Q5 Trailor Hitch - Installed and it looks great! [Archive]

tmiele

08-19-2009, 01:10 PM

I stopped by my dealer today to clarify the trailer hitch install. He told me that there is a special Audi Q5 lower bumper cover with the proper cutout for the hitch (and yes, it needs to be painted).
I looked at a couple of Q7’s w/hitches and they seem to have a nice clean look to them. All the Q7s on his lot had a non-painted, gray colored lower bumper cover, so I’m sure the hitch is a cheaper install on the Q7 vs. the Q5. The Q7’s piece is smaller and it doesn’t need to be painted.

So the $1500 hitch/install is now quoted at $1900. This seems like a lot of money. I had a hitch installed on a Lexus R330 and an Acura MDX but I don’t remember what the costs were for each. It would be interesting to get up to date pricing on what the completion charges for their hitches.

One more thing…… about dealers installing hitches.

When I had the Lexus hitch installed at the Lexus dealer, they never hooked up the lights – the first time I wanted to tow my boat to the lake on a beautiful sunny Sunday – no trailer lights! Back to the dealer on Monday – and of course the dealer could not believe it was his mistake (he actually argued with me that it must be the trailer).

One week after the Acura dealer installed a trailer hitch on my MDX I noticed a hole in the front bumper cover near the fog light – I thought I got hit with a rock! No, the trailer installation included plugging in some wires near the fog light and he didn’t properly reinstall the light bulb in the fog light and it burnt a hole in the bumper cover. I had to have the whole front bumper cover replaced and repainted.

Let’s hope the Audi dealers do a better job installing these hitches. I’ll find out tomorrow.

MCNIERNEYC

08-19-2009, 02:08 PM

So the $1500 hitch/install is now quoted at $1900. This seems like a lot of money. I had a hitch installed on a Lexus R330 and an Acura MDX but I don’t remember what the costs were for each. It would be interesting to get up to date pricing on what the completion charges for their hitches.

There is no way to directly compare. Here is my experience:

1998 Toyota 4Runner - hitch came standard but electronic module was $200 + install
2000 Landrover Discovery II - hitch standard, no extras required
2003 Landrover Discovery II - hitch standard, no extras required
2006 Range Rover Sport - hitch standard but special removable receiver required at a cost of $500

When a hitch is standard, there is no way to determine how much is included in the price of the vehicle. As someone stated earlier, most people probably don't put hitches on cross-overs, which is why they are not standard equipment.

msj

08-19-2009, 06:34 PM

I had my hitch installed at port hope it will look decent at the cutout. Price tag definitely is better then dealer install, cost @ port as quoted is $800.

kleinbus

08-19-2009, 07:13 PM

.... As someone stated earlier, most people probably don't put hitches on cross-overs, which is why they are not standard equipment.

I just installed hitch by myself and you do not need new bumper skin so any dealer who says you need new one is lying and trying to cash more money!

I bought mine from my dealer no matter I found few online about 50-100 bucks cheaper, the catch is that you need to go back to dealer and get car updated with new software and depending where you bought the hitch, they may or may not make you pay the one hour labour that it takes to complete the update.

Anyways, back to the hitches....

I had hitch on my 2500 Dodge Ram Mega Cab B U T non of those "bling bling" things Audi hitch control box does....

Do I like this costly towing thingie? No but on the other hand, I could twist this around and inside out and say, I'm just poor whiner as I can't afford to throw bunch of bills against the dealer face and say "shut up what the heck are you still standing there? with that amount of money you money sucking bastard should be running and hitch should be installed in no time"

http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif

ttr2002

08-20-2009, 05:07 PM

I just installed hitch by myself and you do not need new bumper skin so any dealer who says you need new one is lying and trying to cash more money!

I bought mine from my dealer no matter I found few online about 50-100 bucks cheaper, the catch is that you need to go back to dealer and get car updated with new software and depending where you bought the hitch, they may or may not make you pay the one hour labour that it takes to complete the update.

Anyways, back to the hitches....

I had hitch on my 2500 Dodge Ram Mega Cab B U T non of those "bling bling" things Audi hitch control box does....

Do I like this costly towing thingie? No but on the other hand, I could twist this around and inside out and say, I'm just poor whiner as I can't afford to throw bunch of bills against the dealer face and say "shut up what the heck are you still standing there? with that amount of money you money sucking bastard should be running and hitch should be installed in no time"

http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif

How much time to install and how hard was it to remove the bumper cover?

What is the reprogram do? Is it for the back up sensors (turn them off and on?) or for the side assist?

DavidSG

08-21-2009, 10:49 AM

I had my hitch installed at port hope it will look decent at the cutout. Price tag definitely is better then dealer install, cost @ port as quoted is $800.

When do you expect delivery? Would very much be interested to see a picture. I was supposed to take delivery of my Q5 this week but there was a mix-up at port and another dealer snagged it away, so I have to wait until mid-September for the next one to come in. Thinking about getting a hitch installed at port.

jhu321

08-21-2009, 12:51 PM

When do you expect delivery? Would very much be interested to see a picture. I was supposed to take delivery of my Q5 this week but there was a mix-up at port and another dealer snagged it away, so I have to wait until mid-September for the next one to come in. Thinking about getting a hitch installed at port.

davidsg,

was your car a black prestige + luxury? my dealer just told me that somehow i got moved up in line and now will get my car next week. I didn't take your car did i?

-john

DavidSG

08-21-2009, 01:29 PM

davidsg,

was your car a black prestige + luxury? my dealer just told me that somehow i got moved up in line and now will get my car next week. I didn't take your car did i?

-john

Nope. deep sea blue/cinnamon brown premium plus + nav + 19" wheels. Someone in New Jersey stole it! Upside is that they found me a car with same options plus B&O for same price, so I'm getting a free upgrade out of this.

kleinbus

08-21-2009, 06:33 PM

How much time to install and how hard was it to remove the bumper cover?

What is the reprogram do? Is it for the back up sensors (turn them off and on?) or for the side assist?

Took about 5 hours and with right tools it is not bad, most important is long tube type 10mm socket (meaning 1" long socket as bumper bolts where you have to unscrew nuts are feaking long, the way normal 1/4 drive socket does not even get close).

I installed my hitch and checked can I activate it with my VAG-COM but it didn't allow me to change few settings and as I knew I would need to take it to dealer for update, I left activation for them.

Update scan was about one inch think pile of prints so no wonder it took hour to download but it also wiped off all my settings, needle sweep - bright led - non winking - blah blah. When I came home, first thing was to plug laptop in and turn them on again :D

Update covers all Q5 models and reconfigures more things than I know, all I know it affects engine, tranny, brake controller (abs, esp) and reverse sensors if equipped. I assume it also affects alarm (as it did in VW Tiguan) but I have to test that later...
For example, when I tried to activate hitch via vag-com and couldn't complete it, once I turned power on I got ESP fault warning. Fault warning went off only after I unplugged the trailer module (at least the trailer controller is right behind the right side trunk panel door)

If someone haves true mechanical skills and is really going to do it by themselves and wants more precise instruction for hitch then say so and in few days I will post it....

tmiele

08-25-2009, 03:09 PM

Loophole

08-25-2009, 03:47 PM

the hitch looks great and like it was designed for the vehicle, not just added on. But $1640 to get it to look that way? :eek:

If the trim piece were cut out to fit over the protruding receiver, would it otherwise fit? Maybe something like this?

edwyun

08-25-2009, 07:54 PM

Just got my Q back from the dealer. Total cost was $1640 including the painting of the new bumper cover. As you can see by the photos the removable cover may have be designed for a re-tractable hitch.

Nice! But at that cost, I dunno for my particular application.

