<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22378/dscn0902.jpg"></center><p>Putting it in ... NOW!

Mike

electrical tape around it so it fits the airbox outlet more snugly. The A4 2.8 air box outlet is a little smaller than the 90. 3.02" vs 3.12"

So if it's too loose to stay in place just wrap the electrical tape 5-7 times around the O.D. and squarely on top of itself starting aout 1/2" above it's outlet end.

Thats the same thing I do here. Sorry I didn't catch that it was for a 90. Let me (us) know your impressions after driving awhile.

Thanks

I placed pieces of double sided tape (leaving the exposed side covered with pastic) in 5 spots around the base. It fits very snuggly.

I went out and drove for a little bit. It did made some sort of difference ... here's my reasoning: Last weekend I was bored so I took the headlight and turn signal off to get more airflow to the airbox. When I drove the car around, for the 1st 10 miles, my car was sputtering, and acting kind of weird. I think this was because the computer was adapting to the new amount of air being pushed into the box. After the computer adjusted, the car really took off. There was a noticeable difference.

Today, after putting your piece in, my car had the same kind of reaction. During the 1st 10 miles, the car was sputtering a little bit, throttle response was a little hesitant. Then it seemed like something kicked in. The car began to run more smoothly, throttle response was great. I hope to see more improvements from driving more.

So because of the sputtering, and bad throttle response in the 1st 10 miles of driving, ... and then the car running smoothly once again with better throttle response...I conclude that more air is being flowed (just like when I took the headlight off).

I'm thinking about getting a K&amp;N panel filter. I had a cone for about a year, but due to a ton of problems I was having at the time, I decided to take that out and put the stock airbox back in. The dealer had told me the cone was "over oiled" ...causing my MAF to go bad, then causing a chain reaction of a bunch of other stuff going wrong. I'm not sure i believe this story anymore though. A month ago, I found a cracked vlave cover tube that leads to the TB. Oil was leaking out, and air was getting in. I believe that this was causing my car to run rich, which then caused both my cats to fail 10K miles ago. I had been getting the "fart smell" for quite some time before this as well. After replacing the valve cover -&gt; TB tube, I have not lost any oil, and I have not smelled the "fart smell" in a while. So...in the interest of flowing more air, I think I'll give the K&amp;N panel filter a whirl.

Mike

The primary reason being if the tape is in 5 pieces placed around the outside diameter there's also 5 gaps between those pieces of tape that air will find a way around the velocity stack, into the MAF and past the sensor wires. Far better 100% of the air goes thru the velocity stack than "most" of the air.

While the velocity stack does allow more air in it's likely not as great as you might think. Somewhere on the order of 8-10%. Where it really shines is straightening and smoothing the existing air past the sensor wires so the MAF gets a good, clean and smooth sampling of air rather than the turbulent air created by the straight-edged hole in the airbox lid. Once you open the MAF up by boring and/or go to larger induction hose the potential for increase thru the velocity stack is substantial... on the order of 200%. To the point where the car throws a CEL almost immediately without the velocity stack mounted in the stock airbox... further demonstrating it's ability to smooth out turbulence.

But I've never seen such a persnickety MAF sensor as yours seems to be from your description. You might want to pull back the rubber boot on your MAF plug and while running hook a voltemeter up to it. Take some readings at idle, mid-range and some high-RPM throttle blips. See if you're in the 1.65-4.65 volt-range from idle to WOT blips. Most cars adapt to the velocity stack smoothly, seamlessly and almost imperceptibly. With no apparent bucking, surging or stumbling. Then at about 50 miles people sorta start thinking "wow... this thing DOES make a difference."

mind letting me know how much it set you back? seems like the 12v engine is finally getting some mods!

MAF horn:
Location: in air box before MAF
Replaces: restrictive MAF screen
Purpose: Smooth &amp; increase air flow into MAF and beyond
Result: more power!!!

Where did you get that stack?