ha,
I've been working on a intake system for my 100Q using some of Urs4's ideas mixed with my own. I'm going to use 3in silicone and a 2.75 reducer to attach to the stock plenum. I will be removing my airbox because the angle between the MAF and the plenum does not allow a straight intake pipe. I will be using a cone filter with integral VS. At first I was planing to build a wall to separate the heat from the cone...But now i'm thinking of building a new box that will shield both the cone and the MAF from heat. The new box will be fed cold air through a 4" pvc that is routed to where the fog light used to be.
let me know what you think

the MAF is made to disipate the heat from it's sensor element thru it's metal contact backing plate that mates against the MAF housing which causes the MAF to act as a giant heat sink. If you seal it in with the cone filter you've now effectively made a 118*F airbox heater with no place to shed it's heat other than the incoming air.

Ever wonder why ALL the backing plates on the sensor modules for the Hitachi aluminum housing MAFs are metal instead of plastic like the sides, top & front? Especially when plastic is SOOOO much cheaper than metal?

If ya really wanna do something for the MAF design a little "cool suit" wrap for it with circulating water and a cooling unit. But don't put it in a sealed container with intake air unless you relish the thought of replacing it due to burnout every month or two and having your car running on oven-vent temps.

Other than that you're good to go.

I like UrS4's ideas, and I myself have had the lingering thought of getting cold air from that lower-passenger side grille.

Keep us posted.

heat absorbed and how much was caused by that little wire. Thanks for letting me know. What is the best(keeping cost in mind) tool for measuring intake temps?
thanks

With silicone hose I can puncture the tube with a sharp pick and push the sensor probe down into the tract which allows me to get intake temps during driving. When done I place a small dab of black silicone adhesive over the almost microscopic puncture in the black silicone hose and it becomes invisible. I also have a Davtron Avionics gauge which is primarily used for pressure differentials in a turbo car like before/after intercooler readings to check IC efficiency but the Fluke is much easier, more convenient on a NA car since everything "pre-airbox" is ambient and temps nearer the throttle body are the ones you want to know. Simply take a reading near the TB, subtract ambient and the sum is your answer.

With stock airbox, bored MAF and silicone hose I'm able to hold temps in the intake tract to +4F over ambient when car is traveling forward. +12F when sitting at a light or idling. When I tried this with a cone the best I could do was +58 over ambient with a makeshift heatshield while moving and almost +100F while sitting/idling. But this makes a far greater value-statement about my kindergarten heatshield than it ever could about what "can" be made for shielding.

An interesting aside to blue/black silicone hose is while the blue silicone hose I originally ran until my custom black hoses were made showed similar/identical results at internal temp lowering the black hose recovers to a lower temp over 400% faster than the blue hose did once the car starts rolling. The flip side is the black silicone gets up to it's operating temp an identical 400% faster than the blue silicone hose. Which in theory means while black is the worst color for staving off or deflecting radiant heat, it is also the best color at shedding or dissipating it's heat.