Hello I have a problem with my setup...

here is the setup:

GTRS
Unitronics
Greedspeed FMIC
neuspeed TIP
bosch Green Giant 440cc injectors.
VR6 MAF housing with stock MAF sensor
APR 2.5" exhaust
testpipe
ATP Manifold.
Evo MS DV
custom intake.

the problem:

1)I am pulling about 8 degree's of timing in the upper rpm range.
2)The turbo lags a lot (hit 20PSI by 4400 RPM's). 3)My MAF sensor only reads 200g/s when it should be around 300g/s (specified by unitronic)
4) my long term fuel trims are at Idle -4.5%, part load +17.5%.
5) the car does not start right away on cold starts it takes about 5-8 seconds of cranking over to start
some things you should know...
1)I have a Brand new MAF Sensor
2)I just changed the spark plugs
3)The A/F ratio is spot on... requested vs. actual are right on with each other.


Please Help me
thanks

No DTCs? Make sure the camshaft position sensor in OK, also confirm the crank speed sensor is OK. G28 and G40.
What does Unitronics have to say about the higher than usual timing pull of ~-8deg?
What is the boost pressure when the timing is -8 deg crank angle retarded for knock control?
You can use Lemmiwinks to retard the ignition timing a few degrees to lower the knock control timing retard values.
BTW, -12 degrees knock control ign retard, is the max, but -6 is usually considered to be the most that is comfortable to be needed routinely.

I have a 2001. I have no DTCs at all, the boost when it hits 8 degrees of timing pull is around 15PSI then it slowly raises to 9-11 depending on the cylinder. The thing is my timing ( degrees BTDC)is really low... around 0-3 degrees. If I lower the riming with lemmiwinks the timing will be even lower. I did check for boost leaks and found a small one but that did not change anything... I still get a lot of timing pull....
How do I check the camshaft position sensor and the crank speed sensor????

Any other Ideas on what it could be?

thank you

torqued knock sensors can result in false knock detection from noisy sensor signals.
The camshaft and crank shaft sensors, can be checked for device internal resistance values, or open circuits, the connecting wiring from the sensors to the ECU must also be tested for wiring faults, but it can be assumed that if there was sensor circuit faults, then there would be DTCs recording those faults if existing.
Re torque the knock sensors, with a proven accurate torque wrench,* then log the knock correction timing retard again. The coolant temp sensor may be involved, by mainly effects fuel ratio/lambda, and you stated the lambda looks good.

Focus on the knock sensor mounting torque, and verify the condition of the knock sensor wiring to the ECU.


The mounting surfaces for the knock sensors, and the sensor mounting bolts/nuts, must be absolutely clean before assembly and torquing to spec. Post back the results after confirming those items.

*The torque wrench used, must be accurate in the torque range required, and is usually only defined for torques equal to or greater than 25 percent of the full scale torque capability of the wrench. Therefore, don't use a torque wrench with a 120 ft*lbsf max rating, below ~40 ft*lbsf, or the actual applied torque will not be known for sure.
For torquing the knock sensors, use a calibrated torque wrench where the knock sensor torque is equal to or grater than 50 percent full scale of the wrench.

well I have fixed the starting issue. I was using a 3 Bar FPR, where I was suppose to be using a 4 Bar FPR. I fixed a small boost leak and a few vac leaks. The problems still exist.

one observation I have made is with the MAF plugged in and the fuel trims are pretty bad. the part load correction is +22.4% and idle correction is +2.3%

when I unplug the MAF and run it the fuel trims go down to +3.9% part load corrections and Idle corrections are -3%.

What would cause a new MAF sensor to throw off the readings so much?

With or without the MAF sensor plugged in I still get high timing corrections.

yeah I am using a VR6 MAF housing with the stock sensor. This is what Unitronics told me to use.

correct FPR? coolant temp sensor updated to the green top? 02 sensors fresh? MAF could be on the way out.

Or possible leak before the throttle body.

I checked leaks and fixed all. the FPR is 4 bar (that is what unitronics told me use) I havent updated the temp sensor, wouldnt a faulty one make me run rich any way? The MAF sensor is brand new. the o2 sensors are fine I think.

It's not unknown for a new sensor to be wacked.
And, since you are fairly sure that there are no boost leaks, the only other thing that would result in low MAF, is a bad turbo.
Have you logged IATs?

and the fuel ratio is correct, then the only thing that can cause the high knock correction values, is false knock detection, from some problem with the knock sensors or wiring.
The low boost can also be a knock control measure used by the ecu, when timing pull back does not adequately control the knock the ECU thinks is occurring.
Your lambda is not really OK, it's just that the ECU is able to compensate for the measurement errors, evidenced by the lambda corrections observed, either as MAF, or exhaust O2 measurement errors.
Low boost,(with the resulting low MAF,) High knock correction factors, timing pull back, low base ignition timing advance angle, AND fuel enrichment,(large +fuel lambda adaptation.) are inter-related symptoms, and are all knock control strategies the ECU will use to control run away detonation if the ECU thinks that is happening.

Just some things to consider, the symptoms you described can be related as explained above, and may be relevant for further diagnostic checks.