<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7620-1.jpg">

This has been a long-term project, I got a used manifold quite cheaply and it sat on the shelf for months until I got motivated to clean it up and get working. Initially I was very intimidated by it, enough that I ended up having a shop up in San Francisco gasket match the throttle body opening and the lower runners that mate to the heads. They did a nice job but I was on a tight budget so I ended up doing a lot more fine work and the entire upper manifold as well including additional gasket matching.
Mance's Manifold Workshop write-up was invaluable, his tools list was pretty on the money though I've got a few suggestions as well that worked for me I'll list in another post.

A few shots of the upper and lower manifold:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7622.jpg">

I cut off the "nub" that stuck down into the opening, now it's a smoother shape.
I polished the EGR passage thoroughly so I don't expect that to ever be a problem. Used Mance's suggestion of oak dowels with ScotchBrite pad, worked great and then polishing compound.


<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7625.jpg">

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7624-2.jpg">

I filled the deeper crevaces with steel putty and sanded them. I may still do some more sanding and shaping but at some point I just have to walk away from it, it's not perfect but a big improvement over the way it started!

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7630.jpg">

I made sure to soften all the sharp edges at the runner inlets with a flapper wheel and a cross buff so hopefully smoother airflow will result:
<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7631.jpg">

On the top half I chose not to take out the butterflies, I was torn but I had time constraints (I'm using my folks' garage at the cabin and have only a few days) so I decided to work around them. I used a flex extension with a flapper wheel to get deeper into the runners and though I'd have liked to gotten more detailed sanding I still think the airflow will be dramatically better, though never as good as Mance's unfortunately...

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7632.jpg">

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7637.jpg">

I smoothed the inlets to eliminate rough edges as Mance suggested:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7635.jpg">


I also sanded and polished the top runners so they'll look nice sticking out of the engine cover, it's nice to have a buffing wheel!:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7490.jpg">

All in all it's been a worthwhile project, I'd like to do more fine sanding on some of the runners, etc., but even as it is now it's dramatically better and I can't wait to gasket match the heads and go for a drive! Thanks again to Mance for the great write-up, I was a newb at this but I think I had a decent first-timer result. I'll do a write-up on what tools worked for me, etc., soon.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/intake18.jpg"></center><p>
can't walk away from this now! You're too damn close! Just invest 2-3 more hours in one specific location. It's the MOST important aspect of the entire IM workshop and the one that will wipe the floor with EVERYTHING you've done to-date power &amp; flow-wise. If you do NOTHING else, just finish it... you're too close to throw in the towel.

The area I'm referring to involves removing the butterfly plates and going after the high RPM runner inlets just below the b'fly plates. It's the single most-restrictive and turbulence creating impediment to high flow in the entire manifold! You've accomplished everything you can hope for at low RPM beautifully but absolutely NOTHING for post manifold/high RPM switch over! You must reconsider abandoning this at this point and do the "one" thing that the ENTIRE induction system you've purpose-built and implemented between your airbox inlet and IM runner inlets was designed to accomplish! We don't need or benefit from bored MAF's, throttle bodies, hi-flo airboxes and 3" induction systems for pre manifold switchover RPMs!

This one remaining spot can be expected to yield between 15 &amp; 20 CFM of free additional air... per RUNNER once cleaned up! You can't just quit now, walk away and leave the single-most dramatic improvement the IM Workshop offers lying untouched on the table!

Above is the "before" picture...

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/intake19.jpg"></center><p>

my 3/8" flame burr or use a Kay Roll? I assume the burr and is there any trick to pulling out the shafts? I know they have to be oriented a certain way upon reinstallation and perhaps that's my underlying fear, not getting it back together correctly?
I still need to source some 272, probably from Amazon but any advice you can give is welcome.
I wouldn't have gotten this far without ya!

just looks too good to pass up now i got the other intake parts taken care of .. hmmm

the stock screw slots. Anyone know what size fits the stock butterfly screw heads? I'm dead in the water until I can find the right size.

They should come out very easily once you've ground the backs down.

I bought mine from Eastwood...you want the brush-on type.

The back may not be ground down enough if you are stripping the screws...

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/81050/img_0018.jpg">