View Full Version : So I forgot how hard Sports Photography is... Darn!


C5 Chas
02-05-2008, 02:48 PM
So I had a Taekwondo tournament this past weekend and thought it would be a good time to mess around with the camera as well. Unfortunatly I didn't have as much time to shot as I thought. But I did get a couple in the few minutes I had.
I post these mostly to get some advise from those who do this more often than I do.

I thought I had what I wanted, then this guy pops up...
<a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/ChasWG/?action=view&current=whitebeltform.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/ChasWG/whitebeltform.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

This kid was cute and he wasn't bad with the double bong mang ee
<a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/ChasWG/?action=view&current=Weaponsform.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/ChasWG/Weaponsform.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

And a little high kicker! I think I got that one, finally.
<a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/ChasWG/?action=view&current=Highkick.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/ChasWG/Highkick.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

So, what do I need to look out for or do next time?

NogaroHiro
02-05-2008, 03:16 PM
According to the exif, your setting was 70.0mmF3.5 and ISO 200 1/13sec.

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Set ISO 1000, and you can take it at 1/65sec without flash. This is free.

Buy EF85mmF1.8, and you can do it with 1/250s. This is not free, but you may be satisfied with the result, bokeh, for example.

Go with EF85mmF1.2L, and you can do it with 1/500s. This is expensive, but you must be satisfied with the photo with nice bokeh and sharpness.<ul><li><a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&amp;fcategoryid=152&amp;modeli d=12926">for the lens in Canon US</a></li></ul>

A6AvantErik: MCS
02-05-2008, 03:17 PM
the whole foot in next time =)
good job

C5 Chas
02-05-2008, 04:37 PM
but then again, it was a Ramada Inn banquet room. Notice the oh so wonderful carpet. I wanted to try a blurred motion photo. I noticed the smaller boy (white belt) getting help from a black belt with his form. The smaller boy was ahead of the black belt on that move. He froze waiting for the black belt to catch up.

Yeah, I saw that foot missing too, but those kids were moving pretty quick. I was at my widest with that lense (70-210 USM) and I had no where else to back up to.

Again, Darn!

C5 Chas
02-05-2008, 04:38 PM
How do you access the Exif info?

LaR H 88
02-05-2008, 05:00 PM
if it was me, I probably would have taken my 50 f/1.4 or 85 f/1.8 along with a flash or two (plus stands). the easiest thing to do would obviously be to shoot without a flash if i could get away with it, but if there isn't enough light to get a decent shot wide open and a higher iso, there's a couple options you have. with lower ceilings, bounce the light from the stand - this with fast glass could get you some decent fill with a little bit of directionality. if they're not too far from a wall, you can try bouncing the flash off the wall to diffuse the light a bit (but you need to worry about color). worst case, I would have probably used two flashes high on stands to crosslight the mat.

NogaroHiro
02-05-2008, 05:10 PM
open your page, click on the pic and move to my desktop, release it there, and the pic is downloaded in my mac. open it with GraphicConverter, and watch the file info. This is my way.

There are some freewares or sharewares both for mac or pc.

RKA
02-05-2008, 06:39 PM
Something like an 85 f1.8 won't break the bank, it'll help isolate all the background clutter, and you'll get better shutter speeds. Since you mentioned the 70 was a bit long, maybe a 50 f1.4 would be better suited to the task? If you can negotiate more working room, get a longer lens like a 135 f2.

You might find a little fill flash will help bring out detail in the shadows. If you need it, use it sparingly (ramp down the power or ride the fl exp comp to keep it in check), preferably with some sort of diffuser.

Finally, as NogaroHiro mentioned, ramp up the ISO. I'm not sure I'd go to 1000, depends on the camera. But most cameras are good to 640-800 these days. I'd start there and see if you need to push higher. Depends on what lens you're using.

C5 Chas
02-05-2008, 07:52 PM
Working in closer might have been a better option too with the limited room available. But I was in a bit of a rush. I had only a few minutes in between the Black belt meeting I had to attend and then getting ready for my own ring. I just grab my longer lense and didn't think about it too much. Maybe next tournament.
And I'll look into a fast 85mm.

beltsander TKO
02-06-2008, 06:35 AM
so i'm assuming if you use an 85mm 1.4 in those conditions, you'd have the lens wide open to have the fastest shutter speed...

but doing that would give you a pretty shallow dof. so, if a kid was doing a move, wouldn't you risk a higher probability that he/she will be out of focus?

then, to adjust, you'd have to set it to a higher f-stop?

RKA
02-06-2008, 09:37 AM
You can stop the lens down or adjust either of those paramaters to expand the DoF. It's all about having the flexibility to make the choice vs. not having the choice at all.

beltsander TKO
02-06-2008, 11:09 AM
however, i noticed that if the subject was moving, they'd be blurry... i'm guessing either i've moved, or they moved when i shot the picture.

RKA
02-06-2008, 01:40 PM
If it was the later, something should have been in focus. If it was subject movement, again, something should have been in focus. If it was you, yeah, everything would be a little hazy. Hard to say based on words.

NogaroHiro
02-06-2008, 04:19 PM
<center><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2380/1962154985_666f8297fe.jpg"></center><p>We can focus on our object and focus out other than our object. I believe this the point of fast lenses and photography. We can emphasize our object by focusing others off. We feel the object sharp, when others are obviously not sharp.

Fast lenses tolerate little error, and we need focus it precisely. Autofocus system helps us usually, but we must focus it manually sometimes.

We usually need manual focusing in the field of astrophotography, because existing autofocus system is not precise enough. Many fast lenses do not make sharp images at wide open, and we need stop down a little to take sharp images near the corners, though there are some exceptions including EF300mmF2.8L or others. But, if we watch the images near the corners of such lenses closely, we notice residual some imparfectness, though. Watch the left lower corner of the pic below taken with EF300mmF2.8 at F2.8 of the comet Holmes last November.<ul><li><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2380/1962154985_8781586123_o.jpg">link for 2MB version of the pic</a></li></ul>