I don't know wether someone has already commented on this in the archives, but I want to know if it is highly advisable to use a good synthetic oil in a chipped 1.8T...<p>Any and all comments are appreciated!<p>Thx in advance,<p>ELH

I switched to Mobil 1 15w-50 at my first oil change and will never go back to conventional oil. Here are some reasons why:<p>- the engine cranks much easier on cold mornings (so oil is flowing to the turbo better and sooner)<p>- the engine runs quieter and smoother (it also cut down on the valve clatter when the engine is cold, so oil is getting to the top end better and sooner)<p>- fully synthetic oil withstands high temperatures better without coking, something that is important to me owning a turbo and living in Texas<p>- I have not really seen an increase in milage, but a friend switched to Mobil 1 in his EB Expedition and claims he is getting an extra .5 MPG via his trip computer (not much, but that is a large/heavy vehicle and it is above and beyond why I am using it).<br>

Over half of the respondents are using some form of synthetic oil!

Definately recommended - Mobil1. I have used Mobil 1 on my 1986 GTI which now has 203,000<br>miles on it - and the engine still looks new in the valve train. I will be using mobil 1 on my A4 after the break in period. There has got to be a reason that ALL Porsches are sold with Mobil 1<br>direct from the factory.

Ya definitely go with a good synthetic. Also, a $100 turbo timer is advisable since your working the turbo harder.

While I don't live by it, Consumer Reports 7/96 issue compared standard and synthetics in a fleet of New York cabs, and basically found no perceptable differences as long as it was API Certified. <p>Ok, an Audi A4 1.8T, or 2.8 is not a GM V6.<p>They do mention that "the're [the synthetics] worth considering for extreme driving conditions-high ambient temperatures and high engine loads or very cold temperatures."<p>I've always used Valvoline in my cars, the last 2 Audi's, my recently prematurely squished '93 90 2.8qm had 61K with no issues, and my '84 4000qm that was running fine when I traded it with 147K on it.<p>My dad's '91 20 valve 200tqm 100+K, '90 20 valve 90m 120K, and step brother's '89 5000tqm 150K all use whatever API is on sale, all with no engine or turbo issues.<p>IMHO, if I was going to pay $3+ a quart, why not go all the way with something like Red Line?<p>Just my $.02

I Also read most of the stuff on the Mobil 1 page, and the article on Sean's page. None of these include conclusive scientific studies, and data to back it up!<p>Show me the data!!!

Why not do your own study (as others here have done) and try it for yourself and see? Mobil 1 can be purchased for around $2.50 a quart at Walmart, so it won't cost that much just to try it (and if you then extend your drain interval it will pretty much be a wash).<p>If you try it and you don't notice your engine cranking easier on near freezing mornings, or your engine oil temperature running cooler on hot summer days, or that your engine runs smoother and quieter and revs more freely, or that you get a little better gas milage, or that you get a little more HP, or that your oil stays cleaner and does not thin out after several thousand miles, or that you do notice some of these things but you do not deem them worth the extra cost, then you won't need any more proof that synthetic oil is not for you.