Nothing new here but for anyone looking to hardwire a radar detector in their car, it is very easy. All in, took me about 20 minutes (including searching for a switchable fuse):

1. Using a bone tool (or similar implement), run the hardwire cord from your chosen location down the front pillar, around the corner where the windshield meets the dash and back along the dash until you reach the driver's side fuse box. The bone tool does a great job of pushing the cord into the thin gap without cutting the outer sheath:

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install1Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install1Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

2. Find a suitable location for the ground wire:

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install2Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install2Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

3. Plug-in the cord to the connector:

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install3Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install3Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

4. Using a TAPA Circuit (ATO, not mini), connect the lead to the end of your hard-wire connector:

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install4Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install4Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

5. Insert a 7.5 amp fuse into the applicable slot of the TAPA circuit and tuck all the wiring in above the fuse block:

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install6Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install6Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

6. I used the unused slot #10 which in my car is labeled "Gearshift Gate":

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install7Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install7Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

7. Replace the cover and you're done!

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install8Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install8Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install9Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install9Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Regards,

Derek<ul><li><a href="http://www.gizmos-gadgets.com/product_info.php/cPath/7_77/products_id/96?osCsid=6cacb86bd391736f1d1ac5912e118b88">TAPA Circuit Dual ATO Fuseholder</a></li></ul>

comment: your ride is f'ing hot in red.
question: I can't figure out your final resting location, but I take it its not to just the right of the mirror - where did you put it and is that area a switched hot? I am doing mine tomorrow, of course after I already got a radar ticket the other weekend, phuck - anyhow I usuall just strip the phone cord and put on side on a switched fuse and the other to ground, no special connectors or anything.

of the car - you can just make out the suction cups in the last photograph.

I've used the TAPA connectors for every detector install I've done in the last few years - they are cheap, safe and allow you to tap into an existing fuse space if it is already in use.

The "Gearshift Gate" space (#10 on the driver's side fuse block) is indeed switched.

Regards,

Derek

I have the hidden interface on my dash, to the top left of the Nav screen so i can see the arrows.

I placed my V1 underneath the rear view mirror, installed same way. I wanted to place it on top of the rear view mirror but it didn't fit...

... but also, your placement, does it see through the rear windshield? because it sits lower than the front windshield, and wondering if that would decrease the radar performance.

Well I followed bb vign's photos on hardwiring my Valentine 1 to S5 to a tee except for one thing. I put in the same 5 AMP fuse in slot #10 instead of the 7.5 AMP. Now I can't get power to the unit even if I use the 12V cigarette lighter and I checked it with another device to make sure it works. Did I blow a fuse in the Valentine 1 unit itself. I just got both the car and radar so I guess I have to return for repair to the V1 guys. Any thoughts.

I am not very good at electronics, but followed bb vign's V1 install on my S5 to a tee. However, instead of using a 7.5 amp fuse, I used the 5 AMP that was already in slot 10 (gearshift gate). I never got any power to the V1 and now it's completely dead. No power even with a cigarette lighter. Did I kill the thing? Any help would be great.

Hey do you guys know how hardwiring a v1 would affect warranty?

Hey do you guys know how hardwiring a v1 would affect warranty?

Shouldn't be a problem because it's easily reversible. You are not modding the car.

Is that rust on the frame?

Will any of these work?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=fuse+tap&x=0&y=0

I saw one review talking about getting the right size to fit into the fuse box for your car. Aren't all fuses in cars a standard size?

Do you have a pic of the remote disply?

Do you have a pic of the remote disply?

yes can you please post pic of remote display?

Do you have a pic of the remote disply?

I didn't install the remote display although IIRC, some folks have used the ashtray.

Will any of these work?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=fuse+tap&x=0&y=0

I saw one review talking about getting the right size to fit into the fuse box for your car. Aren't all fuses in cars a standard size?

Yes, there are two types of fuses: ATO and mini (ATO is larger). The fuses in the fuse block on the left-hand side of the dash are ATO so this one should work:

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1254220714&sr=8-4

Good luck!

It hasn't been an issue for you that the V1 interferes with your visor?

It hasn't been an issue for you that the V1 interferes with your visor?

Nope - I can bring the visor down to nearly 90 degrees from the angle of the windshield which has been more than enough so far.

Well I followed bb vign's photos on hardwiring my Valentine 1 to S5 to a tee except for one thing. I put in the same 5 AMP fuse in slot #10 instead of the 7.5 AMP. Now I can't get power to the unit even if I use the 12V cigarette lighter and I checked it with another device to make sure it works. Did I blow a fuse in the Valentine 1 unit itself. I just got both the car and radar so I guess I have to return for repair to the V1 guys. Any thoughts.

sounds like you damaged v1. ouch...

Yes, there are two types of fuses: ATO and mini (ATO is larger). The fuses in the fuse block on the left-hand side of the dash are ATO so this one should work:

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1254220714&sr=8-4

Good luck!

