Courtesy of "The Critic," who doesn't know I'm posting "his" beautiful charts here:

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/56/124051456_e0d55c9ce0_d.jpg">
If the image won't load, click <a href="http://static.flickr.com/56/124051456_e0d55c9ce0_d.jpg">here</a>.

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/38/124051473_7a99193b9d_d.jpg">
Again, if the chart doesn't show up, click <a href="http://static.flickr.com/38/124051473_7a99193b9d_d.jpg">here</a>.

Quite frankly, I don't see any reason why G-05 wouldn't work in the Audi just the same as Death-Cool. Either way, you don't have to buy VW G-12 or G-12 Plus if you want to save some money.

I've been using Dex-cool for years without issue....Whats up?

GM had plenty problems with Dex-Cool, with thousands of gummed up cooling systems. Likely this was due to the design of the cooling system rather than the chemistry of Dex-Cool. Still, I like the nickname. I am not aware of any problems with the Dex-Cool in VW/Audi vehicles. BASF Glysantin 12 (G-12) is virtually identical with ZEREX Dex-Cool.

There are so many different coolants out there now, it can become difficult to figure out what coolant works in what car.

<a href="http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:invMN2pWUogJ:www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/CPM-52-DEXArticle-Excerpt.pdf+death-cool&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=firefox-a">Dex-Cool Problems</a>

that was designed to run in an un-pressureized system?

Their expansion tanks and their caps never really matched, thus the system really wasn't pressurized. I also had to dump some sealant pellets in the coolant to keep the headgaskets from leaking.

Evans?<ul><li><a href="http://www.evanscooling.com/main25.htm">http://www.evanscooling.com/main25.htm</a</li></ul>

Do you know anybody who's using this system?

By the way, I have a question for you. I got my latest used oil analysis back yesterday (I will post it here tomorrow), and while the result with M1 5W-40 is again great over 8 k miles, there is a clear indication that the valve stem guides are now wearing (Nickel is up). I know the stem seals have been worn for tens of thousands of miles and I wonder what I should do now.

If I keep going without fixing the issue, oil consumption will keep going up along with increasingly wearing valve guides, which may may fixing the issue more complicated and costly.

If I have the stem seals replaced now (at 146k miles), can I be reasonably sure that the guides will still be okay and that I need only new valve stem seals? I'm not sure I want to have to R&amp;R the heads.

I don't know if I have the nerves to R&amp;R the valves myself. My car is semi-garaged (carport under house, open on one side), and I don't know what the local shops charge for the job. I also would have to find a shop I trust.

Can you give me any advice?

At 140k myself, I'm sure the valve stem seals need to be replaced. I'd also like to retorque the head bolts at some point.

I'd probably attempt the valve seals myself since I've had the cams out a couple times. Still need to find the proper head bolt socket. Do you mind checking what size yours is do I can be sure not to get that one? Thanks

at 146K, you'd probably be better off pulling the heads, and have them sent our for a rebuild.

Or find a set of freshly rebuilt heads, and use your old heads for the core return.

Your guides shouldnt be worn exessively. The worn seals allow much more oil past, in effect reducing the guide wear. The guides can be measured to see if they are worn.

If your considering a DIY of the seals, some special tools are required.

Apart from fixing the reason for high oil comsumption, which is with high certainty those pesky valve stem seals, use this oil, which will resist blowby better than most: <b>Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-40 European Formula</b>, a Shell product. A guy whom I trust implicitly when it comes to oil, has told me this oil was absolutely amazing when they tested it. It is also a fairly low ash formula, which means the cats will keep meowing longer!

I'll check the socket and let you know the size. I'm sure it was a 12 mm.

I'd be in favor of replacing the heads, also because I'd like to put new head gaskets in. The problem is that I'm not sure who I can trust. when looking for rebuilt heads. Any idea what a reasonable price is? Thanks for your advice, Mike!

I may have to bother him in the near future.

I find rebuilt heads online for about $475 per head (-$200 core), but the quality of the work done is of course unknown.

It looks like Iffy Lube might carry it here in the Bay Area. Or so the Pennzoil site claims...