any info on this would be great, doing a 2.8 block with rs4 parts and lots of aftermarket goodies.

bad idea.

one major reason why NOT to use a 2.8 block, simply because the 2.8 block is a two bolt main, where as the 2.7 block is a much stronger four bolt main.

in my case, we started off with a 2.7 block and bored bottem end out to a 2.8.

what kind of tuning are you going to go with?
mod list?

know of.

Arrow - very well respected, very expensive. well built I-beam design. ~$400 per rod.

Pauter - very well respected, from what ive been able to gather a bit stronger than the Arrows, but a bit heavier as well. original rod design, similar to an I-beam. ~$1000 for a set of 6 rods.

Crower - widely used in the domestic market. very inexpensive. ~$150 per rod for steel, ~$450 per rod for titanium.

Eurospec sport - dont know much about these guys, most of their offerings are for the 1.8T. I've heard theyre actually Eagle rods. looks like a cheap, heavy H-beam rod to me.

the block to use the 4-bolt / 6-bolt / 6-bolt / 4-bolt 2.7 main bearing caps.

the 2.8 block already has the lateral main bearing bolts for the two central mains as well - no need to tap through the block there.

gear instead of one cam being chain driven off the other.

no idea what the mains look like, if theres a forged or cast crank, etc//

no prob. thanks for the info. I think I could use the 2.8 block and thread it for the 4 bolt mains but it is 2 much work. So I am going to bore out the 2.7 block instead.
mod list
2.7 block bored to 2.8
RS4 heads, ported and polished
RS4 cams
RS4 intake maniflod, port matched to heads
Fonelic spacers
RS4 fuel rail
770 cc injectors
RS4 throttle body
RS4 y pipe
Rs4 inlet tubing
K04/24 polished and coated turbos
Motec standalone
dual Walboro pumps
AWE tubular header
level 10 trans to 700hp
more..... but can't remeber

and one day someone will have the full 3.0 block specs. if's a 4 bolt main then it may be a viable option.. But then you have a turbo charged motor with high temps and even slight detonation may cause some issues with an aluminum block.

All pure speculation of course

Tory

The dual walboro pump seems to be a trick from the Supra camp.

bearing caps

replacement piece that allows 2 walbro pumps to be installed and fit in the stock fuel tank. Clean setup

Have multiple people already verified that our engines just explode at 700HP? Do you plan to rev this thing a significant amount above 7K? I'm all about being careful and erring to the side of caution when it comes to modding, but come on guys - we're not starting out with NA civic engines here. Tune it correctly and I almost guarantee you won't have any problems, even at 700HP (unless you plan to just track it every day of its life or something ... even then I'm not sure you'd see it fail anytime soon).

Our engines are forged and pretty damn beefy from the factory - the money you'd spend on this could be spent much better IMHO. Spending this kind of money is pretty expensive for being nothing more than piece of mind. Another thing to keep in mind is unless you pay out the a$$ and get very lucky, you'll be hard pressed to find an engine builder that puts things together as well as our engines were assembled from the factory.

I also own a supercharged Grand Prix GTP and I saw those boards go through the same thing until the mod companies and a few brave home-tuners proved that running 9 second and 10 second passes on the 100% STOCK bottom end didn't bother it at all. For those of you not familiar with these engines: crank is cast, rods are cast, pistons are hypereutectic - nowhere near the strength or durability that Audi has graced our engines with. Give ze Germans a little more credit - they know what they're doing. /end rant

i jumped on the build it bandwagon (kinda helped start/ move it along actually) and in retrospect we really dont know where we stand.