<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/tb6.jpg"></center><p>
not that there's any way to tell from this pic but this is the "hard-to-find" and rare throttle body. This shows an XTB finished with the best finish-hone for flow. The Rotofera makes all this hand-shaping and contouring a cake-walk but I also use the Foredom for about a third of this work and the new Lithium Ion cordless Dremel for getting into some of the tighter places.

In case some of you havent heard of the new cordless Dremel it's an incredibly good tool for sub-$70 at Lowes/Home Depot and comes with 65 or so accessories... well worth having around. Definately NOT for the IM Workshop but works for about everything else. Same torque and RPM's as the "plug-in" unit. All Dremel cordless units that preceed the LI are junk, totally worthless in comparison. This one is the REAL DEAL! 'Bout friggin time too.

Sean... this Bud's for you!

now let me find some coin today and get it off to you.

And then I have to figure out how to install it :)

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/tb7.jpg"></center><p>Both sides of the XTB get this treatment while the S1/S2 get a far smaller putty coverage area due to only lightly boring thru the outer walls. I've CNC'd a special hand mold-press for each side of the throttle body outside casting so it doesn't look like "clumps" of mud stuck on. That way I can spray the mold with release-agent, press epoxy on to its surface then press the mold to the throttle body and pull the mold off once the epoxy sets. Keeps everything sorta semi-pro looking even if never seen.

dislodge itself from the TB from engine vibrations and what not? Do you do anything to the mating surfaces to help it adhere?

Just kinda curious. Got that idea from the pottery stuff I used to dabble with in my more artistic days =P One would score the surfaces that mate to give them more to grab on to... which would prevent them from separating down the road when put in the kilm, oven, dishwasher, etc etc.

where the epoxy is affixed. And admittedly the possibility does cause me some concern. But I have tried everything I know to make it fail here including baking it at 3x it's heat rating for 72 hours, leaving it submerged on smooth, unprepped pieces of aluminum in Bulldozer, acetone, laquer thinner, Xylol and Tolulene and still can't pry it off of a test TB or the aluminum swatches with a screwdriver. And the ultrasonic cleaner can'tvibrate it loose and there's few things mechanical that can compete with those Hz vibrations.

Truth is I want it to fail in the worst way. If I can get it to fail I can find a work-around for it. And if it's going to fail I want it to fail here as if it fails on someone's car it's instant no-go for the car.

But this isn't hardware store variety epoxy. It's industrial use DevCon Titanium. But I'm always on the look-out for better, stronger, more tenacious grip epoxy. If/when I can find something better thats what will be used from that point on. I don't "think" this will fail. If it does I'll be in the same boat as everyone else as mine just got installed 10 minutes ago. But between you, me and the lamp post I will have a spare TB, TB swapping tools and high-heat mechanics gloves in my car for the next few weeks.

It's the one thing that for now remains un-tested, un-confirmed and definately possible tho unlikely/improbable.

I may check out the LI one before long (too busy now).

but damn man =P

Again, just curious. Sounds like you're pretty confident in it though, which is a real good thing.

or there isn't specific one?
thanks