sk88erguy

I have had this problem for a year or so now and would like some more input on the codes im getting out of the CC unit.

my previous post is here https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...php?p=18959086

The A/C Compressor switch-off codes are G 1 2 3 and then also a2 "A/C manually switched off (A/C standby canceled)" and b3 "OFF selected"

Then i get the 15.1 code for the flap and a 29.4 code for hard serp belt slip.

so im wondering if my compressor is turning off because of something other than the serp belt would the codes always show it? like the wrong pressure of R12? I can deal with no AC if its going to be a big bill but if i can make an easy fix id love to do so, any advice would help.

sk88erguy

I have checked all tempatures through the CC. the channel 6 tempature is way low but i dont know if this would turn the AC off. The two inside temps show 55. im thinking a sensor is maybe bad.

https://www.audiworld.com/tech/int5.shtml

sk88erguy

What I dont get is my temp reading on the Instrument Cluster is spot on, but after rechecking the temps in the CC headunit they are all quit low. about half the real tempature. this doesn't make sense why the IC is reading right but the outside temp channel on the CC is different, isnt it the same sensor?

I think the CC is thinking the car is cool enough and turning the AC off... but i cant be sure. i guess ill jsust have to replace the temp sensors, which ones does the CC use to turn on/off the AC, the two inside and the front outside sensor?

sk88erguy

nevermind on that, channels 2-6 are low on temps but 56-60 are fine.

sk88erguy

OK i took it to a shop who tested the amount of R12 and im a pound low. they put back the 1.5lb and didnt charge me, i wanted to ask some questions before i add more.

The high port sensor seemed a little leaky when screwed back on, too tight would leak, too loose would leak, i dont know if this is normal?

The vacuum held at 25 for 15 minutes and im thinking if there is a leak its at the high port but i dont know how id fix this?

i can get a pound added for 80 bucks but if i am going to have to recharge it every year i might as well do it myself right? it seems like i could do it pretty easy as long as i can get the compressor to run.

S6MTL

Well, there is another solution... but many people may not like it... I'm suggesting it anyway cause I went this route.

It's called r12a (not to be confused with r12). It's hydrocarbon based, a mix of propane and butane I think.

Advantages:

It's cheap, you can buy cans everywhere (including ebay) and recharge yourself. It's compatible with r12 and r134a systems (goes well with any oil, o-rings, evaporator, compressor,etc...). It's easier to compress than all freon based refrigerants, meaning it'll consume less gas while a/c is on. It blows air as cold if not colder than r12 (not speaking of r134a that is inferior to r12 as a refrigerant). It also does not matter if there is humidity in your system, it works as well and does not react with water and corrodes your parts, so there is no need usually to pull a vacuum before filling (but too much humidity can still be a problem because ice can form and block orifices, but still it's less sensitive to humidity than freon).

Disadvantages:

The moment you put this in your system, you're on your own. Nobody will want to work on your a/c system because it would contaminate the equipment the shops use to work on freon systems (mixing refrigerants is illegal). There is also the question of flammability, which imo is way overdone. Sure, propane and butane are quite easy to ignite (with flame) but freon mixed with oil in a/c is flammable too, and having r12a in your a/c system is SO less of a concern for me than carrying a full tank of gas, the later being pumped at high pressure in the engine... but I'm not here to convince anyone and I know that many will disagree on this. You also need to evacuate your current refrigerant.


For me it was a no brainer, as I prefer to take care of my car and I'm ready to live with the consequences of being on my own, and I would say it's a far more superior refrigerant than freon as it's more effective and easier to work with. oh and it's better for the environment too...

anyway my a/c emptied completely over the winter. I filled it with this stuff and found the leak, in the evaporator it was quite obvious. It's colder then ever now but it's only been only a couple of weeks since the install so I can't say for the long run...

I read a lot on this before trying it, if it interests you be sure to research the subject well before jumping in.

sk88erguy

Thank you for the reply and i got your message.

My problem now is i am getting "A1 Slippage or blockage, A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch, 120x off" error code.

I had the shop fill the freon for 70 bucks, now i am realizing the problem is something else. im mad because i paid for the freon now it wont work and finding a blockage will be a PITA. i guess im hoping its the high pressure switch itself....

sk88erguy

If anyone has an idea of how i can test the switch that would be really nice, because if its just the switch thats an easy R&R and if its functioning ive got bigger problems in the lines. perhaps a kind fellow with a bentley can tell me what its supposed to ohm at? TIA.

alpinab7

i've been running Freeze12 (r12a?) in my wifes car for over a year.