I've heard here and on 80/90 forum before, people throwing some 200, 250, even 300hp figures out of NA 20V 7A engine.

What would it really take to accomplish such a task, work wise and a rough cost estimate - if possible at all. And please don't tell me just drop a turbo in there.

I've been trying to search in past few days but its hard with their intermittent problems.

250hp, parts like 200hp but more radical. better EFI system(034), very expensive head job, crazy cams and very bad idle, prolly not street legal, 8k redline, no power under 4k, possibly new pistons to bump compression to 12:1. I would guess $5000

300hp.... 14:1 compression, no idle under 2000, awful gas milage, very big lumpy cams, solid lifters, special machined head to fit big lumpy cams, 8-9k redline, not street legal.... also not very drivable unless racing, bottom end work, light rods, lightned/sliced/custom crank. price... yeah right, might as well buy a M3 for non turbo power.

mance spent $6000 on Ti rods for his 300hp 12v....

Dedicated race motors that run on 118 leaded with 13:1 CR and 8500 rpm redlines come close I'm sure, but I think alot of the hype out there are cars with 5 mods that are said to give 10% more power with each.

You stop stalking me in Denver wouldya? If you really want the black urq, you coulda just bought it.

Chance meeting of a couple qheads at *that* gas station on that day, just sounds too convenient.

:)

Scott Justusson

Somebody has a "works" rally NA 20V in a 90q that makes a whole pile of power.

Somewhere in the past there was a discussion on what exactly was done to that motor. Other than that example (where cost was probably not a problem), *I've* not heard of any high HP NA 20V motors.

Maybe someone else remembers who has the above car, or can find a link to the old thread?

Don't forget you were the one mysteriously hanging around my neighborhood! Probably trying to get your hands on a certain 90tq, but lucky for me it was still on jackstands. Don't worry, I'm ready for you next time, and this time I know I can out run you, unless it's icy;)

That was pretty wild, hopefully the trip back went OK.

Those were my thoughts too.

According to the 034 EFI guys, 200hp should be realatively easy (w/034 EFI and mild head work), 225hp with some serious cams and serious head work!
An "N.A." engine will only make more power by flowing more air, you can do this in 2 ways: make the engine bigger or spinning the engine faster in conjuction with lot's of head work! Doing both would be ideal!!

#1 the eurovan block creates really low compression witht he n/a 20v head, (hence why so many people run the 20vT head ont he block, just to be clear, turbocharged motor requires lower compression, the 20v n/a head and the 20vT head create the same amount of compression) So what I was planning on doing before I fell into forced induction was running a 2.5l crank fromt he eurovan block, and getting either custom pistons, or the pistons ground down to clear the valves. The crank should clear the 20v block but you might have to grind out a touch of clearance (if anything like 1mm, it snot a big deal). Above and beyond that your going to want to run some steap cams and do a little intake work to supply that stroker with what it needs. Now with the Eurovan block they are 81mm pistons (accross) and the 20v has 82.5mm pistons, so with the 2.5 crank and the larger pistons you will be a 2.5 liter stroker 20v (2553cc) 2.5-1/2 ;). Now lets be honest people, N/A builds ar ebecoming a thing of the past. Its alot of money, and alot of work, and really the gains arent what people are happy with. If you want to blurt out HP figures to impress your friends go with a turbo, youll end up saving SO MUCH money in the end, and overall will have more bragging rights. Now if you want to build it, to just build it, a 20v n/a stroker youll be around 230hp at the crank... if that. With some head work and some super cams and 034 yea you can push it maybe to the 260 mark... POSSIBLY to the 300 mark but with some really high octane fuel and 0 gas mileage. (That rally 20v N/A is 340hp but with 14:1 Compression) So overall... what are the figures?

Well, 20vT motor (like 2500 bucks with wiring) + chip (600 bucks) your at or around 280hp.

20v n/a motor, cams, crank, pistons, head work, 034, and the gas it takes to drive to the track? ... Im throwing out a figure of around 15 grand if you do most of the work yourself... possibly cheaper but not by much. Now me? Im still doing a 20v n/a motor build up in the garage because... well... I like to waste money hahaha... But for a daily driver with some oomph or best bang for your buck, 20vT/10vT is the way to go.

johnny

Some edits because I remembered stuff wrong and got corrected.

So I guess I'll add my figures since I'm working on the same thing...
~2500 - Ported/polished head, stainless valves and custom cams
~ 500 - Eurovan Short Block (it's supposed to be 100 but try to find it for that =)
~ 250 - Machine Block
~ 100 - Machine Flywheel (you'll have no better time to change then with the engine out, should probably do the clutch (325) and slave cylinder (220) while you're at it)
~ 750 - Wiseco Custom pistons
~ 250 - Balancing the new assembly (depends on how high you want to rev)
~ 100 - 12 valve 471A MAF and harness for conversion
~ 500 - for gaskets and to replace everything you ripped off to build this
--------
$4850

All this and you get maybe 210hp if you want nice torque (e.g. 220+) from 3.5-6.5 (that's a guess, I'll know more when the cams are designed on the computer)

Atleast you have rtealistic power outputs... most people expect to be pushing 300 something HP n/a and its just not fiesable for a daily driver in any way shape or form hahaha