Does the cost require bumper exchange (i.e., dealer keeps your old bumper in exchange for new one) or do you keep your original bumper in addition to the new one that's installed?

DavidSG

08-25-2009, 07:59 PM

Is that an entire new lower bumper or did they cut the existing bumper and provide a painted cover for just the area that was cut out? It does look better with that entire area cut out rather than the smaller cut out - just makes the look more symmetrical and cleaner, imo. I guess that is how it would look it if I get the hitch installed at port. And I take it you can't use the cover with the hitch installed - would be ideal if they provided a cover with a hole cut out that we could use when not using the hitch.

puregreddy

08-25-2009, 09:59 PM

I just checked my Q5, and this may be old news, but I have an '09 Premium Plus with S-line package (August 5, 2009 build date) and it came with the rear bumper cover pre-cut, so I assume I won't have to pay the $1500-1900, instead just pay for the price of the hitch hardware.....

Maybe this is part of the S-line package?

puregreddy

08-25-2009, 10:01 PM

correction to my above post: May 8, 2009 build date......

tmiele

08-26-2009, 07:26 AM

The lower bumper was replaced with a new one part that has the cutout in place and the removable cover plate that attaches over the cutout. It looks like the lower bumper piece was designed so you could cover up the hitch area when not in use and then just twist the two black locks on the cover plate to remove it when you wanted to use the hitch. A great design if it came standard on the Q5. And once you install the hitch, the cover plate is useless. I looked at the cover plate again to see if it you could make a cutout to fit it over the hitch receiver - but the way the hitch is designed, I can't see how you could do it without cutting a big hole in the cover to get it in place.

Audi could have made the cover with a bulge in it, so you could cover up the whole hitch area when not in use. I t would make for a nice clean look, fitting for the Q5.

And no, I didn't get the old lower bumper part back.

Now I have to wait until next weekend to see how the Q handles pulling a small trailer.

edwyun

08-26-2009, 08:02 AM

And no, I didn't get the old lower bumper part back.

that is really odd.

msj

08-26-2009, 11:09 AM

This looks like the European lower bumper skin. Europe has a retractable hitch. The cover plate makes no sense for the NA market.
I hope to take delivery of my Q5 this week, will post a picture of the port installed hitch.

jdanek1

08-26-2009, 05:11 PM

I hope to take delivery of my Q5 this week, will post a picture of the port installed hitch.

That would be great.

I'm looking to buy a Q5 in the next couple weeks. I don't want the dealer cutting up the factory bumper. Hopefully the port installed hitch uses the lower bumper cover with the proper cutout already fabricated.

Loophole

08-26-2009, 08:06 PM

and only if this $850 option was specified in your factory order. Port installation and dealer installation should look very much the same, but dealer installation will cost you more, in the $1200 to $1600 range. Both port and dealer installation will result in a bumper cut that may be a little rough, but several owners have said the result is "fine" or "great" and is low enough not to be too visible. If you don't like the way your installation looks, you must depend on the integrity of your dealer to correct it to your satisfaction. Port and dealer installations and precise shape of the bumper cutout may vary somewhat due to the skill level of the person doing the cutting. For dealer installation, you can pay your dealer an additional amount to order and paint a second bumper skin with a factory cutout, however the neat trim cover supplied with this bumper will not fit over the North American hitch.

IMO, although Audi brags about the towing capacity of the Q5, they have made hitch installation much more troublesome, difficult and expensive than other luxury brands.

Your opinion may vary.

FASTandSLOW

08-26-2009, 09:36 PM

Well stated, Loophole. :-)

dwdm

08-27-2009, 09:08 AM

x330i

08-27-2009, 09:11 AM

msj

08-27-2009, 10:01 AM

How long does the port installed hitch add to the delivery time (as opposed to w/o hitch)?

The hitch software issue was resolved on 8/17, car hit dealership yesterday 8/26. My Q was already there waiting for the hitch, so we're talking 9 days inclusive trucking it to the dealer.

MCNIERNEYC

08-27-2009, 11:24 AM

I hate to be the one to say "the emperor has no clothes..." but that special new bumper cover looks like the one that came from the factory only with a REALLY big cutout and a clever cover that's unusable!
Dealer scam?

It's not really a scam. The cover is the one used on Euro spec Q5's that have a hitch installed. The Euro hitch ball folds up out of sight into the bumper cover. Thus, the reason for the removable access panel. Remove the access panel, drop your tow ball, tow your trailer, and reverse when done.

What the U.S. dealer has done is ordered the Euro bumper cover which does have a hole big enough to install the U.S. tow receiver. The hole is bigger than the one cut using the supplied Audi template on the U.S. bumper cover. The Euro hole may have a cleaner finish to the hole, but the access cover is useless.

It's your choice if you want to spend the extra money for the Euro bumper cover and paint job. It basically comes down to appearance.

msj

08-28-2009, 10:04 AM

DavidSG

08-28-2009, 10:24 AM

Cool - post a pic when you get a chance. I think I'm going to forgo the hitch. Really just wanted it for bikes, and I'll either just throw the bike in the car or use the roof rack and hopefully remember not to drive into any garages.

msj

08-28-2009, 08:00 PM

edwyun

09-16-2009, 11:54 AM

Just got my Q back from the dealer. Total cost was $1640 including the painting of the new bumper cover. As you can see by the photos the removable cover may have be designed for a re-tractable hitch.

http://forums.audiworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4240&stc=1&d=1251237703

tmiele:

Do you have the part numbers for the new bumper lower and removable cover? I think I'm now going with this option despite the costs.

Also, in Europe, I believe these parts come pre-painted. Is there a reason why we can't get the pre-painted ones here?

Thanks!

snowcat

01-30-2010, 12:09 PM

For those of you already driving a Q5 with the PIO hitch, did you notice a change in acceleration from your test drive? I read a comment on another site that stated the required software update negatively impacted performance.

Poncherelly

03-29-2010, 08:19 AM

I think I'm going with the factory hitch but will install myself. Does anyone have a list of part numbers required?
Hitch =
wiring =
toung =
I assume the ball would be cheaper at my local automotive shop (CTC/petboys).

Does anyone know if the hitch comes complete with full install instructions? I think I also read that it comes with a template for the cut out? Oh any do we have to go back to the dealer for the software update or is it available elsewhere?

RCM09

03-29-2010, 04:17 PM

Comes with instructions. If you have Sline no need to cut anything as panel comes off. You order the hitch and bracket for module.I was lucky and I got 20% off at my dealership. Only thing is it took several appointments to get my computer to except the coding, no extra cost for me.

Tow Hitch...8RO-092-115
Bracket...8RO-907-297

Poncherelly

03-29-2010, 04:21 PM

Thanks! See I have the SLine but no trap door?

Poncherelly

03-29-2010, 04:24 PM

Thanks! See I have the SLine but no trap door?

Just double checked and ..... I have a trap door!

I'm so happy!!!

Thanks for making me check :D

billypete

03-29-2010, 10:00 PM

Poncherelly

04-10-2010, 04:42 AM

Hey all, so I have my hitch and will be making the attempt tomorrow (Sunday) assuming nothing else comes up. I'm confident that I'll get the through the installation ok (with some scratched knuckles of course). The only outstanding question I still have is the coding; is this still only a dealer thing or has someone been able to get the information elsewhere for a DYI? Since it’s just a software update I’m sure it’s fairly straight forward, but haven’t heard of anyone who’s done it yet.

Anyone?

kleinbus

04-10-2010, 09:44 AM

Poncherelly

04-10-2010, 12:12 PM

There is two different things involved with software.

