Lease is running out in Dec., and I just love my car, in fact I'll probably purchase it at the end of the lease. It's in perfect condition thanks to my religious practice of pampering and waxin' :)<p>One question: How much $$$ can I shave off the pre-determined price that was on the lease contract? My assumption is the dealer would want to let it go cheap to a customer rather than having to refurbish it, keep it on its lot and try to sell it again. Would anyone want to share their experiences? Thanks a bunch!<p>Happy Thanksgiving!<br>Steve Y.

Steve Y.: Now let's take a look at this. The dealer would rather cut the buyout and sell you<br>the car rather than washing it, proudly parking<br>it in front of his store, and turning it for a <br>quick $2000.-$3000. profit? First of all, y'all, the FINANCIAL INSTITUTION (VCI,Chase,First Union)<br>determines how much, if any, negotiation of the<br>buyout takes place. If you leased an A4 through<br>VCI, they will not discount the buyout. Your chances of getting a break are slightly better if you are with a smaller, local bank, although they<br>are usually not nearly as competitive when you are<br>leasing your new car, so most Audi leases are VCI.<br>If you don't buy your car, the originating dealer <br>gets the next crack at it. VCI offers the car to <br>the dealer for EXACTLY what you could have bought<br>it for. If the dealer passes, VCI takes the car to<br>auction. The bottom line is, if you are finishing<br>up a '96 A4 Quattro, the dealer, or VCI, are going<br>to make a profit because they have held so well.<br>If your car is FWD, it's probably = or < the <br>residual. BUT, the financial institutions have<br>INSURANCE COVERAGE against the residual deficit,<br>and the underwriter REQUIRES the car to be sold at<br>open auction if the lessee or dealer do not buy it. The insurance premium is built into their expense structure. <p>See?<p><br>

Buying your car at the end of the lease involves <br>the same info. gathering as when you originally<br>got it: How much do I have to pay? Is that > or<br>< wholesale or retail value? If your buyout is anywhere south of retail, and you relly like the car, consider keeping it. You know the car, and<br>you've maintained it to the nines. Consider, thogh, that due to the A4's stellar value retention and today's sporty interest rates, I am<br>seeing many people coming out of '96 A4 leases and<br>sliding right into a new lease for the same, and in some cases LOWER, payment. More HP, Audi Advantage, new car smell, same $$$'s? It happens<br>every day.

You have a fixed purchase price, not a Fair Market Value Purchase Option. It's contractual so I doubt any negotiation can take place. This may be in your best interest if your actual fixed purchase price is less than what you could actually buy your car for in the open market (fair market value).<br>In my case, my fixed purchase price is $5,500 less than it would sell for if stock even with the miles (per Kelley Blue Book). (With mods. it is worth much more now......but I knew I was going to buy it so that's why I did the mods. any way.) <br>I am in the leasing business so I deal in residuals, interest rates and calculations all day long.<br>You can't negotiate a fixed price, but there is some room for negotiation in interest rates. Many banks have different rates....and they want your business. It may be a small % but every penny counts.<br>I've been shopping financial institutions for the best rate. Say that Chase quotes you one rate, you can get another quote from another bank or loan agency and so on to find the best rate. If you are able to get a better rate (in writing) from another lending institution, you can always go back to your current lienholder and negotiate their rate down. If they decline, you just go with the other institution to buy out the lease from your lienholder.<br>-Cathleen