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can't change my oil and its coming due!

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Old 06-25-2009, 08:36 AM
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Default can't change my oil and its coming due!

went to go have the oil changed today, and its 2,000 past the sticker...and the oil pan screw is rusted on and wont come off. the guy at the oil stop even broke a wrench trying to get it off...any ideas guys?
Old 06-25-2009, 08:38 AM
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It's probably not rusted, the oil pan is aluminum and the bolt is steel. They expand and contract at different temps. Do a search, there are at least a few posts on this same topic. I had a similar issue and went with an oil drain valve which so far I have had no regrets with.
Old 06-25-2009, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by iNsaNiA
went to go have the oil changed today, and its 2,000 past the sticker...and the oil pan screw is rusted on and wont come off. the guy at the oil stop even broke a wrench trying to get it off...any ideas guys?
If you are desperate to change the oil, use a topside oil changer. It's a vacuum style pump that "sucks" the oil out of the engine. Most oil change places will have this equipment. My local Valvoline oil change shop has one...

Which bolts exactly are you speaking about? The screw types that hold the plastic belly pan in its place? The oil pan is the bottom pan to the engine. Why would you need to take that off for an oil change?
Old 06-25-2009, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dwang
Which bolts exactly are you speaking about? The screw types that hold the plastic belly pan in its place? The oil pan is the bottom pan to the engine. Why would you need to take that off for an oil change?
I'm pretty sure he's talking about the drain plug bolt.
Old 06-25-2009, 12:07 PM
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You need to be very careful and use a air hammer to get that drain bolt moving....be very careful though as you can crack the pan using this method. When youre done...install a new drain plug and if your real crafty weld a socket right on the drain plug for future oil changes.
Old 06-25-2009, 12:39 PM
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PB Blaster is your friend.
Old 06-25-2009, 05:33 PM
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I just got on the plug with some vise-grips. For really stubborn plug, I've used a propane torch to apply some heat to the hex head on the plug for a moment and that help free it up.

Removing the pipe that has the wire running through it that goes from one side of the engine to the other makes it easier to get some torque on the plug.
Old 06-25-2009, 05:47 PM
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I used a plumber's pipe wrench with a steel pipe over the handle as an extension for more leverage.



By design the pipe wrench will continue to tighten as you apply leverage until the drain plug starts to turn. After you remove the drain plug you will need to replace
it with a new one (with seals) or a valve (fumoto?).

HTH
Good luck
Chris
Old 06-25-2009, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastscirocco
I used a plumber's pipe wrench with a steel pipe over the handle as an extension for more leverage.



By design the pipe wrench will continue to tighten as you apply leverage until the drain plug starts to turn. After you remove the drain plug you will need to replace
it with a new one (with seals) or a valve (fumoto?).

HTH
Good luck
Chris
I never realized that these drain plug were such a pain to remove... I guess that's why the PO installed a Fumoto valve.
Old 06-25-2009, 08:15 PM
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just weld the big nut (27mm or smthg) on top of your plug. The temperature difference will help to unscrew your freshly welded nut w/ the plug. 4-6 minutes job.


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