First activating the hitch function and that can be done with vag-com from several locations (hitch itself, engine management etc). I got messed up as about year ago on early days of this model there was not enough information, I found only one location and could not complete the activation by myself so I had to take it to dealer.

Second the software update that took from dealer sometime to complete. I do not know is this BS and my dealer just messed up with activation and took their sweet time to complete the basic activation or is this real software upload / update?

Hmm, From what I've read in other threads, some have configured the hitch with thier VAG but had ESP lights staying on until they took it in. I guess I'll know for sure tomorrow whne I hook mine up, but thought I would ask. As for the second update you mentioned, I know they were working on that for a while and it delayed several people from getting thier hitches, I wonder if mine would have been updated in advance or if a trip to the dealer is unavoidable. If I don't have any other reasion for my car to be in I would expect them to charge me for the update :(, another reason I was wondering if anyone had the update available for a DYI. Ah well, some things you just can't finish on your own ... that's what happens when you play with the big boys :) LOL.

Thanks for the reply! Enjoy the rest of your weekend.

kleinbus

04-10-2010, 12:35 PM

I got the EPS warning as my activation was not complete and I had to unplug the control box to get the light off and then few days later I went to dealer.

EPS warning goes away when hitch is properly activated.

You end up going to dealer anyways as software update is for transmission and engine management. If you are lucky and your service is due at the same time then, like the saying goes, you get the two rocks with one bird (yes my niece invented that, poor bird I have to say)

RCM09

04-10-2010, 06:29 PM

I brought mine in twice, both on a Satuday for other problems and my 5000 mile service. They couldn't code my trailer hitch with out the ESP light coming on. I finally had to make an appointment on a week day so they could get a hold of Audi and the Tech that was there during the week day had run into this before and got the coding right.

Poncherelly

04-10-2010, 06:48 PM

Well I took the plunge and did it tonight! I was able to get the unit installed and it all went well. I plugged in the control box and got the ESP light and a light error. I VAG'd to tell the car there's a trailer hitch but still the error remains (including the light error). I unplugged the box, remove the VAG of the hitch and the ESP light is now gone but the light error is still there.

I'm going to call the dealer Monday and see when they can take me ...

Hopefully all will go well and I'll troubleshoot the light error tomorrow.

Poncherelly

04-13-2010, 04:37 PM

Still trying to get in with the dealer. They're really backed up and trying to fit me in. I'll keep calling daily to see if I can get in but in the mean time if anyone can tell me what needs to be configured I would really appreciate it. I found the code to tell the computer the hitch is installed, but the ESP light stays on.

I did however figure out the why the light error was on ... turns out I forgot to plug the cable under the tail gate lock. dawned on me this morning and plugged it back in. Light is now off.

Well if anyone figured out the trailer hitch coding, it would be great to share ;)

CrustyNoodle

04-14-2010, 04:18 AM

Poncherelly

04-14-2010, 04:53 AM

I can't help you with the code (have seen the switch in vagcom - module 09 – Cent. Elect. if I remember correctly - and was hoping that would do the trick).

I ordered my towbar yesterday (from the UK) with the Q5 specific controller with the plan to fit it myself. If you do happen to find all the settings required to get it to work, would you mind sharing?

I had the same assumptions:( Once I figure out what the codeing is (if I do before I get a spot at the dealers) I'll post it. So far 3 forums have turned up no answers though. As for the install of the hitch, there are some really good instructions in this forum that helped me allot! The instructions that came with the hitch were hard to follow and took far more off then what was needed. If you need questions answered while your going through the install, send me a PM, I normally get them quick on my Blackberry and I'd be happy to walk you through anything you get stuck on.

Cheers

CrustyNoodle

04-16-2010, 05:45 AM

Thanks Poncherelly,

My tow bar is now "on the way" and in the capable hands of FedEx - should be here in about a week though it's a bit dependent on the effects of the volcano eruption in Iceland.

This is the one I've gone for (http://www.bosal.com/AUTOMOTIVEPRODUCTS/Aftermarket/Towbars/Detachable/AK41/tabid/324/Default.aspx). Admittedly it's a bit phallic looking but it is rated to the full 2400kg capacity to match the Q5 rated limit and it has a 100kg nose weight.
The best part about it is its detachability (if that is a word) means that with the correct lower bumper section (spoiler in Audi speak) it will be completely concealed.. but there in lies the next problem....

What I need is the lower section and cover that tmiele has got as shown in his pictures here:

http://forums.audiworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4240&stc=1&d=1251237703

http://forums.audiworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4241&stc=1&d=1251237718

http://forums.audiworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4242&stc=1&d=1251237733

The part numbers I require are:
8R0 807 434 E 4U8 - for the spoiler and
8R0 807 819 4U8 - for the cover.

Sounds simple but the price listed in the US for the spoiler is US$268 where as my local dealer has quoted me A$1200 :eek: for the same part - That's about US$1,100

So here is the question...

Is there someone on the forum (in the US) who would be willing to help me out with the sourcing and shipping of this component?

Please!

Poncherelly

04-16-2010, 05:51 AM

Thanks Poncherelly,

My tow bar is ... and shipping of this component?

Please!

Hey CrustyNoodle, I have the S-Line and I have that "trap door" on my car but it looks different than the one in the picture. Is this a replacement part for those that need to cut upen thier rear bumper? I can PM you with some options once we confirm what parts you need.

kleinbus

04-16-2010, 06:44 AM

I can't help you with the code (have seen the switch in vagcom - module 09 – Cent. Elect. if I remember correctly - and was hoping that would do the trick).

There is several locations where it have to be activated, module 09 cent elect, hitch is just one.

Another I know is in engine management...

NA hitch structure with NOT be concealed by the lid as the receiver tube sticks out from the bumper skin.

European flip out - flip in is completely covered by the lid but the structure is different as it folds in and behind the bumper skin.

Poncherelly

04-16-2010, 07:00 AM

There is several locations where it have to be activated, module 09 cent elect, hitch is just one.

Another I know is in engine management...
hmmm, I'll go out and check to see what I can find and see if the ESP light goes out. I'll report back if I'm successfull :)

NA hitch structure with NOT be concealed by the lid as the receiver tube sticks out from the bumper skin.

European flip out - flip in is completely covered by the lid but the structure is different as it folds in and behind the bumper skin.

True, my S-Line cover will not fit now that I have the hitch on and from the pictures I see the EU hitch is similar to the hitch that CrustyNoodle is buying. The question is does CrustyNoodle have an S-Line or not. If he has an S-Line then there is no requirement to buy anything else, if he doesn't then the part in the picture he displayed might be a replacemtn part to cover the hole you have to cut in the stock rear bumper. Still unclear right now.

Poncherelly

04-16-2010, 02:38 PM

ok so I looked through the VCDS and found 4 spots to code for the trailer hitch and a trailer hitch section that might make itself available after I code the other 4. I don't have time to test tonight because my wife wants to go to diner and a movie but I'll be testing tomorrow AM first thing. My goal is to have the module connected with no ESP errors!

Once I test I'll come back on with my findings and let you all know. Maybe I can save myself and others in here a trip to the dealer.

I'll keep you all posted.!

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 06:27 AM

CrustyNoodle

04-17-2010, 06:58 AM

Thanks Guy's and well done Poncherelly. Let me know the modules in which you found reference to "tow bar" and I'll take a look as well - though I can't do much testing until my tow bar control box turns up with my tow bar.

Unfortunately my Q5 is non S-Line and with the non-painted lower sections viz. I just couldn't justify the premium they ask over here for the S-Line package (in the order of US$5k)

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h122/CrustyNoodle/Audi/IMG_0584_small.jpg

I enquired with Sunset Audi Parts (http://www.sunsetaudiparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215821) and they inform me that the part numbers I have are correct however that the parts are not a US delivered part so they can't help.

