<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/arx1.jpg"></center><p>
this pic is inside valve cover "pre-treatment"

*note* I did "fish" that plug of carbon/sludge out of the crank journal oiling port with a Q-tip and needle-nose pliars after taking this pic. Didnt want to risk starving a bearing for oil and let the Auto-RX try to dissolve it. Good thing I did too as the next pic will show.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/arx2.jpg"></center><p>Hard as I tried I just couldn't duplicate the exact same lighting and setup as in the first pic. But I think you can tell that other than what I "swabbed" out with a Q-tip that nothing has improved or cleaned itself up after 1500 mile phase 1 treatment and 1221 of phase 1 rinse cycle.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/arx3.jpg"></center><p>at cleaning sludge and varnish. As you can see I pulled the dipstick out and laid it on 3 plies of paper towels to show how agressive this rinse cycle is at carrying on the cleaning cycle of the ARX product. Notice the dark black blotting action of the dipstick tip where the paper towels have soaked/blotted up all the additional varnish and sludge helping to carry it away from critical engine oil and into the oil filter wher it belongs?

Yeah, me too. This is isnt dirty at all!!! It's got 1,221 miles on it and it looks like I put it in this morning. The "oil blot" in the paper towel is hardly visible and I had to enhance the contrast just to get it to show up at all. This oil is NOT dirty!! Which means the rinse cycle is a waste of time as far as any additional varnish removal in the engine.

In 779 miles I will again change filters and oil and add another 14ozs of treatment per the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Following that I will do yet another filter/oil change as well as another 2k mile rinse cycle before completing the treatment.

Anyone else but me see where I'm destined to end up after following the prescribed regimen?

If the final rinse does all the cleaning, then you can send me a pound of that gunk for breakfast.

That's execeptionally clean oil!

my engine has always been this clean since I purchased the car. The Auto-RX has done nothing whatsoever towards cleaner internals as verified by the dark, creepy varnish-stained internals before/after pics. If the product was working as-promised my oil should be filthy, showing reduced varnish and a dipstick full of those stains being washed away and with some visible improvement on the second picture inside my valve cover. The product has done nothing to date other than increased my oil change intervals. I even started/idled the motor before shooting the last two pics so that if there were any heavier particles they would not have time to settle back into the oil pan and away from the dipstick. Thats also why the valve cover isides look "wetter" in the second pic.

or that they {ARX) is just full of CRAP
my oil isnt ever that clean even after that many miles on my car with out the ARX

with 202psi compression across the board and a Bentley recommendation of 157-203psi before tear-down.

And the car has always had Audi factory oil/air filters. No one can ever have oil that looks like this after 1200 miles with an oiled gauze filter like "you-know-who's" brand. Just cannot happen!

I think the biggest problem I personally have is with an engine with so much varnish as to look like mine in these pics and confusing that with "dirty." It may not be dirty... in fact it appears completely the opposite. But Mance can't like it looking this way tho I'm wholly ok with dipstick "blot" results. But I wont be even remotely satisfied until I get those valve covers off and have them looking identical to the top of my intake manifold. Funny thing is just a "swipe" of Acetone removes 100% of this varnish instantly without so much as a single back/forth rub. Just touch it and its gone!

You could use the bubbly scrubbing action of ARX on a toothbrush. :-P

the abs and it wont be a problem but i should still on getting it fixed..:)

Most of us would die to have as clean angine as yours. I mean c'mon there's no way in hell that there's any product that would be able to take a little carbon oxydation on metal without a good scrub. Don't worry, be happy .... :)

<ul><li><a href="http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_Drive_Clean_Oils.asp">http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_Drive_Clean_Oils.asp</a</li></ul>

Mixed fleet/diesel oils contain more detergents than oil for only gassers. Delvac 1 5W-40 or the OTC clone M1 5W-40 also contain a large amount of esters, which tend to clean an engine over time.

tho I need a 10W40 as I still have 3 winter Quattro events to get thru and I dont like competing with 5W oils.

and in my mothers 99 2.8qm the last 3 the 10w 40 but i have been thinking of changing to something else also been adding mmo to the oil the last couple changes and i have noticed some improvements. also poured some mmo in the oil 2 times and maybee that is where the improvements came from

thats not the problem. The problem is I bought a product that came highly touted/regarded as the premiere engine varnish remover available. I spent over $50 for this stuff and will have an additional 7,000 mile investment in accelerated oil and filter changes in it when the test is concluded. And it wont have even begun to do the very thing it says it will and that I bought it for. I did not buy it to get clean oil as that was a gift from the previous owner. The product has nothing to do with that.

My "only" complaint is the amount of time invested in this and it not coming close to delivering on its promise to clean the varnish off my subterranian surfaces. And if you think I have to "scrub" to accomplish that then perhaps you can explain why/how one light "swipe" with a Q-tip results in a sterling-like white aluminum finish? Notice I didnt say wipe back/forth several times or "scrub" with a Q-tip. I said one light swipe and it's clean instantaneously. Surely a product designed to remove years and years build-up of sluge and varnish should have zero problem coping with something so easily wiped off with acetone/Q-tip or even the lightest spray of aerosol brake cleaner. Either one removes it completely in the blink of an eye. The "before" pics at the site that sells this stuff makes my varnish issue look like a walk in the park. The "after" pics at that site make mine look like I'm spray painting mine with liquified Snickers bars.

How could anyone "not" be happy with my oil cleanliness? How could anyone be remotely happy with this products performance and total lack of responsibility for my oil looking like it does. I would rather have oil that looks like mud temporarily. At least I would know some varnish is being dissolved/removed from some place.

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
14.9

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
90.5

Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
174

CCS Viscosity @ -20°C, cP (ASTM D 2602)
4240

Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 97)
-48 (-54)

Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 92)
234 (453)

High Temperature/High Shear @ 150°C and 1.0 X 106 s-1, cP (ASTM D 4683), cP
4.3

Noack Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (DIN 51581)
6.9

Total Base Number
&gt;12.0

Recommended for (but does not officially meet):

* API SJ, SL, CF, CF-2, CH-4, CI-4
* ACEA A3, B3, E3, E5
* DAIMLER CHRYSLER 228.3, 229.1
* CUMMINS CES 20071, 20072, 20076, 20077
* MACK EO-M, EO-M+
* VOLVO VDS, VDS-2
* ALLISON C-3, C-4
* CATERPILLAR ECF-1, TO-2, TO-3
* MAN 271, 3275
* MTU Type 2
* DETROIT DIESEL Series 2000/4000 Category 2
* JASO MA (Motorcycle)