<ul><li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Velodyne-DLS-R-DLS-5000R-Subwoofer-Watt/dp/B0006G378U/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/104-5064729-8649518?ie=UTF8&amp;s=electronics&amp;qid=1191605278&amp;sr=8-1">hit or skip?</a></li></ul>

I go out of my way to find bass-heavy movies and DVDs to push my subs.

Velodyne are well respected in the industry, but gone are the days where all of their products are interesting.
The EQ is okay, but you'll want to fine-tune it by ear, after-all the mic doesn't know what your ear likes to hear.

It can play VERY loud, but if you don't EQ it and you have a small space, it'll be overwhelming...it *is* a 15" driver after all.

EQ will let you bring up the low-end couch-shaking stuff(20Hz-50Hz+, it doesn't really go much below 20Hz without major distortion) while keeping it from booming. The sub does come with 4 pre-sets (night, jazz, movies, stuff like that), but those are pretty limited.

You can do full LFE EQ a couple of ways...DIY with REW and a BFD, or Velodyne's outboard EQ which is an external version of the built-in EQ they ship in their expensive subs. However, the Velodyne EQ will be more than that open-box sub, lol.

Check out this <a href="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/subwoofer-equalization-calibration/">link</a> for DIY EQ and see for yourself if that's something you want to do.

L/R main speakers are and other factors, obviously, like room size/dimensions. My main speakers have, I think, exceptional bass response, but when I added subs there is a whole new dimension to the sound, both in HT and music, that really is breathtaking.

passively bi-amped......I know I know....horrible idea but they sound a little more clear to me. Temp fix until I get some monoblock amps (trying to get a set of Adcom GFA-555 or a pair Outlaw M220) so I can just use the Denon as the pre/pro. Obviously the denon has preouts.

Polk Csi5 Center
Polk Fxi5 surrounds

Currently a crappy Polk Audio 10 inch subwoofer...don't recall the model...but it sux

First off, I run with the Outlaw MBs myself. I have 3xM220s for the front stage. SB3 center and 2xST4 towers, all low-sensitivity (86dB) NHT speakers that need lots of W.

Needless to say, I highly recommend them. I did have to swap a couple B-stock ones I bought, but it was smooth and quick with a 5-year warranty on them. It will nicely extend the life of your Denon until you're ready for your next pre-pro (Mine will probably be a NAD T175).

Your RTi12s are monsters with huge range and decent sensitivity (90dB) so I think those MBs will make an immediate impact at a pretty decent price. I'm assuming you have these on 'Large' in your system...

As for the sub, a couple of questions:

1. Do you have placement restrictions? It may not be the most ideal to place it out front and might give you better results elsewhere in the room.

2. Any possibility of using 2?

3. How much amperage are you feeding the room? Especially if you add MBs into the mix, you're going to start drawing some serious Ws...

check what I did. I get a little OCD about this stuff.

Anyway to answer your question about the room it is actually the room is the living room which also extends into the dining room. Having said that the field I want to fill with sound is 11x30x30 but the room is open.

If you can recommend something a little better for the rti12s I am all ears. I just got sticker shock going to the next level looking at the Parasound Halo A 21.

Anyway anything in the middle range that you can recommend would be great.

The answers to your questions are below:

1. Do you have placement restrictions? It may not be the most ideal to place it out front and might give you better results elsewhere in the room.

No restrictions in placement outside of the couches....I was thinking at the end of the couches..

2. Any possibility of using 2?
A possibility.....maybe a pair of Velodyne DLS-4000s?

3. How much amperage are you feeding the room? Especially if you add MBs into the mix, you're going to start drawing some serious Ws...

The amperage is the standard amperage for a new house so that translated is I have no idea.

Right now I have all the stuff for the most part plugged into a Monster power strip.....one of the huge hideous things you find at BB.

I am going to upgrade that to a Pure A/V unit.

1. Get a couple of M2200 Outlaw MBs for those RTi 12s. Level set everything and see how you like it.
Move the existing sub near the couch but as far from the fronts as possible. If you can corner-load the sub that would be ideal. Even if the 10" stinks, it'll still move some air and you really need to balance the room some with the 6x7" drivers you have up front. Placing the 10" in the corner will help make it louder. Cost: $650

2. If you don't like the result with the sub, which wouldn't be a surprise given its size and likely poor resulting FR in your room, consider buying a Velodyne SMS-1 to EQ it. Although that might still not improve it enough, it'll still be something, you'll be able to use it with any other sub you buy down the road, and it can handle up to 3 subs concurrently. Cost: $500

3. Replace sub with one big (15"), or two medium (12" or even high qual. 10") subs. Multiple subs are more difficult to EQ, so if you're going to do that, definitely complete #2 first. Cost: $350-$1000+

If you don't like the M2200s and want even more W up front, you can always relocate them to your surrounds and/or use one for the center.

The electrical will be important. Chances are you've only got 1x15A circuit going to that room, which means you've got at most roughly 1000W total peak to play with, assuming above average power supply efficiency in your amplifiers (Denon+2xM2200s+powered sub). More likely, that number will be around 800-900W...if you've got a plasma, x360, ps3 in there too, that'll draw away from that number as well. You might consider running a dedicated circuit for the new Sub(s).

for $300

THD is high. 0.2% vs. 0.05% for the M2200 for example.

Warrany is 2 years vs. 5 years for Outlaw.

Bridged into mono, you'd get 300W per channel, but that doesn't mean as much as you might think...W are not a linear improvement, 200W is not twice as loud as 100W.

Most subs use cheap off-the-shelf Indonesian amplifiers and aren't driven very accurately. Lots of boom and single note effect. very few brands out there genuinely use decent amplifiers in their sub-woffer range. Those that do include: B&amp;W, Martin Logan, Velodyne PMC (they have Bryston amps!) and REL.

Tuning a sub by ear isn't easy but its the most effective way to do it. Digital set-up with a microphone is provided by some brands on certain models for those who aren't familiar with how to do this. It can get you about two thirds of the way there, but the chances of their mic being as accurate a receiver as your ear are very slim to zero.
Subs generally go lower than tower speakers, but if the sound they are pumping out is messy, it isn't anywhere as enjoyable to listen to as good floorstanders with good drivers and a quality amplifier on tow.

Most Pass Labs amps are 1% THD @ max watts, but are some of the most amazing amps ever made.

Good thing they aren't being demo'd in stores.

incidentally, those MB2200s are the exact same as NHT A1 amps.

what would you suggest he do at his price range?

and ghetto rigging it to passively bi-amp them does not do the speakers justice.

It's not like your speakers are that inefficient, 90dB/1w is pretty decent for the average speaker to be driven by a transistor amp.

Besides to make bi-amping worthwhile you need to use an external crossover.

Secondly buying a lower quality amp just to throw more watts at the speakers would be worse than a higher quality lower wattage amp if you're not clipping.

that I can run to the fronts. No interest in bi-amping. I am fine just running them bridged. I have been told I am committing heresy by running them off my A/V rec. even passively bi-amped.

Can't get the wifey to give the green light for a parasound Halo A21 or something along those lines.....she wants a bigger house first....