Long time lurker, first time poster.

I did the rear brakes on my 2005 A6 this weekend. I did not buy the Vag-com tool as I really have no desire to change any settings or anything. Also, I do not have a laptop, so moving my home PC into the garage to change my f'in brakes really did not appeal to me. Plus, the vag-com was just too much coin $275 for the cheapest version.

Rather, I simply bought the tool from Mactools.com, part No. EPB101. It is about 1/3 the cost of the vag-com but is limited to brake jobs.

Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals...... see funny story below for the reason why I had to rebuild the caliper....

Now, since I had the resetting tool in hand, I can not tell what my little proceedure will do, after installing the new rotors/pads. Namely, I do not know if it the computer will recalibrate the motor to the new spacing and reset the error code. I suspect it will. However, if it does not, you should be able to hit the local autozone and have them reset the codes for you.... Also, I had the tool in had from mactools the day after I ordered it, I did not even pay for the fedex delivery, they just sent it that way.

So all told, I spent about $60 on the pads and $75 on the rotors both at genuineaudiparts.com, plus the $140 on the tool from mactools ===> $275, which is still a bunch less than the stealership wanted and now I can do them whenever I want......

My funny story about rebuilding the calipers....You've got to make sure you have NOT taken out the old pads before using the tool. When you plug this thing in, it sends a bunch of codes to the computer to see what kind of car it is dealing with. I had my calipers already off when I plugged it in because I tried to do the brakes without the tool and had not yet figured out the little torx trick I described above. In doing so, the tool caused the motor to index forward, obviously looking for the end point before retracting. With no resistance from the pads/rotors, the damn motor forced the piston right out of the caliper housing. Now my car was bleeding all over the place. Luckily none of the seals or boots were damaged, so I simply rebuilt the things. Boy was I pissed.

If you live in Connecticut and want to use the tool, send me a note offline....

lol, great story. I live in CT, too. Which area do you locate? I live in West Hartford. All my pads were replaced less than a few months, however, the front pads are giving brake dust like crazy. I probably have to take care of that soon. Anyways, that was a good read. Glad that you figured out how to the rear break.

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I did the rear brakes on my 2005 A6 this weekend. I did not buy the Vag-com tool as I really have no desire to change any settings or anything. Also, I do not have a laptop, so moving my home PC into the garage to change my f'in brakes really did not appeal to me. Plus, the vag-com was just too much coin $275 for the cheapest version.

Rather, I simply bought the tool from Mactools.com, part No. EPB101. It is about 1/3 the cost of the vag-com but is limited to brake jobs.

Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals...... see funny story below for the reason why I had to rebuild the caliper....

Now, since I had the resetting tool in hand, I can not tell what my little proceedure will do, after installing the new rotors/pads. Namely, I do not know if it the computer will recalibrate the motor to the new spacing and reset the error code. I suspect it will. However, if it does not, you should be able to hit the local autozone and have them reset the codes for you.... Also, I had the tool in had from mactools the day after I ordered it, I did not even pay for the fedex delivery, they just sent it that way.

So all told, I spent about $60 on the pads and $75 on the rotors both at genuineaudiparts.com, plus the $140 on the tool from mactools ===> $275, which is still a bunch less than the stealership wanted and now I can do them whenever I want......

My funny story about rebuilding the calipers....You've got to make sure you have NOT taken out the old pads before using the tool. When you plug this thing in, it sends a bunch of codes to the computer to see what kind of car it is dealing with. I had my calipers already off when I plugged it in because I tried to do the brakes without the tool and had not yet figured out the little torx trick I described above. In doing so, the tool caused the motor to index forward, obviously looking for the end point before retracting. With no resistance from the pads/rotors, the damn motor forced the piston right out of the caliper housing. Now my car was bleeding all over the place. Luckily none of the seals or boots were damaged, so I simply rebuilt the things. Boy was I pissed.

If you live in Connecticut and want to use the tool, send me a note offline....

I ordered the pads today and have vag-com. I guess we'll see if I have the right tools :P

I just did my front brakes this past weekend...I got all the parts for the rear but when I took out the pads (at 65k miles), they are barely worn. So I left them.

