I tried the UrS4 way of letting out the clutch and then punching it. This way I got to 60 in about 8 - 8.5 seconds with hard 1-2 shifts. G-tech shows 0-60 in around 7 seconds with hard launches. Keep in mind that my clutch is in need of replacing so some very minimal slippage may occur. I have a cone kit from TAP, no MAF screen and no resonator.

launching and shifting at.

From a dead stop, let the clutch out slowly, but not so slowly as to stall the car or start lurching/bucking. As soon as the clutch is fully released I punch it. Rpm's are usually right at the normal idle mark, 800-900 when I hit the gas. If I feather foot it to keep it from stalling/bucking I'll still make the run, long as the RPM's stay sub 1k. If I even THINK the needle touched 1k I abort the run. I figure any launch-n-go at 1k or above is a red-light launch. It's a little tricky to master precisely early on as it's not something you've likely done before. However after a dozen or so attempts it becomes very very easy once you learn your car's transition threshhold from releasing the clutch at idle. Now that I've done it literally over a hundred times it's second-nature and quite controllable... don't even have to think about it. And remember, this is not to measure the fastest 0-60 times. This is to compare modifications in a before/after situation. When done properly the results are gape-jawed consistent. And after you've done this for awhile you develop an instinct for it. Like a ball playr saying "I knew I shouldn't have swung at that one" or when you play pool and say "I knew I missed that shot before my stick touched the cue ball. Happens to me alla time right from get-go so I red-light the run and start over. I'm fequently able to do 6-8 run sequences that are within .04 seconds from fastest to slowest.

My best time to date is 9.08 seconds. But bear in mind I'm at 6,000 ft elevation. The rule of thumb posted by the NHRA for normally aspirated engines is 3% HP loss per 1k ft elevation. So a stock 2.8 12V at my elevation has 141 crank HP vs 172 at sea level.

My shift point is 6200 RPM's as that puts me squarely at the start ramp of the torque curve (3800 rpm's) for the 2.8 12V with stock cams. If I shift any faster or "power-shift" it's abusive and all I gain is maybe 200 rpms and the tach lands at 4K in 2nd gear. Audi synchros don't like that action. Sure they'll do it but remember you're looking for "net improvement" for a modification you've just done, NOT fastest 0-60!! And consistency is the name of this game. Do everything the same way every time and ignore you're numbers as anything other than to test some new modification you've made to the car.

I start the chrono soon as I step on it and end it when the speedo hits indicated 60mph.

Hope this helps. If not, ask.

every time. I stop the timer just when I want to change into third wich usualy happens right near 60mph. My guages are in KMs so its hard to pinpoint exactly when it hits 60. The runs where consistant hitting right near 8 seconds on each run which sounds close to what I expected since I run very low sevens with a moderate clutch slip runs. I figure a second on top of that for easy launches is just about right. The difference between your and mine runs is most likey the elevation as you mentioned. I live in Toronto which I think is pretty close to sea level (not sure though) so that would explain the lower time.
I honestly think that it should be even lower then that. My K&N is realy dirty and my clutch could grab better so may be a few tenth could be shaved off on that. I really want to take the car to the track and see what it does in 1/4 then I'll know for sure. I'll be happy with anything in low 15s.

If you put that in perspective you're turning in a 0-60 time from a slow, no-burn launch at idle RPM thats 1/10th second slower than Audi's pro driver doing published 0-60 times with whatever options available to them. I think doing this method of runs should net between 1.2-1.7 second slower times than a serious 0-60 test attempt. If thats even close it would put you in the mid 6's for a serious 0-60 run. Just under the 180 TT's 0-60 times.

Maybe someone who likes serious 0-60 times or has done them in the past and logged or kept them in memory can try this method and we can get a good idea of what the time differences between the two 0-60 methods are.

I actually drove 180TT and it felt slower then my car so I can relate to that comparo.

assumed redline(which is not the fastest)and it tutns out not to be the case.

basically a ~5mph to 50mph time. And most cars should be able to creep at 2nd gear - done this many times to trouble shoot customers cars for whatever reason

Two ways to obtain is using VAG (speed vs time) plot or just a stopwatch start/stop as it is punched and the speed is reached.

felt slower than my 12V at freeway speeds. From a stop, the turbo kick though some lag made it feel faster but in reality, it wasn't

Not on purpose mind you.

might as well make it 5-60 tho as 5600 rpms on a stock-cam'd 2.8 12v is peak torque and I'd rather go a little past that point than shut the car down short of it. And a longer span between stop/go should provide more consistent results.

But then I don't expect the performance to be optimum for N/A as there is an exhaust turbine blocking the flow

It could be a good baseline for different 12V mods specially with your stuff going around, but you gotta drive down here at sea level :)

with Mr MD's dyno, and if he participates, we may be able to estimate everyone's dyno torque to some degree :)

My first gear is noisy. :-P

Speaking of which, looking for an out of work IT guy? ;)

Re:looking for an out of work IT guy? ;)
Of course if you can catch fish,push a broom,take sh!t from customers,and work for almost nothing.

=p

It'll be worth it just for the Just Dave Cone intake. =)