, it's pretty cheap insurance to change the bearings. Good that you got it.

Yep, I agree. I changed them last night; cheap too(less then $40). The one pictured had pits and evidence of galling. Next I'll use some red RTV to seal up the case then wait for the 034 parts to arrive. Diff mounts were the last thing on the car that hasn't been upgraded to stiffer components.
Cheers.

Nice, now you'll have a tight rear end......little snicker over here.