The question is: do all NA Q5's come with painted lower sections?

If the answer is yes then I can understand that only painted ones are brought into the US otherwise I think there might be a chance.

CrustyNoodle

04-17-2010, 07:09 AM

Ok so I'm trying to get this done and one of the trailer hitch changes is in 03 (ABS) and when I try and make the change it gives me an access error. This makes sence that it's ESP errors if I cant change this option. Does anyone know how I can get in to this area?

It just so happens I do - we are in luck!

When you go into module [03 - ABS Brakes] you need to select the [Security Access - 16] button and enter the "security access key" of 61378 and press "do it". You should get a message saying that the code has been accepted. Then you can get into [Coding - 07] and do your stuff.

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 07:11 AM

It just so happens I do - we are in luck!

When you go into module [03 - ABS Brakes] you need to select the [Security Access - 16] button and enter the "security access key" of 61378 and press "do it". You should get a message saying that the code has been accepted. Then you can get into [Coding - 07] and do your stuff.

Is it the same code for every car?

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 07:12 AM

CrustyNoodle

04-17-2010, 07:13 AM

I'm pretty sure it is.

It doesn't hurt anything if you get it wrong - just a message to tell you to try again so give it a go - it can't hurt.

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 07:20 AM

Here is what mine looks like:

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 07:31 AM

I'm pretty sure it is.

It doesn't hurt anything if you get it wrong - just a message to tell you to try again so give it a go - it can't hurt.

YOU ROCK! I used the code and it worked. All is hooked up and no errors! I didnt' go for a drive yet, but the error came on right away before. I'm completing my how to document and I'll share shortly.

Thank you VERY MUCH!

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 08:24 AM

HEy all, I have the full document in WORD format but it's too big for an upload. I've uploaded it to my personal server and it can be downloaded here: http://thecarpentiers.homelinux.com/files/Q5_trailer_instal_and_codes.docx
If this link get's removed (not sure if it's against the rules) PM me and I'll send it to you.

Thanks again everyone! wouldn't have been able to do it without you.

Would be nice also if anyone who goes through this instruction responds back validating what's been put together.

billypete

04-17-2010, 08:56 AM

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 08:58 AM

Wow, excellent document with pics and VAG codes! Thanks for putting this together!

Thanks! I can only take credit for the VAG screen shots. The install pics are all kleinbus.

I hope it's a usefull document ... wish I had it before my install and config ;).

kleinbus

04-17-2010, 12:53 PM

Its good to see something really happens here and not just all talk and flaming.

Yes I pulled the trigger with hitch on late 09 when first NA hitch arrived to dealers but got dead end with coding as I just got the cable and barely knew how to use it, now Ponch rolled up his sleeves and got it further and completed whole thing.

Splendid mate splendid. :D

Ponch, just to be sure double check your dealer is there additional software update to your car as when I got mine to dealer for activation, they also spent half day uploading new software to the car but I have no clear info is it because the hitch or was it just general update.

Poncherelly

04-17-2010, 01:20 PM

Its good to see something really happens here and not just all talk and flaming.

Yes I pulled the trigger with hitch on late 09 when first NA hitch arrived to dealers but got dead end with coding as I just got the cable and barely knew how to use it, now Ponch rolled up his sleeves and got it further and completed whole thing.

Splendid mate splendid. :D.
Was fun for me to finally be of value in here :D

Ponch, just to be sure double check your dealer is there additional software update to your car as when I got mine to dealer for activation, they also spent half day uploading new software to the car but I have no clear info is it because the hitch or was it just general update.

Ah, good point .. I'll check with the dealer next week and let you guys know if they recommend any further work.

Cheers!

CrustyNoodle

04-18-2010, 04:59 AM

Poncherelly

04-18-2010, 06:19 AM

I've had a mental note against kleinbus' original fitting thread - I always intended to return to your post when the time came. Ponch, you've taken it another step by putting the whole thing into one package with the vagcom mods.

Thanks go to both of you!

Can't wait for mine to arrive and get stuck into it.

And the good news is you have two people that have gone through the instal. Feel free to call on me if you get stuck, I get all of these msg on my Blackberry so can reply fairly quick. I know there were a coupld of spots that I sat scratching me head even with the excellent information provided already.

Poncherelly

04-25-2010, 01:36 PM

edwyun

04-25-2010, 02:20 PM

I also use a 7-4 pin adaptor. everything works as it should and no brakelight failure indicator.

I dunno the manufacturer, but it was a cheapo unit from the neighborhood auto supply store.

Poncherelly

04-25-2010, 02:45 PM

I also use a 7-4 pin adaptor. everything works as it should and no brakelight failure indicator.

I dunno the manufacturer, but it was a cheapo unit from the neighborhood auto supply store.

Hmm, well they have another one at our local CTC so maybe I'll try that one. If not, I have no idea what to do if it doesn't work.

drone dog

04-25-2010, 05:23 PM

Hey guys, well I used my trailer hitch for the first time this past week (Friday) and when I bought the 7 - 4 adapter with LEDs the brakelight error returns. I tested the signals and 4 ways and all work fine but the break lights don't and I get the afore mentioned error. The error does go away when I disconnect the 7 - 4 adapter.
I have exchanged the adapter to see if that was the problem and nope ... still happens. Has anyone else experienced this and if not, where did you buy the adapter your using? I got mine at Canadian Tire but the maker is Hopkins.

it might have to do with the lights on your trailer. i had this with my land rover. if you have LED lights on the trailer you will have an issue. the problem is that your car sends a low voltage signal all the time to see if the lights work. this causes an issue. you will have to wire in regular lights for the brakes and signals. this is how i got around it. that is if i understand your problem right.

drone dog

04-25-2010, 05:25 PM

Hmm, well they have another one at our local CTC so maybe I'll try that one. If not, I have no idea what to do if it doesn't work.

i am interested in whether you hooked up a brake controller. i want to get one hooked up but am not sure how to pull the panel under the steering wheel to get to the plug or even where it is in there.

Poncherelly

04-25-2010, 05:32 PM

it might have to do with the lights on your trailer. i had this with my land rover. if you have LED lights on the trailer you will have an issue. the problem is that your car sends a low voltage signal all the time to see if the lights work. this causes an issue. you will have to wire in regular lights for the brakes and signals. this is how i got around it. that is if i understand your problem right.

The light comes on before I even hook up the trailer. As soon as I plug in the adapter, the light comes on. Maybe I'll try a different model. Does yours have the LEDs?

Poncherelly

04-25-2010, 05:33 PM

i am interested in whether you hooked up a brake controller. i want to get one hooked up but am not sure how to pull the panel under the steering wheel to get to the plug or even where it is in there.

No, I don't have the brake controller. I'll head out though and see what it takes to take off the panel. I've had it off my A4 before so I'm sure it's not that hard ...

drone dog

04-25-2010, 06:04 PM

The light comes on before I even hook up the trailer. As soon as I plug in the adapter, the light comes on. Maybe I'll try a different model. Does yours have the LEDs?

my trailer does, yes. so i went and got some regular lights, about 10 bucks from auto zone and wired them in for the brake lights. this took care of the problem for my brake lights. are your trailer lights LED? the reason i think this is the same issue is that when you plug your lights in and use a blinker, there is a light that comes on in the dash to tell you that your lights are working. my rover worked the same way. i had trouble with the trailer until i got a tip from a guy on the rover site. these systems send a low voltage out to monitor that circuit. that is fine with regular lights but LED's can light from very low voltage. at least that was what was explained to me. now i have a factory tow package on this Q5. So i did not need to do any coding. i hooked my trailer up the other day to get a load of mulch on it. the lights worked fine. but i want a brake controller. who knew it would be so hard to get info on this. my dealer knew nothing on it and said audi does not put a plug in. i told him he was nuts. he said the wiring diagram does not show it. but i am betting they did not bother to call anyone. i surely put this on my survey on the service form Audi. let's see if they read.

