eldopa69
03-13-2008, 01:12 PM
<center><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/eldopa69/IMG_8079.jpg"></center><p>
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View Full Version : slightly eccentric eldopa69 03-13-2008, 01:12 PM <center><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/eldopa69/IMG_8079.jpg"></center><p> eldopa69 03-13-2008, 01:15 PM <center><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/eldopa69/IMG_8077.jpg"></center><p> eldopa69 03-13-2008, 01:16 PM <center><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/eldopa69/IMG_8071.jpg"></center><p> eldopa69 03-13-2008, 01:17 PM <center><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/eldopa69/IMG_8072.jpg"></center><p> 1995Qsport 03-13-2008, 01:20 PM Noice work, how long did that take you? how much epoxy did you apply to the outer wall of the t.b? eldopa69 03-13-2008, 01:27 PM after epoxy set, it took about two hours to grind, sand, buff. if you open the butterfly and look at the cylinder from the IM side you can see a line all the way around. i used this as a guide to get it as round as possible. i dont have a mill (well, i do but its a piece of doggy excretion, despite the fact that i dont have the plunge end-mill to do the job), so i couldnt mill it centered. the sanding drum works really well for a rough finish. the scotchbrite ball rocks once the aluminum gets warm from the friction. i installed about an hour ago and oh boy the 90 picks up. i have removed the sampling tube and screen, enlarged the intake on the filter box to 3.5"i.d. w/ velocity stack, installed 3" i.d. silicone hoses, installed real audi filter panel, and installed recovery sleeve (bought from "audihawk"), the stainless coupler (for straight hose to first elbow)was flared with a rosebud torch and the horn on the anvil. the epoxy was applied thick, thick, thick. i used blue tape to encase it and keep it from running until set.. d. Bmthorn 03-13-2008, 01:38 PM I can appreciate a good diy attempt! Adam_OO 03-13-2008, 02:47 PM 95ninety 03-13-2008, 02:52 PM Did you use an o-ring in the MAF? I have the sampling tube cut out in mine and use a 11mm od and 8mm id (7/16th x 5/16) and it worked well. eldopa69 03-13-2008, 03:12 PM yes, i used the 11mm od oring and no velocity stack. ive had the MAF installed for 3 weeks and no codes. the "check engine" light flashed on for about one second when it was idling after clearing the ecu, however, nothing since... if it makes any difference or not, i sandblasted the inside of the MAF housing with an 80 grit garnet media. i am really busy right now. i barely had time to do my TB. its my second. i just wouldnt feel comfortable doing someone elses, perhaps after more experience. the one pictured is my second attempt. its the TB i pulled off a '96' avant, thought id make all the mistakes on the original in my car. it was completed four days ago. i did notice a gain, but nothing compared to this one. i bored the avant TB all the way to the edge (perfect circle). it felt like i was operating on someones brain. i was so careful not to allow the die grinder to jump on me. they are notorious for doing this if you arent 105% careful. the butterfly screws were taken down flush with shaft, both sides. 95ninety 03-14-2008, 12:43 AM Hmm.. 80 grit seems pretty rough on the MAF.. Is it rougher than what it was stock? So all you used was a die grinder and afro sanders(what are those btw)? ... Nice, I may have to find another TB to do this to. Did you feel a power increase after the TB? eldopa69 03-14-2008, 07:48 AM yea, i thought so too. however, ive not had a code, so ill leave it. i dont want to jinx myself by even touching it the wrong way. the carbide burr was used to remove most of the material, then came the 120 grit flap-drum. after i brought the walls as perfect as possible with the post butterfly bore, i then switched back to a smaller diameter carbide burr. this was used to very carefully bring down any of the imperfections. once this was achieved, the drum came back into effect to clean up any rough surface. the scotchbrite ball (afro-sander, thats exactly what i thought when i bought them. hehehe), as mentioned before, rocks it once the aluminum warms up from friction. if you attempt this, be sure you can see very well, perhaps in the sunlight over a consistant surface. remember, dont let that die grinder jump on you. if it does in the wrong place at the wrong time, you might just be screwed.. i noticed a considerable gain after installing the TB. it picks up really well,low end. i havent taken it out on the big roads yet. from what my gut tells me, its going to be mostly an off the line and low end gain.. d. dragon-ryder 03-14-2008, 09:59 AM I've got a spare Blau sport bored and sleeved TB that I've gotta get around to grinding out smooth. Their fit and finish sucks but they do a nice job sleeving, plus getting it for free helps :o) Nice work eldopa69 03-14-2008, 10:24 AM yea, ive peeped the sleeved tb's and they just look like ****e. i cant believe what these companies are charging for a couple hours work. Mr Dobey 03-14-2008, 06:01 PM eldopa69 03-14-2008, 06:12 PM i couldnt flow test it. i am limited to my eyeballs and the feeling i get when driving the car after installing it. using a sleeve just seemed like a bad approach, so i opted for the epoxy. all of the edges that would cause turbulence were smoothed over. i bored the wall of the primary all the way out to match the butterfly bore. i wasnt tooled up to attempt a taper, so i thought id just allow the smooth contours of the TB entry to flow the wind the way it would and just see what happened. i was actually quite shocked at how much of a gain this procedure yielded.. Adam_OO 03-17-2008, 02:11 AM When did you apply the epoxy? before or after the grinding? --From a snowy Sweden-- eldopa69 03-17-2008, 07:16 AM die grinder to give the epoxy a surface to adhere to and to clean the aluminum to a bare finish. i allowed 24 hours for the epoxy to set. dave Adam_OO 03-17-2008, 07:30 AM Thx, must ask if you are Dave at Vasanmetaldesign? --From Sweden-- |