I do have the vag-com cable and reading through the procedures in the bentley I could not figure out how to retract the electronic parking brake. Despite that I got the driver's side caliper off. Not sure when the need to retract the parking brake comes in....

I also could not figure out (but I didn't spend much time once I realized the brake pads were OK) how to get the rotor off...that is how to remove the caliper hanger (not sure the official name) to get the rotor free.The front rotors were loose when I removed the screw from the face - then I took out one of the 21mm bolts holding the caliper hanger and loosened the other enough to drop the rotor out - but the rear appeared to be stuck on the hub.

Maybe I will tackle the rears when I put the winter tires back on in the fall!

I just did my front brakes this past weekend...I got all the parts for the rear but when I took out the pads (at 65k miles), they are barely worn. So I left them.

I do have the vag-com cable and reading through the procedures in the bentley I could not figure out how to retract the electronic parking brake. Despite that I got the driver's side caliper off. Not sure when the need to retract the parking brake comes in....

I also could not figure out (but I didn't spend much time once I realized the brake pads were OK) how to get the rotor off...that is how to remove the caliper hanger (not sure the official name) to get the rotor free.The front rotors were loose when I removed the screw from the face - then I took out one of the 21mm bolts holding the caliper hanger and loosened the other enough to drop the rotor out - but the rear appeared to be stuck on the hub.

Maybe I will tackle the rears when I put the winter tires back on in the fall!

I could be wrong, but I believe the reason to retract the parking brake the 'official' way is to prevent an error code.
there's also an automated brake pad play adjustment every 1,000km if you don't operate the parking brake after servicing the pads.

the procedure for vag-com is here (http://forums.audiworld.com/showpost.php?p=22552071&postcount=3), although I haven't done this myself yet.

As you know, the piston in the rear caliper needs to be retracted whenever you change the pads and/or rotors. The new pads/rotors are thicker than the old ones, thus you need the piston to retract back into the caliper to give more clearance.

You can not just use a c-clamp or piston compression tool to move the piston inwards like on the fronts. This is because the parking brake motor moves lock nut behind the piston to prevent pressure alone from forcing the piston back in.

You could simply rotate the piston while pressing it in. However, the Audi rear piston has nothing to bite into so that you can safely rotate it. Most other car manufacturers have two offset holes on the face of the piston, which receive corresponding pins on caliper retacting tools. These allow you to compress and rotate at the same time.

Audi conveniently left those two holes off of the piston so you need to get the motor into reverse to pull back the lock nut (unless you use my trick from behind the caliper with the motor removed). You could put some channel-locks on the sides of the piston, but that seems a bit risky to me b/c that is the same surface where the piston boot seals against and I was not willing to take the risk of scarring that surface.

It is my understanding that when the motor has extended the lock nut a certain distance, it sends a signal to the computer that the rear brakes must be serviced. Thus, the rear pads do not need a wear sensor, since the motor takes care of that input.

You need the vag-com to turn the motor in reverse to allow pressure alone to retract the piston. Plus, you need the vag-com to reset the service code in the computer once it has been tripped by the motor.

The mactools tool does both of these functions and is incredibly simple to use. Push on to activate, then off when you are done. No fancy codes or software to learn. I am a gear head not a computer dude.

I've got 2mm left on my rears and no alarm anywhere.

Pierre,

Thanks for the link....the bently instructions appear to be specific to Audi equipment, not the vag-com - hence my confusion.

Ct-Audi...thanks for the retraction explaination...now I understand. Again, since my rear pads looked real good, I didn't bother checking out how to do thus further at the time. If I can't get the vag-com to work I can try your trick (hopefully without having to rebuild the calipers!)

Dan

My rear pads were real low and i never got a warning, i dont think the rears are monitored. The only warning i got was a squeak when braking.

My rear pads were real low and i never got a warning, i dont think the rears are monitored. The only warning i got was a squeak when braking.

only the fronts are monitored

[...]
You need the vag-com to turn the motor in reverse to allow pressure alone to retract the piston. Plus, you need the vag-com to reset the service code in the computer once it has been tripped by the motor.[...]