Thank you for explaining. Much appreciated.

sounds like you damaged v1. ouch...

Possibly but did you check the fuse itself for the V1 hardwire kit? IIRC there is an in-line fuse on this cord and the 12V power cord as well. I'm hoping it is that simple!

Possibly but did you check the fuse itself for the V1 hardwire kit? IIRC there is an in-line fuse on this cord and the 12V power cord as well. I'm hoping it is that simple!
It should be that easy, as those fuses are there to protect the V1.

Very nice - just the way hardwiring should be done. Much better than tapping dome light wires.

I used this for my hardwire: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=071-585#

Also, I've put the Concealed Display unit on the dash itself. Just below the odometer - using super glue and velcro. That way I don't have to look up/down while driving to figure out where the warning is coming from. I can take a pic if someone is interested.

That way I don't have to look up/down while driving to figure out where the warning is coming from. I can take a pic if someone is interested.

can you please take a picture? i am interested in doing it the same way (which my mazda has also).

can you please take a picture? i am interested in doing it the same way (which my mazda has also).

Here you go. The V1 (main unit) is on the visor because we have a stupid law in CA that doesn't allow you to put suction cups on the windshield (law was amended last month to now allow gps thingies on lower portion of windshield).

The visor works great and no one knows that there is one in the car. I have hardwired using the fusebox on the driver side panel. The connector which connected CD and main unit if below (where the hood pop lever sits) and the CD wire is snaked through the steering column. Any questions - PM me or find me in the A6 forum.

Unfortunately, the DIS for the A5 is larger than that in your A6. There isn't room to put the remote display in that location without blocking part of the DIS.

Which is a shame, since that is where I had the remote display in my A4, and it was a great location for it.

Unfortunately, the DIS for the A5 is larger than that in your A6. There isn't room to put the remote display in that location without blocking part of the DIS.

Which is a shame, since that is where I had the remote display in my A4, and it was a great location for it.

I'll post pics as soon as I can, but I mounted my remote display right on the steering wheel column (velcro) and it's perfect in that location. No drilling, gluing etc. Doesn't block the dash displays at all. V1 unit is on visor. Biggest issue was V1 falling off of visor bracket when passenger moved visor down but a little electrical tape solved that. I like the visor mount better than window mount cause no matter how high up on the window you mount it, it's still visible from the outside.

Yes, there are two types of fuses: ATO and mini (ATO is larger). The fuses in the fuse block on the left-hand side of the dash are ATO so this one should work:

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1254220714&sr=8-4

Good luck!

how do you put the 2 pronged thing from V1 connector into the ATO which has a round plug? Thanks.

how do you put the 2 pronged thing from V1 connector into the ATO which has a round plug? Thanks.

oops not the prong (the ground), but the other plug from V1 connector...

oops not the prong (the ground), but the other plug from V1 connector...

Assuming you mean the two wires from the V1 hardwire kit? If so, the black ground wire is connected to an appropriate ground (see my pic on the first page of the thread). The red wire from the V1 hardwire kit is simply connected to the red wire from your "ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit". IIRC, all I did was use the supplied butt connector, crimp, wrap in electrical tape and done.

Assuming you mean the two wires from the V1 hardwire kit? If so, the black ground wire is connected to an appropriate ground (see my pic on the first page of the thread). The red wire from the V1 hardwire kit is simply connected to the red wire from your "ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit". IIRC, all I did was use the supplied butt connector, crimp, wrap in electrical tape and done.

thanks...yeah i didn't see the blue crimp that came with it.

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3342/p5180037.jpg

here's my install. took way longer than 20 mins. i have no idea how that OP had his wire so cleanly installed when it travels from a pillar to dash. i cannot shove that wire down so there is a 2 inch part that i can see a little.

also i don't know how he got that ground wire in place. i used the bolt above it and put a nut around the bolt to hold ground wire in place.

concealed display was run down from fuse box to where the dead pedal is. tucked around dead pedal underneath dash and run up to steering column. i put the thingy that V1 includes to mount to cigarette adapter i believe on so that i could position the telephone cord better towards the back.

works great and display is very easy to see.

i have no idea how that OP had his wire so cleanly installed when it travels from a pillar to dash. i cannot shove that wire down so there is a 2 inch part that i can see a little.

Bone tool is the key!

also i don't know how he got that ground wire in place. i used the bolt above it and put a nut around the bolt to hold ground wire in place.

The install was so long ago I can't remember the specifics but I may have used a different ring terminal.

Nice install!

Bone tool is the key!



The install was so long ago I can't remember the specifics but I may have used a different ring terminal.

Nice install!

Where do I find this bone tool? At home depot? Is it called a bone tool -- they had no idea what it was.

i have no idea how that OP had his wire so cleanly installed when it travels from a pillar to dash. i cannot shove that wire down so there is a 2 inch part that i can see a little.
I ran mine a bit differently. I brought the wire around the A-pillar near the roof (tucked in at the top seam of the side airbag cover) and then ran it down the door side of the pillar. It tucks nicely under the rubber door gasket. It was easier than trying to jam it in along the window (which is tight) and trying to make that sharp turn when it meets the dash. None of my wire is visible, excepting the short run from the headliner to the V1 itself.

