88 90Q here with stock NG motor.

I don't like the amount of room and mess CIS takes up, not to mentino my car seems to idle at like 1100, always needs to be started twice before it dies, etc..

034 is obviously where people have lots of success but i cant justify dropping $1k on it.

Megasquirt, on the other hand, is potentially very cheap, and i definitely like the home-brew aspect of it.

The big thing that stinks is that most MS conversions on I5's are turbo cars, and they retain the stock ignition.

I'd like to get the audi ECU completely out of the car..and eliminate all that CIS goop.. even if it means going to a pure mechanical ignition until something better comes along.

Anyone have thoughts on this ?

It's capable of supporting well over 200hp.
Your problems sound like they are stemming from vacuum leaks and perhaps a temp. sender problem.

i just replaced the MFTS for other reasons (had cooling system apart anyway, temp gauge never really budged during normal operation)

what i really miss on the Audi is any sort of debugging capability. Going to a real EFI system with a PC interface gets me that. And i dont want to invest any time in this system as i figure there's an MC motor going into it eventually.

you could trouble shoot your vac leaks, or you can go thru the trouble of testing which one's you do and don't need for the MS mods. Going to MS will utilize a lot of what's in place if done properly, in which case you're still relying on the same components that are causing problems right now, potentially.

If it's not a turbo car, i'd probably not do MS. But if you're gonna do an MC engine, then maybe yeah you should do MS and use the NA as your learning curve. then blow it up as an excuse to do the MC swap!

Although, it should run just fine on the stock ignition box just doing ignition control. My 5k's been running like that for the better part of 40k miles and runs like a CHAMP!

There's always MegaSquirt 'n' Spark, which does Fuel and timing.

Although, IF the ECU doesn't do any spark timing, (as like the 4k) then you could keep spark as is..

Really, that only 'hard' part of converting to EFI is dealing with the fuel rail and injectors,and maybe throttle position sensor.

If not for settin up the fuel rail, I'd be EFI on my 4K long ago..

Good thing is, you can ditch loads of those annoying hoses that cause problems.

1) brake booster
2) vacuum booster (power locks, what else ?)

i guess some fuel pressure regulators and distributors take a vacuum line. Could either of those be better controlled electronically ?

honestly, my approach would be to remove everything from the car that i dont like or don't immediately see a need for, and add back fixed/replaced versions for functions that i DO need. Id rather not have a feature than have it work poorly.

88 90Q

it has its own pump.

As far as vacume controls for the distributor, where I live, with winter wet and salt vacum is more reliable than any electical device ever will be.

my 2 cents.

if you wanna go direct fire or whatever you call it, no it odesn't work.

this is where my experience wanes some because i haven't done it on an NA car. Where do you live?

Jeff

Some of the "034" guys were telling me you'll gain 10hp. by removing all the intake restrictions and switching to 034EFI!
Unfortunatley, it's not worth the cost unless you have already souped up your engine!!<ul><li><a href="http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1319">034 forum!</a></li></ul>

would do it if that's all you got.....

Besides, conservative estimates are ALWAYS best IMO.

I've been looking at AKTE (my bently machine is down) and i dont see any flywheel sensors or anything of the sort.. how is ignition timing done currently on the NG ?

the 7A has the normal motronic crank and reference sensors that im familiar with from my 88 BMW motronic 1.0 car.. but the KE-JETRONIC diagrams appear to have little to do with ignition.. is ignition on this car 100% mechanical ?

but if you went EFI and could dump proper amounts of fuel into this size engine at higher RPM, you should get much more than 10hp. When i lived in montana we could 10 to the ground on a motorcycle by adding a power commander and dynoing it. And that's dramatic considering the power to weight of a bike!

i know he can't just turn up the boost, but if other things are optimized too, he should be able to get a decent increase of power.

They are great for different things. I would never have CIS on the yellow car, obviosly way to high strung, in a good way:)

Now the red rocket 80q is keeping the CIS, because when I'm pissed off at the yellow car and need to use the red one, I know it will start instantly, every time, no mater what temperature it is, or how long it has sat in the garage. EFI takes a LOT of tuning to get it rock solid in all conditions. If you want any kind of factory drivability, you have to be ready to carry your laptop around when it's -10 outside, and have your wideband hooked up to tune it for that range. It can be done, and I'd recommend something with good idle valve control as well.

Yes the red car is slow as hell, and yes, I have the parts here to go EFI, cam'd, and flowed out, but that's not why I have this car.

Bottom line, it all depends on what your goals are with the car, and how willing you are to tackle projects. The CIS in the type 89's is really pretty simple, especially when you compare it to the turbo cars.

my car starts first try every time...without dying...maintain ur engine.

That is assuming you've already done cam/head work, exhaust work, and freed up the intake tract (which, the EFI would do a whole lot for by itself). I just don't want to say "by switching to EFI, you can make 50hp more than stock" when it'd take a good deal of work to make it do that, and most people wouldn't go that far on a NA engine because the power/dollar ratio isn't very good.

We had an '02 Gixxer 750 w/Power Commander sitting in the garage, so I know about how well it works on bikes ;-)