When I open the brake, it fails after a bit even though it does the function 10 fine. I couldn't push it in at all. I may have to do your torx stuff.

stay tuned...

Used your thread as a guide to finish my brake job. Started last week, but couldn't figure out the piston retraction process. Did not buy the tool that you did, but used the Bentley procedure you described to manually retract the piston.
First disconnect the motor from the caliper which is held on by 2 torx 30 bolts. I did not disconnect electric harness. Pull motor apart from the caliper. Use torx 40 on the center of the back side of the caliper. Turn this clockwise until it stops. There is almost no resistance on this bolt. This can be done just with the fingers.
Now compress the piston with normal clamp type tool.
After installing the pads, I temporarily slid the caliper over the pads and turned the torx 40 bolt until the piston just began to catch the pads, then backed off a fraction of a turn.
Then slid the caliper back off and re-attached the motor to the back of the caliper. Re-install caliper and you're done.
I did not have any dash brake light come on as I expected might happen. Very happy about that.
Would not have been able to do it without your post. Thanks

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I did the rear brakes on my 2005 A6 this weekend. I did not buy the Vag-com tool as I really have no desire to change any settings or anything. Also, I do not have a laptop, so moving my home PC into the garage to change my f'in brakes really did not appeal to me. Plus, the vag-com was just too much coin $275 for the cheapest version.

Rather, I simply bought the tool from Mactools.com, part No. EPB101. It is about 1/3 the cost of the vag-com but is limited to brake jobs.

Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals...... see funny story below for the reason why I had to rebuild the caliper....

Now, since I had the resetting tool in hand, I can not tell what my little proceedure will do, after installing the new rotors/pads. Namely, I do not know if it the computer will recalibrate the motor to the new spacing and reset the error code. I suspect it will. However, if it does not, you should be able to hit the local autozone and have them reset the codes for you.... Also, I had the tool in had from mactools the day after I ordered it, I did not even pay for the fedex delivery, they just sent it that way.

So all told, I spent about $60 on the pads and $75 on the rotors both at genuineaudiparts.com, plus the $140 on the tool from mactools ===> $275, which is still a bunch less than the stealership wanted and now I can do them whenever I want......

My funny story about rebuilding the calipers....You've got to make sure you have NOT taken out the old pads before using the tool. When you plug this thing in, it sends a bunch of codes to the computer to see what kind of car it is dealing with. I had my calipers already off when I plugged it in because I tried to do the brakes without the tool and had not yet figured out the little torx trick I described above. In doing so, the tool caused the motor to index forward, obviously looking for the end point before retracting. With no resistance from the pads/rotors, the damn motor forced the piston right out of the caliper housing. Now my car was bleeding all over the place. Luckily none of the seals or boots were damaged, so I simply rebuilt the things. Boy was I pissed.

If you live in Connecticut and want to use the tool, send me a note offline....

Hi i dont live in Conn. I live in westchester county ny. but I would like to talk to you if you will my # 914 473 4592 (Teddy) thanks

[QUOTE=lilzane;23997553]Hi i dont live in Conn. I live in westchester county ny. but I would like to talk to you.

Could someone that has the Bentely manual for this vehicle post the actual procedure (as in copy/paste) for adjusting (without Vag-Com) the parking brake motor while doing a brake job. So far I've read 3 different versions of it on Audi forums. It would be great to have a sticky or "real" tutorial on doing brakes on the different models. Some of the posts have wrong or very vague info that could be dangerous and wastes a lot of time. Especially with brakes I think that the Mods and the more knowledgeable members should modify and update them to keep the info correct.

If you check out the Ross Tech site (www.Ross-Tech.com), they list the directions for performing the rear brake pad replacment. But you definately need to use VAG–COM or a VAG scanner to retract the parking brake fro replacing the pads. If you don't you'll end up replacing a lot more parts and paying a lot more $s than the VAG–COM will cost you.