Where do I find this bone tool? At home depot? Is it called a bone tool -- they had no idea what it was.

http://www.ipdusa.com/Universal-Products/Miscellanous-Tools/Bone-Tool/p-202-620-197/

I ran mine a bit differently. I brought the wire around the A-pillar near the roof (tucked in at the top seam of the side airbag cover) and then ran it down the door side of the pillar. It tucks nicely under the rubber door gasket. It was easier than trying to jam it in along the window (which is tight) and trying to make that sharp turn when it meets the dash. None of my wire is visible, excepting the short run from the headliner to the V1 itself.

hmmmm thanks i might have to do that. it should be faster too. good thing pulling wire is easier than tucking wire.

Does anyone know of a switched power cable in the dome/overhead light compartment the V1 can splice into?

I know tapping into the fuse box is the ideal method, but I'd like to avoid running a cord all the way down there.

Does anyone know of a switched power cable in the dome/overhead light compartment the V1 can splice into?

I know tapping into the fuse box is the ideal method, but I'd like to avoid running a cord all the way down there.
A few folks have done it, so I know it's possible. Unfortunately I can't help you with guidance.

http://www.ipdusa.com/Universal-Products/Miscellanous-Tools/Bone-Tool/p-202-620-197/


I just ordered one from here because that one is out of stock...

http://www.customcrops.com/product_info.php?cPath=77&products_id=231125985&cvsfa=1586&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=323331313235393835


Should do the trick, right?

I have a s5 with a V1, an i am curious how you use the visor for your radar? It seemed to me that you cant get a clear view out the front or rear window without the visor tilted down a little bit.

I just ordered the V1 and remote display from Valentine1, and I'm wondering if someone can point out the exact thing I'll need to order to accomplish the installation.

1) Fuse Tap. Will this one work? It's rated for 10A (see picture below).

2) I also got a bone tool ready. Thanks for the very useful info on this tool.

3) Do I need to purchase any fuse? Or the V1 package already has that in there?

Thanks very much for the help!!!

You should be all set - good luck!

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3342/p5180037.jpg

here's my install. took way longer than 20 mins. i have no idea how that OP had his wire so cleanly installed when it travels from a pillar to dash. i cannot shove that wire down so there is a 2 inch part that i can see a little.

also i don't know how he got that ground wire in place. i used the bolt above it and put a nut around the bolt to hold ground wire in place.

concealed display was run down from fuse box to where the dead pedal is. tucked around dead pedal underneath dash and run up to steering column. i put the thingy that V1 includes to mount to cigarette adapter i believe on so that i could position the telephone cord better towards the back.

works great and display is very easy to see.

Is that a right angle telephone cord? If so, where did you get that? My biggest problem with the telephone cords used on the V1 is that they protrude out so far from the unit itself and makes for a less clean install.

You should be all set - good luck!


Thank you Sir!!!

4. Using a TAPA Circuit (ATO, not mini), connect the lead to the end of your hard-wire connector:

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/?action=view¤t=install4Medium.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/lakid042/install4Medium.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

5. Insert a 7.5 amp fuse into the applicable slot of the TAPA circuit and tuck all the wiring in above the fuse block>

I'm assuming I need to purchase this 7.5A fuse separately (not supplied in my V1 package)? Please advice.

thanks.

dK

I think you'll need a mini fuse version but those add a fuse makes things easy.

I already bought the add-a-fuse thingy. I'm assuming I'll also purchase this 7.5A fuse tomorrow for me to complete the installation.

I think you'll need a mini fuse version but those add a fuse makes things easy.

Nope - ATO, not mini.

Nope - ATO, not mini.

Got done with the installation on Thursday night. Mount the V1 just on top of the rear view mirror (toward driver side). Still need to decide where to mount the remote display.

For people who wants to ground the V1 to the bolt that's in the fuse box on driver side, you'll need a metric M8 nut. I found it out the hard way (drove my car to local hardware store and had to buy/return 3 times before I found the match. They wouldn't let me just run to my car to test it out, and they have a separate return counter which will not check out item for me).

Thanks all for the help!!

For people who wants to ground the V1 to the bolt that's in the fuse box on driver side, you'll need a metric M8 nut. I found it out the hard way (drove my car to local hardware store and had to buy/return 3 times before I found the match. They wouldn't let me just run to my car to test it out, and they have a separate return counter which will not check out item for me).
I just used an adjustable wrench. ;)

I just used an adjustable wrench. ;)

I tried to do the same with a standard adjustable ranch and fialed miserably. Any easier spots for grounding in the fuse box? i tried to screws close to the plastic panel, did not work.
Or I need a new wrench! :rolleyes: