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dynos. You may have fared OK in the testing below. Thanks.

Hyperflow induction kit, APR downpipes, and Milltek non-resonated catback exhaust?! (this is assuming 1.28 multiplier to get from whp to bhp.

wow! what exactly is this "Hyperflow induction kit"?

before we could to a bone stock run so I was upset about it. The dyno was broken for about 3 months so we were screwed and I wasnt waiting around. Luckily this dyno is used for testing of several new products to the market on multiple Audi vehicles that have all been baselined including several of my other Audi vehicles I have had with me. Several S4 cars as well. We actually had a B7 S4 sitting up there just today. Given the dozens of baselines it appears the dyno loses an average of 22% drivetrain loss on the quatro manual cars.

It is a venturi metal adapter that goes to an enlarged conical intake cone with interior and exterior pleats then heatshielded from the engine compartment and grabbing air from the OEM front snorkel and the fender. It is similar to many intakes out there. Keep in mind, I have a new fuel filter in the car and am using a light 0w-30 oil with 44lbs of reduced weight on the front brakes and 35lbs reduced in wheel weight. Not sure if that made a difference but perhaps.

FWIW, I believe the biggest gains are coming from the APR downpipes with their very high flow 200cpsi cats. For example, there was another S4 there today with the Milltek downpipes/cats on it and the sound was night and day difference although we had the same milltek catback on the car.

You've got some nice numbers. If your dyno loss of 22% is correct, then you're making the same power as a stock RS4.

but having said that who knows if you lose 22% on stock cars if it is really fair to add that 22% to the modified cars. Its what we all have done so at least it is consistent which is good but who knows how accurate it is. I like to do it to give me an idea but then maybe chop 5% or 10% off of the resultant number just to be conservative.

As Dave mentioned I am using a 0w-30 Castrol European Formula right now, but changing it out every 2-3K miles. I may try a new oil coming out by motul this year called the 0w-30 x-lite.

the exhaust and chip was on the car. I'm not sure if the intake was on yet. I'd also like to take another 100lbs off the car replacing the front seats and I have yet to run it on the 17" race rims.

At the high end it's pretty even, which is why the HP tops out at about the same level. Low end seems to be improved by those larger valves in the S4 engine.

So, you haven't changed out the stock headers yet, have you? A custom exhaust header with a 4-2-1 design might just eeek out a bit more torque, and clean up the flow even more.

GC shouldn't provide any sort of HP improvement, since it sits in the mid 30 range at 100C. Redline 5W-20 might be interesting to try for a dyno run. For a 20W it's pretty solid, with an HTHS of 3.3. Run your current setup and oil, then change to the Redline and run again and see if there's a measureable difference. You ought to see 1-2%. Unless the oil is just too thin, which is doubtful since factory oil in the RS4 sheared down to 9.4 100C cSt, and Redline runs a viscosity of 9.1. With your oil change interval, you can use pretty much any good oil, since the detergents are hardly depleted. 502.00 oils are overkill, with their high detergent load.

I may do it just for fun although I hate to run anything on the dyno that I wouldnt track or street the car with and i'm not sure about tracking on a 0w-20. Still would be cool to see if there is a difference for the heck of it one month. Thanks for the word on it. Redline has great numbers. I might prefer the Motul double ester that has zero shear in a 0w-20. You think that would be the same roughly?

larger but less.

as mentioned, may be much cheaper with (arguably) better looks from B6. I'm a B5 owner in search..the sega continues. I guess the RS4 will be more tunable or prove-so in the very near future.

I have no idea if it actually does change HP numbers, but when I think about the equations, I can understand how it changes acceleration, but not horsepower. The engine is putting out the same power regardless of the weight of the wheels/brakes.

perhaps less drivetrain loss since we are measuring at the wheels and the 22lbs loss in rotors and 35 in wheels is rotating mass? Maybe not much at all.

It's also ester-based, similar to Motul. Do it and run some before and after oil analysis. There are quite a few people that swear by Redline.

I'd like more info if you could point me in the right direction . . .

Dave

Reduced weight = reduce contact patch area with rollers = less rolling friction. Whether a few hundred pounds will make much difference, that's another matter.

Not a street oil . . .

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Dave

they're local, Benecia, about 50 miles up the road from me.

If you're just driving a car around as an average Joe, then no. It's too expensive. But if you're running at the track, or doing a lot of extreme driving, it's good **** Maynard, with a good ester chemistry. Quite a few racers swear by it.

My point with Mike is that since he's drag racing and trying to improve his performance, a lower weight oil is the next place to go for that extra 1-2%. There are some light oils that don't hold up well, but Redline has a pretty good track record, and with an HTHS of 3.3, it's quite close to the 502.00 limit of 3.5 ... and probably does quite a bit better than those 502 oils when they've sheared down, since HTHS is only measured on fresh oil.

Well, it's been around as long as I can remember...used to always see it in the non-chain auto parts stores going back to 70's...cycle shops thereafter.

I've just avoided the small indie oil brands in the past, but with what the major brands are now pulling with regard to synthetics, maybe time to rethink.

The 5w-20(the spread) goes a long way in helping against shear.

If you do some searches on BITOG, you'll find consistently that Redline oils seem to always stay within grade.

you "check engine" problems with the sensors?

that a 200cpsi cat will give you a CEL but that is only because their cat supplier is not making a quality product and they have to resort to making a 300 or 400cpsi cat (not surprisingly many folks report getting a CEL with even those cats from that manufacturer). MTM/HJS has even made a 100cpsi race cat for the Audi car that I have seen never throw a CEL in several years of use. Milltek is also good with HJS as a supplier and uses the 200cpsi cats however for some reason I have not made power with the Milltek HFC on my previous car so I decided not to go with them this time. Just wanted to try someting different.