Now compress the piston with normal clamp type tool.

What exactly is it that you refer to here?

Can you please list the exact tools needed for this procedure..
With only the torx sockets as explained in the Bentley

If you check out the Ross Tech site (www.Ross-Tech.com), they list the directions for performing the rear brake pad replacment. But you definately need to use VAG–COM or a VAG scanner to retract the parking brake fro replacing the pads. If you don't you'll end up replacing a lot more parts and paying a lot more $s than the VAG–COM will cost you.

So your saying that the method in the Bentley manual (I have NOT read it myself) will harm something? In this thread there is posted a way to retract the piston without the tool, I was hoping that the persons that have the manual and posted the info would paste the exact directions in the forum. I used that method and it seems to be working fine. Are there any Audi techs on this forum that could verify that it works and is safe to use. The only real questions are whether the piston will self adjust back to the correct position, and does it set a stored code. It was very easy to do and you don't harm anything in the process.

I could upload the images, but you'll get the basics. Notice that it clearly states to use VAS 5051 diagnostic system for replacing pads.
================================================== ==============

Audi > C6 > 2005-2007
Brake System
46 - Removal and Installation.Rear Brake PadsSpecial tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Torque wrench V.A.G 1332
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Socket T40065
Socket T40066

Removing
Note:
* When removing, mark brake pads that will be used again. Install in the same position, otherwise braking effect will be uneven!
* Operating the electromechanical parking brake again after a long drive is recommended.
* Brake pad play is automatically adjusted every 1000 km if the EPB is not operated in this distance.
* The brake disc is secured with a Phillips head bolt.

* Raise vehicle.
* Remove wheels.
* With ignition off, connect Vehicle Diagnosis, Testing and Information System VAS 5051 to 16-pin diagnostic connector on vehicle and select parking brake with "Address word" 53.
Note:
* Ignition on
* Release parking brake
* Coding check and reported if necessary.
* DTC memory interrogated, errors shown corrected and DTC memory erased.

* Select function "53 - Parking brake" .
* Select function "04 - Basic setting" .
* Select function "10 to code after replacing control module" .

The request to enter a display group number appears in display field - 1 - .
An entry keypad is shown in display field - 2 - .
When installing new or old brake pads
Using entry keypad, enter in display field - 2 - the "7" for "Display group number one and confirm by pressing " Q button. (Reset pistons)
To exit entry template, press green Arrow button at lower left.
Note:
Ignition off
The brake disc is secured with a Phillips head bolt - 1 - .
Remove tires
Remove attachment bolts from brake caliper housing, to do so counter-hold guide pins.
Note:
Actuator or brake system connector must not be disconnected. (otherwise, a fault will be saved)
Do not pull on brake hose or electrical wiring.
* Remove brake caliper sideways or hang on body.
* Remove brake pads
* Remove guide clamps
* Press brake pistons back by hand.
Note:
To remove brake discs on 16" brake systems, brake carrier must be removed.
Check brake discs, replace if necessary.

Remove brake carrier:
* To remove brake carrier lower connection, use Socket T40065 for the left side and Socket T40066 for the right side.

Installing
* Clean brake caliper with mineral spirits exclusively.
* Insert brake pad retaining springs
* Insert brake pads.
* Make sure brake pads are located correctly in anti-rattle springs - arrows - .

Note:
The next step only applies to vehicles on which the brake carrier must be disassembled for removal.
* To install lower connection, use Socket T40065 or Socket T40066 .
* Secure brake caliper housing using new self-locking bolts.
Note:
The repair kit includes four self-locking hex bolts which must be installed in all cases.

* The request to enter a display group number appears in display field - 1 - .
* An entry keypad is shown in display field - 2 - .
* Using entry keypad, enter in display field - 2 - the "6" for "Display group number one and confirm by pressing " Q button. (guide pistons together)
* To exit entry template, press green Arrow button at lower left.
* Mounting wheels Wheel and Tire Guide - Repair Group 44
* Check brake fluid level, and fill if necessary.

This is the part of the OPs post that refrences the procedure that I was asking about in the manual...

"Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals......"

Again, are there any Audi Techs. on the forum that could chime in on this?

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I did the rear brakes on my 2005 A6 this weekend. I did not buy the Vag-com tool as I really have no desire to change any settings or anything. Also, I do not have a laptop, so moving my home PC into the garage to change my f'in brakes really did not appeal to me. Plus, the vag-com was just too much coin $275 for the cheapest version.

Rather, I simply bought the tool from Mactools.com, part No. EPB101. It is about 1/3 the cost of the vag-com but is limited to brake jobs.

Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals...... see funny story below for the reason why I had to rebuild the caliper....

Now, since I had the resetting tool in hand, I can not tell what my little proceedure will do, after installing the new rotors/pads. Namely, I do not know if it the computer will recalibrate the motor to the new spacing and reset the error code. I suspect it will. However, if it does not, you should be able to hit the local autozone and have them reset the codes for you.... Also, I had the tool in had from mactools the day after I ordered it, I did not even pay for the fedex delivery, they just sent it that way.

So all told, I spent about $60 on the pads and $75 on the rotors both at genuineaudiparts.com, plus the $140 on the tool from mactools ===> $275, which is still a bunch less than the stealership wanted and now I can do them whenever I want......

If you live in Connecticut and want to use the tool, send me a note offline....

Would it be possible to post the exact procedeure from the Bentley manual? It would be nice to get this resolved before the thread dies.

There is a cheaper, easier way than either tool, ECS has this:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C6_A6-Quattro-V6_3.2L/Search/V-Checker/ES9950/

Just follow the procedure posted for the VCDS/Ross Tech tool (or basically the true VAG tool instructions). This is a full vag tool, stand alone. The only issue with it is the interface takes a little getting use to (in my opinion the buttons are backwards, but it works, and the menu of items isn't in numerical order (you just have to search through). But for $110(!), it's a full stand alone vag tool, easy to use, does everything the VCDS does (except for storing data, you can only view real-time).

I did the rears on my A6 a few months ago with this tool, and worked like a champ. (And for $110 it was easier than taking the calipers apart), with this tool I did the rears in about 30 minutes total (with new roters installed to boot).

There is a cheaper, easier way than either tool, ECS has this:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C6_A6-Quattro-V6_3.2L/Search/V-Checker/ES9950/

Just follow the procedure posted for the VCDS/Ross Tech tool (or basically the true VAG tool instructions). This is a full vag tool, stand alone. The only issue with it is the interface takes a little getting use to (in my opinion the buttons are backwards, but it works, and the menu of items isn't in numerical order (you just have to search through). But for $110(!), it's a full stand alone vag tool, easy to use, does everything the VCDS does (except for storing data, you can only view real-time).

I did the rears on my A6 a few months ago with this tool, and worked like a champ. (And for $110 it was easier than taking the calipers apart), with this tool I did the rears in about 30 minutes total (with new roters installed to boot).

I would rather put that $110. towards a Vag-Com. It would be really easy if someone would post the procedeure from the manual. The OP said that it was used after rebuilding the calipers so I would think that it would work and be safe. Maybe I'll have to try another Audi forum or PM the OP.

Also, you're not really "taking the calipers apart". You take 2 small screws out and turn another, it's very easy, you have the calipers in hand anyway. I'll bet that I could do it faster than someone can hook up the scanner and go through the menu and open the caliper pistons and then click on something else when the job is done to turn the pistons back in. The question is what's the proper way to do it by the book.

I guess this thread's ending without the info being posted from the manual...........oh well.

I guess this thread's ending without the info being posted from the manual...........oh well.

It was posted on page 2.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A6_(4F)_Parking_Brake

I would like to buy the v-checker pro also for 2006 A6 rear pad replacement. This link must be the instructions although I have never used the vag-com.

Sorry, After read more closely, the parking brake procedure was not what Tanket was asking for.