Poncherelly

04-25-2010, 06:26 PM

No, I don't have the brake controller. I'll head out though and see what it takes to take off the panel. I've had it off my A4 before so I'm sure it's not that hard ...

Hey drone dog, ok so I took a quick look and it looks fairly simple. There are 2 screws under the dash also 2 under the top cover. The top cover comes off by simply pulling on the lower coners. (This is the small cover that reaches from the left side of the steering over top and over to the rights.
Once that small cover is off and the two screws in back of that are out, and the two screw under the dash are out I think it might come out. I also noticed that that under panel reaches over to the foot rest under the dash that seems to be held on by a clip.
This was a quick look at my Q5 and I didn't actually take anything off. I'm on the road tomorrow for a week so if you don't get any further next week, I can pull things apart next weekend and document the process if you still need the help.

Of course I still have no idea if there is a brake controller connection back there ...

Poncherelly

04-25-2010, 06:27 PM

my trailer does, yes. so i went and got some regular lights, about 10 bucks from auto zone and wired them in for the brake lights. this took care of the problem for my brake lights. are your trailer lights LED? the reason i think this is the same issue is that when you plug your lights in and use a blinker, there is a light that comes on in the dash to tell you that your lights are working. my rover worked the same way. i had trouble with the trailer until i got a tip from a guy on the rover site. these systems send a low voltage out to monitor that circuit. that is fine with regular lights but LED's can light from very low voltage. at least that was what was explained to me. now i have a factory tow package on this Q5. So i did not need to do any coding. i hooked my trailer up the other day to get a load of mulch on it. the lights worked fine. but i want a brake controller. who knew it would be so hard to get info on this. my dealer knew nothing on it and said audi does not put a plug in. i told him he was nuts. he said the wiring diagram does not show it. but i am betting they did not bother to call anyone. i surely put this on my survey on the service form Audi. let's see if they read.

So do you think that the fact that my 7 - 4 adapter is the problem? Maybe I need to buy one without the LEDs on the adapter?

drone dog

04-25-2010, 06:58 PM

So do you think that the fact that my 7 - 4 adapter is the problem? Maybe I need to buy one without the LEDs on the adapter?

sorry this has nothing to do with the adapter. i meant the trailer had LED's. if your adapter has some sort of LED, then maybe yes, it is causing an issue. i have never seen an adapter with lights on it. again maybe i am missing something. i was thinking you were having an issue when you plugged in the trailer. was not thinking about the adapter itself causing an issue. but if it does have an LED and it is on that brake circuit, well maybe it could. why would an adapter even have an LED light on it? to show you have current to it?

kleinbus

04-25-2010, 06:58 PM

Ponch,

Yes your trailer LED lights are problem as Q5 computer monitors also trailers bulb current and with normal bulbs it would give bulb error if one burnt.

Like Drone said, computer sends pulses to check incandesent bulb condition, of OK it goes through and if burnt it doesn't. LED messes this "check" and computer can't make sense of it so it gives error.

There is easy solution to this...

There is 2 different type 7 to 4 converters,

one is normal (probably type you have that also had "check led's" build in to converter)

another is 7 to 4 for LED trailers and the converter haves resistors in it to imitate normal bulbs.

I got the same warning with normal 7 to 4 converter when I tried trailer with LED lights. (very same issue with VW Tiguan and Touareg, who knows might also be with Q7)

Though car computer seems to monitor only trailer tail and brake lights as I removed 4 pin connector and installed 7 pin to utilize reverse light power and installed LED reverse lights to my trailer. No bulb warning with reverse....

drone dog

04-26-2010, 08:52 AM

drone dog

04-26-2010, 08:54 AM

Hey drone dog, ok so I took a quick look and it looks fairly simple. There are 2 screws under the dash also 2 under the top cover. The top cover comes off by simply pulling on the lower coners. (This is the small cover that reaches from the left side of the steering over top and over to the rights.
Once that small cover is off and the two screws in back of that are out, and the two screw under the dash are out I think it might come out. I also noticed that that under panel reaches over to the foot rest under the dash that seems to be held on by a clip.
This was a quick look at my Q5 and I didn't actually take anything off. I'm on the road tomorrow for a week so if you don't get any further next week, I can pull things apart next weekend and document the process if you still need the help.

Of course I still have no idea if there is a brake controller connection back there ...

i am betting there is. thanks for the info. i will start digging the next rainy day.

kleinbus

04-26-2010, 09:16 AM

......i had not seen those type of 7-4 converters. the only one i have is just a simple plug that snaps into a 7 prong plug. only my old rover, it actually had both types right on the same plug so i did not need a converter. sounds like you have been thru this.

It looks like any other 7 to 4 converter but inside it haves resistors to imitate the resistance of normal bulbs.

Here is one...

http://store.uhaul.com/Wiring__lights/Moving/LED_Light_Trailer_Module

Also VW and Audi dealers have these on their parts list if you go and ask specifically one but it will be 3 times more $$$

Poncherelly

05-01-2010, 11:13 AM

It looks like any other 7 to 4 converter but inside it haves resistors to imitate the resistance of normal bulbs.

Here is one...

http://store.uhaul.com/Wiring__lights/Moving/LED_Light_Trailer_Module

Also VW and Audi dealers have these on their parts list if you go and ask specifically one but it will be 3 times more $$$

Well I went out and bought the adpater without the LEDs built in and still the same problem :(
I have signals and 4 ways (again signals) but still no break lights. Does anyone think there is a 5th configuration that I've maybe missed when configuring for the trailer hitch? I'm really running out of ideas ...

kleinbus

05-01-2010, 05:19 PM

You have code problem. I had exact same problem with VW Tiguan.

Poncherelly

05-02-2010, 05:16 AM

You have code problem. I had exact same problem with VW Tiguan.

I hope it's just a code problem ... Well I guess I'll go out to the truck and start going through the computer bit by bit again to see if I missed anything. If anyone knows, please ping me ... if I find the problem, I'll update our install doc on my server.

CrustyNoodle

05-03-2010, 05:07 AM

Ponch,

Installed my hitch on the weekend - all except the electrics that is! I'm interstate most of this week so it won't be until next weekend before I can finish off and give you a second reference point.

Some Pics for you....

Cover On
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h122/CrustyNoodle/Audi/IMG_0658_small.jpg

Cover removed and gizzards showing
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h122/CrustyNoodle/Audi/IMG_0659_small.jpg

Now that's what I call a tow BAR - sorry but it does look quite phallic.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h122/CrustyNoodle/Audi/IMG_0660_small.jpg

OK, now I've got your attention. Can you tell me which plugs you plugged into the little box of electronics (refer to picture below)? My wiring loom has a grey (I think) plug which went in the bottom port and it also had a red plug that fitted into the middle port (I can't find anything that looks like it would fit the top port) however if you look at the photo you can see a red plug wrapped in foam (off to the left). this looks like it would also fit in the middle port. I'm thinking that this pre-existing red plug is the "trailer preparation" and that I should be plugging this one into the control box not the one on the towbar wiring loom. Any thoughts?

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h122/CrustyNoodle/Audi/IMG_0646_small.jpg

Finally, does anyone know how that top panel comes off (the one with the rear seat release and light in it)? I need to get to a bolt behind this panel to attach the earth wire.

Poncherelly

05-03-2010, 11:07 AM

You know what ... I wonder if my problem is where I grounded the wire. I'm going to take a look at that tonight. I'm wondering if my ground is good enough for the signals but not enough for the break lights.

I've coded everything I can find so I really don't know what else I can look at. To your question CrustyNoodle, I believe you need a special tool to take that part off (if I remember the instructions that came with the hitch); but I'll take a look tonight to see if I can either get that off OR find a gooc ground location.

Poncherelly

05-03-2010, 04:36 PM

drone dog

05-03-2010, 06:47 PM

Nope, ground is fine ... still no break lights :(

i would suggest if you know someone with a trailer, go try it on their trailer. eliminate the trailer end. or go to a dealer and ask to check out towing a trailer, see how that works. eliminate one or the other.

kleinbus

05-03-2010, 08:15 PM

Nope, ground is fine ... still no break lights :(

You have code problem and you need to take it to dealer......

Crusty,

Shame on you, you have the hitch structure I wanted...

Darn this relic NA tube receiver!!! Anyways, Take passenger side floor panel (where tie down rings are) off, then there is a screw in that rear seat release leveler that you need to take off and then wiggle off the trunk door end by slipping your finger tips between the panel edge and seal. With mine I didn't take off whole panel, I just made enough gap to be able to tighten the 3rd nut.

CrustyNoodle

05-04-2010, 02:36 AM

Anyways, Take passenger side floor panel (where tie down rings are) off, then there is a screw in that rear seat release leveler that you need to take off and then wiggle off the trunk door end by slipping your finger tips between the panel edge and seal. With mine I didn't take off whole panel, I just made enough gap to be able to tighten the 3rd nut.

Thanks kleinbus and thanks again for the original instructions - without these I don't think I would have got through the bumper removal for fear of damage.

So the movement of the panel is toward the front of the car? Or is it toward the middle of the car (pulling it toward the drivers side)?

Poncherelly

05-04-2010, 03:42 AM

i would suggest if you know someone with a trailer, go try it on their trailer. eliminate the trailer end. or go to a dealer and ask to check out towing a trailer, see how that works. eliminate one or the other.

Here are the errors the computer is spitting out if anyone knows enough to help :)
"VCDS Version: Beta 10.3.0
Data version: 20100324

Sunday,02,May,2010,14:57:21:25382

Chassis Type: 8T0
Scan: 01 02 03 05 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 36 3C 42 46 52 53 55 56 5F
62 69 6C 6D 72

VIN: WA1MKCFP1AA026985 Mileage: 13350km/8295miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
69-Trailer -- Status: Malfunction 0010

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (J623-CALB) Labels: 06E-907-559-CAL.clb
Part No SW: 8R0 907 559 E HW: 8F0 907 559 A
Component: 3.2 SIMOS8.2 H06 0004
Revision: --------
Coding: 0121000A190F0921
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM32FSI8R0907559E A01006
ROD: EV_ECM32FSI8R0907559E.rod

1 Fault Found:
6016 - Function Restriction due to Received Malfunction Value
U1113 00 [101] - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 13357 km
Date: 2010.05.02
Time: 14:48:17

Readiness: 1110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 69: Trailer (J345) Labels: 8K0-907-383.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 383 B HW: 8K0 907 383 B
Component: Anhaenger H08 0080
Revision: 1A002002 Serial number: 00000116564843
Coding: 0100000000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000

2 Faults Found:
02564 - Trailer; Left Tail Lamps (M60)
010 - Open or Short to Plus - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 158
Mileage: 13357 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.05.02
Time: 14:31:01

02562 - Trailer; Brake Lamps
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10101010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 198
Mileage: 13357 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.05.02
Time: 14:46:00

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

kleinbus

05-04-2010, 05:23 AM

Thanks kleinbus and thanks again for the original instructions - without these I don't think I would have got through the bumper removal for fear of damage.

So the movement of the panel is toward the front of the car? Or is it toward the middle of the car (pulling it toward the drivers side)?

Remove the passenger side floor panel, remove the screw from release latch, and then peel off the from back end of panel, the end that goes under the trunk door seal (gasket). Peeling the back off a bit was enough for me to get the bracket in and tighten all 3 nuts that holds the control box bracket.

Poncherelly

05-04-2010, 04:59 PM

Ponch,

Installed my hitch on the weekend - all except the electrics that is! I'm interstate most of this week so it won't be until next weekend before I can finish off and give you a second reference point.

Some Pics for you....
-=Pictures=-
OK, now I've got your attention. Can you tell me which plugs you plugged into the little box of electronics (refer to picture below)? My wiring loom has a grey (I think) plug which went in the bottom port and it also had a red plug that fitted into the middle port (I can't find anything that looks like it would fit the top port) however if you look at the photo you can see a red plug wrapped in foam (off to the left). this looks like it would also fit in the middle port. I'm thinking that this pre-existing red plug is the "trailer preparation" and that I should be plugging this one into the control box not the one on the towbar wiring loom. Any thoughts?

-=Pictures=-

Finally, does anyone know how that top panel comes off (the one with the rear seat release and light in it)? I need to get to a bolt behind this panel to attach the earth wire.

Hey buddy, did you figure out the wirring? It should be obviouse when you see each beside each other. There is only one way for them to go ... Oh and great job! I love the set up of the EU model ...

CrustyNoodle

05-08-2010, 05:18 AM

OK Chaps, finished the electrical connections today.

Kleinbus, I couldn't get that panel off for fear of breaking something so I ended up using one of the bolts holding the equipment rack in place. The multimeter indicates that it is a good earth - just hope it can handle the current.

I did the computer coding but I to have come up with some problems - I'm sure kleinbus or someone else with a towbar and VagCom can help.

The Errors I'm getting are:

3 Faults Found:
02588 - Swiveling Trailer Hitch
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100101
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 0
Time Indication: 0

02778 - Locking Bolt Contact Switch (F355)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 0
Time Indication: 0

02563 - Trailer; Right Tail Lamps (M61)
010 - Open or Short to Plus - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 245
Mileage: 4880 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.05.08
Time: 17:17:58

Interestingly my coding for module 69-trailer is: 0109080000000000 and Ponch's is 0100000000000000.

I'll go out now and change my coding to match Ponch's to see if that fixes anything but what I'd really like is a complete VAGCOM scan by kleinbus or anyone else with a towbar and a VCDS cable. I suspect there is also a change to be made in the Central Electrics module which might fix the problems we are having with the lights.

How about it kleinbus - do you think you can help out?

CrustyNoodle

05-08-2010, 05:42 AM

Poncherelly

05-08-2010, 08:00 AM

No luck on the coding changes - they wouldn't take when I pressed the "Do It!" button. In fact I haven't had any luck changing any of the codings on the 69-Trailer module so there is a possibility that it requires a security code to make changes. I tried to change Byte 0 Bit 0 to "3" for Australia but this didn't take either.

I was just about to make the same observation. I got a comparision from kleinbus and all our codes are identical except for the second digit on module 69. When I've tried to make the change there in the past (change from RoW "Rest of the world" to "North America") it always failed. Does anyone know the code to get in there? I tried the same code we have for the ABS module, but predictably it's not it.

Poncherelly

05-08-2010, 08:04 AM

OK Chaps, finished the electrical connections today.

Kleinbus, I couldn't get ...

Interestingly my coding for module 69-trailer is: 0109080000000000 and Ponch's is 0100000000000000.
And Kleinbus is 0200000000000000

I'll go out now and change my coding to match Ponch's to see if that fixes anything but what I'd really like is a complete VAGCOM scan by kleinbus or anyone else with a towbar and a VCDS cable. I suspect there is also a change to be made in the Central Electrics module which might fix the problems we are having with the lights.

