Everybody,

I got my RS a couple weeks back. I really enjoyed driving it home.

I have a few questions as I get to know the car.

I only got one master key from the previous owner. So I am looking to get one and have it programmed. I have found one on Ebay

Audi key fob (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06-07-08-2005-AUDI-A6-A4-A8-S8-ALLROAD-REMOTE-EY_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1262Q QcategoryZ33723QQihZ002QQitemZ120383497858)

the numbers do not match the ones I have on mine but does it make a difference? As long as it is 315mHz they should be able to program it? I am guessing I have to go the dealer to have it cut they should be able to program as well. Or am I way off?


Another question I am getting ready to fo a oil/filter change.
Is there a write up or pic on a DIY oil change?


Regards


Nick

Super easy.

1. get a 10 qt oil drain pan, stubby flat head screwdriver to get the 1/4 turn screws off the belly pan. Also going to need an allen to get the drain plug off. I don't know the size, but it is large. Also get a new crush ring from the dealer for the drain plug and a filter. Filter located under the carbon fiber on top of the motor.

2. You're gonna want to drain the filter first as the oil will drop into the drain pan when you remove the filter (anti drain back feature on the filter). Then remove the plug and everything else is pretty straight forward.

3. On the refill, only fill to the 1/2 way mark on the dipstick. 9 quarts will take it to the halfway mark without starting the car. Once you start the car, the filter reservior will take up 1/2 a quart and you will need to put in another 1/2 which wil bring you back to that 1/2 mark on the dipstick. You can put 9.5 quarts in there at one time, it won't make a difference. It will just read high till you start the car and circulate the oil.

cool. I have done all my oil changes for almost 20 years so sounds pretty straightforward.

Question the filter is at the top of the engine under the carbon fiber cover that says RS and has the Audi Logo? How do I remove the carbon fiber cover? Do I give it a little pull or there is some trick to it? I do not want to break or crack it.

Thanks


Nick

cool. I have done all my oil changes for almost 20 years so sounds pretty straightforward.

Question the filter is at the top of the engine under the carbon fiber cover that says RS and has the Audi Logo? How do I remove the carbon fiber cover? Do I give it a little pull or there is some trick to it? I do not want to break or crack it.

Thanks


Nick

just wiggle and tug up...it's got 3 plastic posts in grommets mntd to the metal bracket...
be careful, the grommets pull out sometimes and may get lost on the engine...

ok I got the cover off.

Now I also removed the 2 screws and the bracket the carbon fiber cover is attached. The filter is under the black cover with the huge allen bolt?
What size is that? Looks like 32or 34mm I have all the way to 27mm. I guess I will have to get something from Sears.

Pics to follow.
Bracket:
http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159892&pictureid=213969

Filter bolt:

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159892&pictureid=213970




Thanks for the input

Nick

ok I got the cover off.

Now I also removed the 2 screws and the bracket the carbon fiber cover is attached. The filter is under the black cover with the huge allen bolt?
What size is that? Looks like 32or 34mm I have all the way to 27mm. I guess I will have to get something from Sears.

Pics to follow.


Thanks for the input

Nick

it's a black plastic cover with a 36mm (I think) six sided bolt molded in to it...

checked mine, it's a 32mm
32 millimeter = 1.2598 inch
a 1-1/4" is very close

thank you.

I am going to be doing this all the time so might as well get me a 32mm 6 point socket

Good job - you took the words out of my mouth. I'm talking about changing the filter first, use 9.5 qts., and only fill to the 1/2 mark.

Somehow a 32mm socket is not something the local Sears has in stock. I may have to wait this one out until I receive it by mail.

I also ordered a Fumoto Valve to replace the drain plug. I have been using those for years with no adverse effects.

Of course I indeed lost one of the grommets that hold the carbon fiber cover. :o
Anyone have a part number for a replacement?


Thanks for the input folks.

Nick

Just use a pair of channel locks to take off the filter cap. Wrap a rag around the bolt so that you don't scratch it up.

Aaahh the channel lock pliers to the rescue. :)
I just went easy and barely made a mark. Came lose.
It says to be tightened at 25Nm. It felt quite a bit tighter than that.

Thanks

ok more questions about jacking points.

Are these ok to lift the car?

jacking point left front(I see the arrow per manual):

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=214025

Jacking point Left rear(I see the arrow per manual):

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=214024

Jacking point Center front:

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=214026

Jacking point Center rear:

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=214027


Plan is to use the center points to lift and then put 4 jack stands so it is safe to work on the car but before I break something I thought I would run it but the group.

Thanks for input.


Nick

ok the rear center point is fine to lift the car.
I was able to lift the car with no issues.
I put jack stands and the rear is resting on them.

I checked the rears pads and they have a ton of pad left. No need whatsoever to replace. So I will skip that part.

Now out of curiosity anyone has done the rear pads as DYI?
Or anyone has a service manual that describes how to be done?
If yes and they are able to scan the pages and email me please let me know.

OK I found a couple articles with pictures

Repair Brake Pads/Rotors/System Bleed (A4) (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel139.shtml)


Replacing the Brake Pads (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel2.shtml)


I did bleed the rear and replaced the stock fluid with ATE Super blue. It took a while for the blue fluid to completely displace the light amber one.
Actually the stock fluid looked to be in quite good state. I was tempted to skip it but since I bought the fluid and the car turned 2 years old a couple months ago I did it.

Tomorrow I will do the fronts and then I will re flush front and rear to make sure everything old is out of the system.

I bought 2 liters of ATE blue and I usually keep flushing a bit extra.
I keep the left over but when it is time to re flush I throw it away and use only brand new sealed fluid to be safe.


I also took a look at the rear DRC. Except some dirt and dust I did not really noticed any leaks. I went ahead and cleaned all over the area in the wheel wells as well as the rear rims which seemed to have been detailed and cleaned for the life of the car. I will add some wheel wax to help the cleaning in the future.


I will post pics tomorrow.

Cheers

Nick

ok I am done.


Rear brakes did not need to be swapped.
Front ones probably did not need to be changed either.
Even the fluid looked pretty good.

I did replace the front pads.
I did flush the brake fluid.

I still have to go bed the pads properly.


So I have a full liter of ATE blue unopened.
A set of rear pads brand new.


Oil change next.
Then the long process of buffing and leveling the paint starts.


Thanks to all that offer input.

Cheers

Nick

Did this turn out to be a 32mm or a 36mm socket needed. ECS has it listed as a 36mm?

Did this turn out to be a 32mm or a 36mm socket needed. ECS has it listed as a 36mm?

mine is a 32mm and I just changed my oil, it fits, at least on my car...

It is 32 mm on mine as well. I would have taken a pic but wife took the camera.

I just bought a 32mm axle socket for $7 from ebay. Got even lucky they were a local CT seller so I paid no shipping; $7.61 total.


Oil change later today.

Questions:

I have not yet removed the plastic belly pan.

What is the socket size of the drain plug? Torque to set it?

How many plastic clips there are under? I saw a bunch.
Any trick/inside on how they are removed?

For this time I went stock and got me Castrol 5W40.

Does the Audi care transfer to new owners? How frequently they will change the oil? Every 10k miles? Existing oil looks quite dark (although I am not sure that means it has lost any of its lubricating abilities)

Cheers

Nick

I have not yet removed the plastic belly pan.

What is the socket size of the drain plug? 8mm alen wrench - if I remember correctly Torque to set it? hand tight - don't kill it.

How many plastic clips there are under? I saw a bunch. yes a bunch
Any trick/inside on how they are removed? not really just the brake ducts can be a pain in the butt

For this time I went stock and got me Castrol 5W40. I use this all the time and never had to add any between the 5K changes.

Does the Audi care transfer to new owners? Not after 06 models - 07 models had to be purchased by new owner.


Chris

there are 2 plastic 1/4 turns inside the wheel well that need loosened also...

re-install these last, they give you acces to hold the brake ducts while securing them...
do the ducts first after installing the rear center fastener to hold the pan...I found this much easier

Thanks folks.

So can I reach the plastic plugs inside the wheel well?
I am going to turn the wheels left and right and see if they are accesible. Car is on the ramps now.

Cheers

Nick

so I have removed 16 of those /14 turn plugs.(gray silver looking)
It still seems to be holding pretty good.

Are the ones inside the wheel well black ones?

Any other screws/plugs I need to remove?

Cheers

Nick

so I have removed 16 of those /14 turn plugs.(gray silver looking)
It still seems to be holding pretty good.

Are the ones inside the wheel well black ones?

Any other screws/plugs I need to remove?

Cheers

Nick

yes, black plastic...I believe they are the inboard ones...

make sure you get the recessed ones on the bottom also

so I have removed 16 of those /14 turn plugs.(gray silver looking)
It still seems to be holding pretty good.

Are the ones inside the wheel well black ones?

Any other screws/plugs I need to remove?

Cheers

Nick

Ok got it.

Two of the black turn plugs on on each side.

drain plug is not a normal plug.

Ok question now. I unscrewed the filter housing. I tried to take it out but there is a hose pretty much in the way. I managed to take it out. Now how do I remove the filter off the screw on top? I have the new one and it seems to have some clips but how do I remove it?

Cheers

Nick

ok I guess it is supposed to slide out.

Here is a step by step I found on the web:


DIY RS4 oil and filter change (http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/audi-rs/92895-rs4-b7-oil-filter-change-guide.html)


Well it does not really want to come out. Any trick to it?
I tried to pull it out with some pliers but it was not giving up.

So before I break something what needs to be done?

Thanks again.