There is a cheaper, easier way than either tool, ECS has this:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C6_A6-Quattro-V6_3.2L/Search/V-Checker/ES9950/

Just follow the procedure posted for the VCDS/Ross Tech tool (or basically the true VAG tool instructions). This is a full vag tool, stand alone. The only issue with it is the interface takes a little getting use to (in my opinion the buttons are backwards, but it works, and the menu of items isn't in numerical order (you just have to search through). But for $110(!), it's a full stand alone vag tool, easy to use, does everything the VCDS does (except for storing data, you can only view real-time).

I did the rears on my A6 a few months ago with this tool, and worked like a champ. (And for $110 it was easier than taking the calipers apart), with this tool I did the rears in about 30 minutes total (with new roters installed to boot).

This sounds like a nice tool, but if you visit the ECS website it says nothing about using this tool to retract the rear brake pistons. So I contacted ECS customer service to ask whether it can do that. This is their reply:

"Thanks for the inquiry. Unfortunately the the v-checker can not perform that job. You will need a vag-com to do that. I have also seen a write up on the vw forums which shows you a DIY on how to do that without a vag-com. I believe you have to use a jumper wire from the battery. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask.

Best,
David Coleman - Sales Representative"

Based on this, I feel less certain about the V-checker. Emkawarrior, you obviously have it figured out - can you please post the procedure that you used? Thanks! Also, anyone know what he's talk ing about with respect to using a jumper from the battery?

Gonna tackle this in the next few days on my '06 D3 A8- assume the vag-com instructions are the same... guess I'll find out! Figure I'll do the fronts first as they should be pretty standard, without any damned electronic parking brake to complicate matters.

Sorry, After read more closely, the parking brake procedure was not what Tanket was asking for.

No but thanks for trying....I'll PM the OP and the other poster that read the procedeure from the manual.

No but thanks for trying....I'll PM the OP and the other poster that read the procedeure from the manual.

Procedure for removing the e-brake if this is what your after. Yes you can take it off and then retract the piston with what looks like a hex or torx bit (they call it the brake caliper adjuster screw). You still have to manually push the piston back with your hand after you rotate the adjuster screw, however. Would be much easier/safer just to borrow someone's vag for a day though (vaglocator.com) and do it the proper way as such:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2785592&highlight=DIY+BRAKE

Installation.
Electromechanical Parking Brake Actuator
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Removing
Note:
Ignition on
Release parking brake
Coding check and reported if necessary.
DTC memory interrogated, errors shown corrected and DTC memory erased.
Ignition off
Raise vehicle.
Remove wheels.
Note:
Ignition must be switched off for at least 30 seconds when disconnecting connector! (this is the wiring)
Clean entire area around connector and actuator/brake caliper.
Disconnect actuator connector - 1 - .
Remove both actuator bolts (Torx 30) - 1 - .
Remove actuator in direction of - arrow -
Remove sealing ring with a suitable tool.
Ensure ring groove of the seal and contact surface of parking brake actuator do not become damaged.
Note:
Do not use any tools with sharp edges.
Clean ring groove and contact surfaces if dirty. Only use brake cleaner
Installing
Install new seal
Turn brake caliper adjuster screw back a bit.
Note:
This makes it easier to install the actuator.
Item - 1 - position actuator as shown
Note:
Ensure seal is seated correctly
Item - 2 - rotate actuator so bolt hole - a - and threads in brake caliper housing - b - are brought into alignment.
Ensure parking brake actuator is seated flush against brake caliper.
Attach both actuator bolts (Torx 30). Torque specification 12 Nm.
Position bolts by hand and screw in a few turns. If threads are damaged, entire brake caliper must be replaced!
Note:
Only insert connector by hand to avoid damaging it.
Ensure connectors on vehicle side and actuator side are free of dirt and damage.
Install connector.
Mounting wheels Wheel and Tire Guide - Repair Group 44
After replacing actuator, basic setting 10 must be performed with the vehicle diagnostic tester in the EPB function.
For this, use Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051 .
Then select basic section 10 under "Function" VAS 5051, Connecting and Selecting Functions . or
Under chassis (Rep. Gr. 01:34-65)
Brake system (Rep. Gr. 01:45-46)
01- On Board Diagnostic (OBD) capable systems
53 - Parking brake
J540 - Electro-Mechanical Parking Brake Control Module
J540 - Basic setting (3 Electromechanical parking brake function test)
Copyright © 2008 Audi of America, Inc. and Bentley Publishers. All rights reserved. Last processed:

Procedure for servicing the caliper:

Rear Brake Caliper, Servicing Note:
When performing repairs install all of the parts supplied in repair kit.
Apply thin coat of assembly paste G 052 150 A2 to brake cylinders, pistons and seals.
1 - Self-locking bolt, 35 Nm
Always replace
When loosening and tightening, counter-hold at guide pin
2 - Brake caliper housing with actuator
Pre-bleed caliper housing after repairing Brake System Bleeding
3 - Bleeder valve, 10 Nm
4 - Dust cap
Push onto bleeder valve
5 - Sealing ring
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
6 - Pressure nut
To operate parking brake
7 - Pistons
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
8 - Guide pins
Grease before pulling on protective cap
9 - Protective cap
Pull onto brake carrier and guide pin
10 - Brake carrier with guide pins and protective cap
Supplied as pre-assembled replacement part with sufficient grease on guide pins
If protective caps or guide pins are damaged, install repair kit. Use supplied grease packet to lubricate guide pins.
11 - Protective cap
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
Pull onto piston with outer sealing lip
.Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and InstallingSpecial tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Torque wrench V.A.G 1332
Piston resetting tool T10145
Disassembly wedge 3409
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Removing
Remove pistons as far as possible from brake caliper
Force piston out of brake caliper housing using compressed air.
Note:
When removing, make sure that surface of cylinder is not damaged.
Place a wooden board into recess of the caliper housing so it is not damaged.
Remove old seal from brake caliper with Trim Removal Wedge 3409 .
Installing
Install new seal in brake caliper.
Place new protective cap on brake pistons as shown.
Install pressure nut to dimension - a - 15 mm.
Insert protective cap in brake caliper groove. Use Trim Removal Wedge 3409 .
Carefully slide brake piston into brake caliper. When doing so move brake piston. Brake piston must be guided over pressure nut, this is only possible in four positions.
After brake piston has been guided onto pressure nut, press it as far as stop into brake caliper.
Note:
Ensure pressure nut is not damaged.
Install pressure nut clockwise as far as stop.
Ensure rubber makes contact around brake caliper housing - arrows -
Press piston into brake caliper by hand
Note:
The inner sealing lip of the protective cap slips into the groove on the piston.
Copyright © 2008 Audi of America, Inc. and Bentley Publishers. All rights reserved. Last processed:

Chip8, Thanks for the info from ecstuning about the vchecker pro not working for the brake retract. You saved me from some aggravation!

Procedure for servicing the caliper:

Rear Brake Caliper, Servicing Note:
When performing repairs install all of the parts supplied in repair kit.
Apply thin coat of assembly paste G 052 150 A2 to brake cylinders, pistons and seals.
1 - Self-locking bolt, 35 Nm
Always replace
When loosening and tightening, counter-hold at guide pin
2 - Brake caliper housing with actuator
Pre-bleed caliper housing after repairing Brake System Bleeding
3 - Bleeder valve, 10 Nm
4 - Dust cap
Push onto bleeder valve
5 - Sealing ring
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
6 - Pressure nut
To operate parking brake
7 - Pistons
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
8 - Guide pins
Grease before pulling on protective cap
9 - Protective cap
Pull onto brake carrier and guide pin
10 - Brake carrier with guide pins and protective cap
Supplied as pre-assembled replacement part with sufficient grease on guide pins
If protective caps or guide pins are damaged, install repair kit. Use supplied grease packet to lubricate guide pins.
11 - Protective cap
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
Pull onto piston with outer sealing lip
.Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and InstallingSpecial tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Torque wrench V.A.G 1332
Piston resetting tool T10145
Disassembly wedge 3409
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Removing
Remove pistons as far as possible from brake caliper
Force piston out of brake caliper housing using compressed air.
Note:
When removing, make sure that surface of cylinder is not damaged.
Place a wooden board into recess of the caliper housing so it is not damaged.
Remove old seal from brake caliper with Trim Removal Wedge 3409 .
Installing
Install new seal in brake caliper.
Place new protective cap on brake pistons as shown.
Install pressure nut to dimension - a - 15 mm.
Insert protective cap in brake caliper groove. Use Trim Removal Wedge 3409 .
Carefully slide brake piston into brake caliper. When doing so move brake piston. Brake piston must be guided over pressure nut, this is only possible in four positions.
After brake piston has been guided onto pressure nut, press it as far as stop into brake caliper.
Note:
Ensure pressure nut is not damaged.
Install pressure nut clockwise as far as stop.
Ensure rubber makes contact around brake caliper housing - arrows -
Press piston into brake caliper by hand
Note:
The inner sealing lip of the protective cap slips into the groove on the piston.
Copyright © 2008 Audi of America, Inc. and Bentley Publishers. All rights reserved. Last processed:

The OP said, "Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals......"

That's the procedure that I'm asking about and he says that it came out of the Bentely Manual. All I'm asking is for someone to post/paste the exact words from the manual. I would like to know what follows the first part that he posted, do they need the Vag-Com to finish the job properly or do the motors self adjust without it? Also, when you have the wheels off and the brakes apart on your day off and the car needs to be used the next day, it's definitely NOT easier to borrow (from how far away?) a Vag-Com than doing this simple procedeure and finishing the job.

It was posted on page 2.

Not how someone did the job but the actual procedeure from the manual...........

Also, when you have the wheels off and the brakes apart on your day off and the car needs to be used the next day, it's definitely NOT easier to borrow (from how far away?) a Vag-Com than doing this simple procedeure and finishing the job.

I can't answer the question about self adjustment but the above posts are from Bentley.

I would rather put that $110. towards a Vag-Com. It would be really easy if someone would post the procedeure from the manual. The OP said that it was used after rebuilding the calipers so I would think that it would work and be safe. Maybe I'll have to try another Audi forum or PM the OP.
.
I dunno, I've seen too many Servos throw errors after being removed over my lifetime. (And one of my lifetimes was repairing robotics, so I've seen a ton of servos!) As for the $110.... really I had a VAGCOM in my A4 days, and really prefer the vagchecker... I never used the mapping, and having to use the laptop was a pita sometimes. I keep my vagchecker pro in it's nice pouch in the glovebox... nice to always have a vag tool along for the ride.

I dunno, I've seen too many Servos throw errors after being removed over my lifetime. (And one of my lifetimes was repairing robotics, so I've seen a ton of servos!) As for the $110.... really I had a VAGCOM in my A4 days, and really prefer the vagchecker... I never used the mapping, and having to use the laptop was a pita sometimes. I keep my vagchecker pro in it's nice pouch in the glovebox... nice to always have a vag tool along for the ride.

Hope you share it with fellow Audi nuts...if you go to your regional Audi club gatherings that is. The V-Checker (http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edoc/VW-Manual.pdf) certainly seems a more convenient alternative to VC..mainly no pc needed and comes with the proper cable :).

I dunno, I've seen too many Servos throw errors after being removed over my lifetime. (And one of my lifetimes was repairing robotics, so I've seen a ton of servos!) As for the $110.... really I had a VAGCOM in my A4 days, and really prefer the vagchecker... I never used the mapping, and having to use the laptop was a pita sometimes. I keep my vagchecker pro in it's nice pouch in the glovebox... nice to always have a vag tool along for the ride.

Good to know, thanks. You're not really removing the servo motor, just taking the whole assy. off and turning a screw. Nothing besides the plastic housing screws and the internal screw that you turn are being touched. Even if you removed the motor, assuming it was good and you don't abuse it or get it dirty, I don't see any reason for it to throw an error. It all hinges (not literally) on weather the piston readjusts itself and/or what position do you put it in after backing it off. Some day we will know for sure! I'll try asking an Audi tech that I know..............