How about it kleinbus - do you think you can help out?

I wouldn't just make changes to match mine without looking at what it is you're changing. Yes do a comparision, but make sure the changes described in you VCDS makes sence for your configuration ...

CrustyNoodle

05-09-2010, 04:33 AM

I think I can guess what those non-zero's in my code represent.... I'm guessing they are what configures the controller to think that I have the automatic bar (the one that flips out with the twist of a lever) as this bar has sensors to ensure that it is correctly locked into place - that is exactly what one of my errors refers to.

I'm also getting that an adaptation change is required to fix the problem with the lights (bulb out error). I'm sure a bit of tweaking in there will calibrate the resistance check to suit the trailer lights.

Poncherelly

05-09-2010, 01:56 PM

Poncherelly

05-25-2010, 08:16 AM

Ya you're probably right ... I know that when I go in there the VCSD software asked to help them map this module but I haven't looked further to see what they need from me to do it ...

OK! I was in touch with Ross-Tech (VCSD) and they're looking in to mappin ghte trailer hitch module a little more. In the mean time another rep contacted me to help me make a change in the module to record that the car (and hitch) are from NA and not "the rest of the world". By changing this setting, my break light error on the dash went away!!!!

I will update my how to document and Ross-Tech will be updating thier WIKI as well.

One other thing, I have two 7->4 adapters. 1 has 4 LED lights to act as test lights and the other doesn't. If I use the one with the test lists (LED) the error comes back but if I use the adapter without the LEDs and just plug it in to a trailer, then no error.

Take care all, this thread can now be closed ;)

ELEVENS

05-25-2010, 09:27 AM

Just an "aside" :my 2010 Q5 arrived yesterday and I was informed that the hitch installation is now being done at the factory and not at the port as was previously the case. The cover panel with the two 1/4-turn thumb screws was in the car so my intention is to trim it and then use it to tidy up the installation.

RCM09

05-25-2010, 02:20 PM

The cover panel with the two 1/4-turn thumb screws was in the car so my intention is to trim it and then use it to tidy up the installation.

Good luck with that. I just left mine off, not a big deal.You'll end with some lop sided deal that may not look any better as the plug needs to have access.

ELEVENS

05-25-2010, 06:46 PM

Good luck with that. I just left mine off, not a big deal.You'll end with some lop sided deal that may not look any better as the plug needs to have access.

Well my plan was to only use the hitch about twice a year, at which time I would use those two 1/4-turn thumb screws to remove the custom-cut cover to allow access to the receptacle. Does that sound like it might be doable?

edwyun

05-25-2010, 09:13 PM

Well my plan was to only use the hitch about twice a year, at which time I would use those two 1/4-turn thumb screws to remove the custom-cut cover to allow access to the receptacle. Does that sound like it might be doable?

I don't think so, unless they changed the hitch and connector for 2010. The hitch and connector protrude down and out quite a bit from the cutout in the bumper lower so as to make the cover with the 2 1/4-turn screws unusable with the hitch installed - at least for the NA versions. It does work for the Euro versions, as the Euro hitch is retractable.

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=161106&pictureid=220596

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=161106&pictureid=220601

ELEVENS

05-26-2010, 07:49 PM

Well I'm always up for a challenge. The cover was meant to be cut. It's pre- scored on the backside. Here's a couple of pics, the first is how the car was delivered with all the hardware in plain view! The second pic is my late-night rough-in of the cover. Finishing the cuts and radiusing the corners will have to wait for daylight, but it's good to know that it CAN be done!

edwyun

05-26-2010, 08:47 PM

Now i see what you're talking about. Hmm. Not bad. But it looks like your bumper lower opening for the hitch has no built-in back plate.

CrustyNoodle

05-27-2010, 05:10 AM

I will update my how to document and Ross-Tech will be updating thier WIKI as well.

Take care all, this thread can now be closed ;)

Ponch, thank's mate, I'll give it a go on the weekend (travelling yet again this week!)

I still have the warning that the hitch is not locked into position so if this change doesn't fix that one I might see if I can get on to the same guy from RossTech that was helping you to see if he can sort it.

All the best.

ELEVENS

05-27-2010, 06:20 PM

Now i see what you're talking about. Hmm. Not bad. But it looks like your bumper lower opening for the hitch has no built-in back plate.

Another thing is that the S-Line apparently has a very different hitch cover than the base. Here's pics of the finished product:

Old Dog

05-27-2010, 06:41 PM

Very nice job ELEVENS :). Where there's a will, there's a way.

ELEVENS

05-27-2010, 07:25 PM

Very nice job ELEVENS :). Where there's a will, there's a way.

Thanks Dog. Some old buds call me Willy. So where there's a Willy, there's a way!

Old Dog

05-27-2010, 07:43 PM

Thanks Dog. Some old buds call me Willy. So where there's a Willy, there's a way!

LOL :).

ELEVENS

05-31-2010, 07:19 PM

And now for a proper picture

CrustyNoodle

06-04-2010, 06:31 AM

Happy Days!

For those who have been following the coding discussions on this thread, I'm happy to report that I have finally eliminated the remaining faults that I was experiencing (relating to trailer lights being out and trailer locking bolt not in position).

Ponch, I've updated the document with the extra changes that I had to make. If you PM me your email address, I'll send it to you so you can review (changes made with change tracking on) and repost for others interested in doing the same as us.

DrV

06-04-2010, 06:40 AM

Great news! I'll be keeping an eye out for those instructions - my wiring kit should arrive any day now. Thanks

Poncherelly

06-04-2010, 06:42 PM

CrustyNoodle

06-04-2010, 10:03 PM

Document sent.

CrustyNoodle

06-04-2010, 10:04 PM

Great news! I'll be keeping an eye out for those instructions - my wiring kit should arrive any day now. Thanks

Let me know if you have any difficulties - be glad to help out.

Must say though that I am still getting a trailer light fault.

Poncherelly

06-05-2010, 06:11 AM

Document sent.

We might have to FTP ... might be too large for email.

Poncherelly

06-05-2010, 06:14 AM

Let me know if you have any difficulties - be glad to help out.

Must say though that I am still getting a trailer light fault.

I'll assist where I can as well. Life is busy these days but if I read your emails in time I'll provide my feedback. I'm happy to say that I'm error free. I've hoocked up a trailer and I'm all good.

One note I'll make however is the the adapter I had mentioned before with the 4 LED lights built in ... do not use. These cause a fault error with the Q5. Once I traded this in for the same type of 7-4 adapter without the LED test lights the error didn't come back.

troyano

04-24-2011, 03:00 PM

Poncherelly

04-24-2011, 03:06 PM

Presentation from Spain
Greetings to all from Spain.
I am installing a trailer hitch on my Q5 original, and I think your experience can be positive.
Tried downloading this file: http://thecarpentiers.homelinux.com/...and_codes.docx, and I did not succeed.
Someone can tell me as I have to do to download.
Thanks

Hey bud, I just emailed it to you. I've been having issues with my home server so until it's fixed, I can send via email OR if someone else wants to post it somewhere?

troyano

04-24-2011, 03:15 PM

This really is, be quick.
I'll check my mail, thanks

troyano

05-05-2011, 04:57 AM

Already done the job.
I followed your instructions and this is the result.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/140/05052011194.jpg
http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/7439/05052011176.jpg
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/1881/03052011170.jpg
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/555/05052011177.jpghttp://img850.imageshack.us/img850/8388/05052011178.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/2528/05052011179.jpg
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/3544/05052011183.jpg
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/1979/05052011193.jpg

CrustyNoodle

05-05-2011, 08:48 AM

That is the factory fit hitch! Where did you get it from and was the folding mechanism complicated to fit?

