RobK has the turbo going for him... but who else has done alot of modifications to their 12V?

Mike

Plus I can put a few cases of water bottles in the trunk to take the lead from your once-dominant schweinboot.

Full cabin. That was about 2 years ago when my ERAM's were still in place. Without them, 7.5 average. So a modest ~10 hp increase

The broken turbo setup on the dyno yielded about 150 at the wheel, so there is hope in getting this thing close to 190 at the wheel ;P

It had the same effect as running a freer flowing head and intake. It's also why I can easily pull on chipped 30V with exhaust on the race tracks. My best duel was with an E30 M3 on the front straights of Sear's Point Raceway - right in front of the Audi corral since we were dueling for a while.

I know that most people make fun of those things for being snake-oil, but I've seen your previous posts about them and have considered giving them a shot.

Do you still have the write-up and pictures somewhere?

Thanks,
Scott

After a few soldering, desoldering jobs, I damaged one of the brush housings for one motor. Actually, I took them out because when I got into AutoX, I couldn't run with them. So I took them out for the season, put them back in from race track days, took them out again, etc. One of them is still good.

They were only a temporaty quick solution to get forced induction. I was going to go with turbos regardless. The A4 is just too tight to do anything quick. My other cars only require about 2 weekends straight of fabrication to bolt up turbos. The A4 is my baby though, much more fun to drive, even though our 225TT has an attitude problem when she likes to go fast (she's a bitch on the freeway at times hehe).

I have done a write up before - maybe in '99 or '00. But I don't know where that post is now. The picture is still in my picture poster though ...

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/9/aboyeram.jpg">

Sorry for it's poor quality as it was a non photoshop cut and paste from 35 mm pictures scanned :P I do have larger scanned images at home

Time to do some measurements and some scrounging on Ebay!

In their wiring diagram, E-ram shows an accelerator pedal switch. Is that part of their kit that mounts below the accelerator pedal, or is that a splice into existing wiring.

If it is the latter, I wasn't aware that there was anything electric about the accelerator pedal that could be tapped into to see when it was depressed.<ul><li><a href="http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/eramdiagram.htm?AOLHelp=979008765.802.301.1&amp;Server Name=www.electricsupercharger.com">http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/eramdiagram.ht

but what I did was make two switches - one is like a door bell bush button switch I got from radio shack which I mounted on the throttle body that gets hit at WOT by the plastic black accelerator cable holder (I don't know what to call it). The other switch I made was a lever switch actuated by a vacuum valve - from carburators - so that I tap it into the secondary runner vacuum control valve at the back of the manifold. The secondary runners open at 4000 rpm regardless of vehicle load. So my ERAMs came on only at WOT, 4000 rpm. Reason is, if you allow the ERAM to come it at WOT from a lower RPM - let's say you stomp it from a traffic light - it can cause the car to be too lean and stumble. At 4000 rpm, you feel the kick!. I also just left my secondary intake runners on all the time.

I can post pics tonight of my two switches.

I think the website mentioned upto 1 psi. I doon't think the blade design can sustain 1 psi. I used 2 ERAMs because I figured I can have two blades trying to hold whatever pressure.

1 psi is about 6.8% hp increase - on small to medium size engines. 5% increase sounds more like it. That's about 0.7 psi boost.

4000 RPM switch. Made of a lever switch mounted on a vacuum valve. I don't have part numbers. I just picked them up at an auto store. There are vacuum switches available though. They are usually found on some Japanese cars. I can look one up for you if you really need it.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/4k_switch_1.jpg">

switch on - vacuum activated
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/4k_switch_2.jpg">

tap from solenoid controlling secondary runner valve
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/4k_switch_3.jpg">

here's a push button switch mounted on some fabricated bracket. Goes on at WOT to control relays
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/WOT_switch.jpg">

Lastly, this is similar to what URS4 jus posted. The white filling is an 18 gauge wire. The whole gasket is doused in Silicone. Leak proof :)
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/TB_seal_seal.jpg">

Eugene is the "madd scientist" ;)

Very smart guy.