Nick

to remove the filter, just grasp, twist and pull GENTLY...it'll pop out...

if you have all the nuts out, inclusing inside the fender (pull those out, not just loose)
and the fender liners are pulled back a bit, it should almost fall out

Everything is out. Only the silly filter just keeps going in circles

Top of filter housing is off the car with the old filter still attached.
I tried to twist and pull gently and not so gently :)
It keeps twisting and nothing really happens.
I was looking at the new filter and it seems to have 6 clips like. Do these lock inside the top of the housing? It seems that they are locked and they will not release. I have twisted from a few degrees to many full turns and nothing happens.

Everything is out. Only the silly filter just keeps going in circles

Top of filter housing is off the car with the old filter still attached.
I tried to twist and pull gently and not so gently :)
It keeps twisting and nothing really happens.
I was looking at the new filter and it seems to have 6 clips like. Do these lock inside the top of the housing? It seems that they are locked and they will not release. I have twisted from a few degrees to many full turns and nothing happens.

twist and 'rock' it, pull as you do so...it will pop out...
DO NOT pry with any tools...
as you 'rock' it, the clips will disengage...

well I tried and tried. It seems the clips start to disengage but then they engage again. I am kind out of ideas. And my hand is hurting from trying.

not sure what else to say...
first time took me a minute or so...I was being careful
last Sat, less than 10 seconds...

wrap a rag around the filter...
rock the filter, when you hear the clips disengage, yank/twist like heck!

you have to get it off, or find someone that can...

Last time I did it I just popped it off in one quick motion....... 1,2,3 pull .... pop. off it came.

I am sure I do not know what I am doing. It cannot be so hard or it would never be like that. I know after I figure it out it will get easier.

When you say 1,2,3 pull what do you mean 1,2,3? I tried rock back and forth and twisting I hear/feel a clicking noise as it trying to release but then it seems that it just twists and stays on...

I will attempt again later today.

Cheers and thanks for all input.

Nick

ok I swang by the local shop I drive by every day.
He was nice enough to give it a try. He was like wow it is realy attached.
But then he grabbed a rag pulled it and he seperated filter/top.

So now I am ready to continue.

Not sure if this is harder the first time the filter comes out.
I am having serious doubt the car had it filter changed.

I pulled the maint records and they only listed the previus owner requested the oil to be changed at 5k miles. I am inclined to beleive that they replaced the oil and did nothing for the filter.
Plus the oil was really really dirty looking so was the filter.

Oh well. I guess next time I will try to take filter out if I cannot i will have this guy do the oil change.

Thanks again for all input and support.

Nick

Ok one more question.

We are proudly a 2 plate state so I need to replace the front plate filler with a plate. I looked around but I could not find a place/price for one.
Also any ideas how one takes the filler out and replaces with the plate?

cheers

Nick

Ok one more question.

We are proudly a 2 plate state so I need to replace the front plate filler with a plate. I looked around but I could not find a place/price for one.
Also any ideas how one takes the filler out and replaces with the plate?

cheers

Nick

the dealer may be your best bet...

look underneath the filler plate...you'll see 4 torx screws...5 minutes to swap out

Got it. I saw them.
I had a feeling I have to head to the dealer.


Thanks

Nick

just a thought:
maybe post in the classified here...someone may trade you even for your blank plate...
or have a license filler laying around after they put a blank on...

RS4 plate trim, ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-RS4-Original-License-plate-panel_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a10 Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQ hashZitem350188848543QQitemZ350188848543QQptZMotor sQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Thank you sir.

Got one from a member here on the way but I will try the one on Ebay as well.

Regards

Nick

Pics I took during the pads change.

DRC pics. They were dusty in the back(I think that is the back).
Here they are after I cleaned them:

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=215592http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=215590
http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=215591

I just changed the air filter on the RS.
At 16.4 k miles. It took a little bit of maneuvering to move the air box top. Also some hoses needed to be removed from clips an disconnected. The intake snorkel has a small filter(kind of looks like the lint filter of a dryer) near the fender that somehow was full of debris. The old vs. new filter in the pic.
I am pretty sure it was never changed before.

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=218649http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=218650




Cheers

Nick

Link no good

well It is the link off the album on Audi World.


http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=218650

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=159910&pictureid=218649


Here are the direct links.

BTW, it's a 32mm socket for the oil cap, just in case you were interested in picking one up.

BTW, it's a 32mm socket for the oil cap, just in case you were interested in picking one up.

thank you. I picked one up a couple months back when I did the oil change.

cheers

Nick

is it me or i have seen people having their DRC's replaced by AofA?
is there finally a TSB or it is applicable only if someone is experiencing issues?

Is there any paperwork people that they are having their DRC's replaced with parts with a "b" part designation?


I do not have any audible issues but on the other hand if they will replace with a new improved version maybe I should pursue it.

cheers

Nick

They will only replace them if they are pretty bad. They would then order new suspension for you and it would be the revised kit that won't leak again.