CrustyNoodle

05-05-2011, 08:49 AM

Oh, and well done - it looks great!

troyano

05-05-2011, 11:13 AM

That is the factory fit hitch! Where did you get it from and was the folding mechanism complicated to fit?
If the original 8R0 092 157 this includes:
8R0 800 495b, hook trailer and drive mechanisms.
055 202 8R0, electrical equipment 'wiring and switchboard "
I bought it at auction www.Ebay.de. for 348 euros + 38 euros postage from Germany to Spain.
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/9309/kgrhqeokike11rqqewbnj3z.jpg

troyano

05-05-2011, 12:04 PM

Oh, and well done - it looks great!
Thanks, but we still have work to do.
I have done the coding as it did Poncherelly. And yet there are two faults.
Is the failure of the "can-gateway 19".
See if Poncherelly contact, and can send a snapshot of the bits that are marked in, BYTE 0, BYTE 1 and BYTE 3 of his "can-gateway 19. In order to compare with my"19 can-gateway .

This is the auto-scan pre-encoding:
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: Malfunction 0010
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Xenon Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
69-Trailer -- Status: Not registered 0011
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (J623-CAGA) Labels: None
Part No SW: 03L 906 019 BC HW: 03L 906 022 B
Component: R4 2,0L EDC H03 6573
Revision: 11H03---
Coding: 0121002C180F2120
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI03L906019BC A01005
ROD: EV_ECM20TDI03L906019BC.rod
VCID: 6DDACBEA4BCBE874

2 Faults Found
4698 - Function Restriction due to Received Malfunction Value
U1113 00 [039] - Open or Short to Plus
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 8906 km
Date: 2011.04.29
Time: 10:14:10

4699 - Function Restriction due to Received Malfunction Value
U1113 00 [039] - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 8906 km
Date: 2011.04.29
Time: 10:14:10

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels: 8R0-907-379.clb
Part No SW: 8R0 907 379 M HW: 8R0 907 379 M
Component: ESP8 quattro H06 0020
Revision: -------- Serial number: --------------
Coding: 0B5D48
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 4A9060761AE51F4C

1 Fault Found
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 251
Mileage: 8906 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.04.29
Time: 10:14:09

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x0000
Hex Value: 0x07A2
Hex Value: 0x0041
Hex Value: 0x0398
Hex Value: 0x00FF
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels: 8T0-907-468.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 907 468 AB HW: 8T0 907 468 H
Component: GW-BEM 5CAN H06 0117
Revision: GB800053 Serial number: 5300G10405841C
Coding: 00C303
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 8102075AE7539C14

Part No SW: 8R0 915 181 HW: 8R0 915 181
Component: J367-BDM H07 0140

1 Fault Found
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 251
Mileage: 8906 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.04.29
Time: 10:14:10

Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 10111
Voltage: 12.00 V
Count: 6
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. (J393) Labels: 8K0-907-064-46.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 064 DP HW: 8K0 907 064 DP
Component: BCM2 1.1 H02 0328
Revision: 00002001 Serial number: 0128836453
Coding: 013E0620203904C00520053280000000
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 8102075AE7539C14

Part No: 8K0 951 177
Component: DWA-Sensor H02 0040

Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HO H05 1501

2 Faults Found
02914 - Sensor 1 for Trunk/Hatch Closed (G525)
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 35
Mileage: 8906 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.04.28
Time: 16:00:56

02915 - Sensor 2 for Trunk/Hatch Closed (G526)
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 35
Mileage: 8906 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.04.28
Time: 16:00:56
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 69: Trailer (J345) Labels: 8K0-907-383.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 383 D HW: 8K0 907 383 D
Component: Anhaenger H07 0070
Revision: 1G001001 Serial number: 00000128120256
Coding: 0109080000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 356A238A631B60B4

1 Fault Found
02588 - Swiveling Trailer Hitch
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100101
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 0
Time Indication: 0

And this is the auto-scan after the encoding:
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Xenon Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
69-Trailer -- Status: Not registered 0001
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels: 8T0-907-468.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 907 468 AB HW: 8T0 907 468 H
Component: GW-BEM 5CAN H06 0117
Revision: GB800053 Serial number: 5300G10405841C
Coding: 00C303
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 8102075AE7539C14

Part No SW: 8R0 915 181 HW: 8R0 915 181
Component: J367-BDM H07 0140

1 Fault Found
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 251
Mileage: 8906 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.04.29
Time: 13:58:23

Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 10111
Voltage: 11.80 V
Count: 6
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 69: Trailer (J345) Labels: 8K0-907-383.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 383 D HW: 8K0 907 383 D
Component: Anhaenger H07 0070
Revision: 1G001001 Serial number: 00000128120256
Coding: 0109080000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 356A238A631B60B4

No fault code found.

troyano

05-06-2011, 02:44 AM

I managed to encode "19 can-gateway. "
These steps:
Select-> Installed-> 19 CAN-GATEWAY-> INSTALLATION LIST-> I checked "69 trailer"-> SAVE CODING-> out message" code accepted "-> DOT IT.
And this is the result, after performing the auto-scan.

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Xenon Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
69-Trailer -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels: 8T0-907-468.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 907 468 AB HW: 8T0 907 468 H
Component: GW-BEM 5CAN H06 0117
Revision: GB800053 Serial number: 5300G10405841C
Coding: 00C303
Shop #: WSC 06335 444 00000
VCID: 8102075AE7539C14

Part No SW: 8R0 915 181 HW: 8R0 915 181
Component: J367-BDM H07 0140

No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 69: Trailer (J345) Labels: 8K0-907-383.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 383 D HW: 8K0 907 383 D
Component: Anhaenger H07 0070
Revision: 1G001001 Serial number: 00000128120256
Coding: 0109080000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 356A238A631B60B4

No fault code found.

Poncherelly Thank you so much, would not have done it without your help.

CrustyNoodle

05-07-2011, 05:11 AM

I was going to suggest you look at activating the trailer module in the CAN gateway but you beat me to it.

Well done - enjoy the ultimate tow bar solution.

bcmoore80

07-06-2011, 10:07 AM

I feel the need to share this here... I sent a request for a quote to have a hitch installed by http://www.peninsulaautomotive.com/

Self proclaimed "Independent Audi Specialists" and this is what I got back from them...

Sharon,

Thanks for your response, but I expected a little more from a place that claims to be "Independent Audi Specialists". You obviously do not know anything about the complexity of installing a hitch on a 2010 Audi Q5. The process involves installing some complicated electrical components and re-programing the ECU. This is definitely not something that I would leave up to a 3rd rate organization like U-Haul.

-Brian
From: info@peninsulaautomotive.com
To: bcmoore80@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Audi Q5 Hitch
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 09:10:49 -0700

Morning Brian

We do not do this kind of work. You might try U-Haul.

Thank you for the inquiry,

Sharon

----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Moore
To: info@peninsulaautomotive.com
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 8:26 PM
Subject: Audi Q5 Hitch

Hi,

I would like to have a hitch installed on my 2010 Audi Q5. Can you give me a quote for parts and labor.

Thank you
-Brian Moore

Poncherelly

07-06-2011, 10:19 AM

Hey Bcmoore80,
the install isn't that hard ... i helped document the process with coding and if you have the time and a little technical skill it is doable in your garage. if you dont feel up to the task, maybe that so called Audi expert garage should read this forum lol

in any case, if you feel like you want to tackle the project, let us know and we'll see how we can help.

ELEVENS

07-06-2011, 11:39 AM