How much trouble is it to get the upper pan off? Mine is leaking like pig.

You'll need a really thin, long 10mm socket for the screws inside the flywheel housing and a flex-joint wrench for some harder to get to screws. Also, you'll need to drop the sway bar, undo the engine mounts and raise up the whole engine about 2-3" to clear the frame. Alternatively you'd have to remove the whole subframe, so I think the first method is easier.

I paid the dealer to do the vc gaskets and cam tensioner gaskets. Still leaked, took it back, they re-sealed a plug on the front of the motor that goes into the oil galley. Still leaks. I took a look and the sealant for the upper pan looks dry and cracked and quite a bit of oil is seaping out of there. The dealer said the cam seals and front seal were not leaking.

It's not the upper pan - it is the front crankshaft cover plate. It will come with a new seal. You have to pull the nose on the car and the lower oil pan and the pulley for the oil pump. Not a novice job