04-21-2006, 11:16 AM
This would be my first serious attempt at detailing. I've search the archives for around 4 hours and I might be more confused than before. The following is a list of items that I think i need to get to do this right (in order or the application process too). It might also be important to note that I've had the car for 3 years and wax it about twice/year.
1)Shampoo - Four Star Ultimate Auto Wash Shampoo
2)Clay Bar - Clay Magic claybar kit
3)Cleanser - P21S Paintwork Cleanser
4)PC and Pad Bundle (Porter Cable 7336SP) from detailers paradise
4)Polish - Menzerna Final Polish II
5)Wax - One Grand Blitz Carnuba Wax
Along with interior, wheel, and vinyl this purchase is around $300 so I want to confirm before I buy.
04-21-2006, 12:09 PM
P21S GEPC = S100 GEPC
It's the same thing, and the S100 costs less. (Can be bought at a Harley Davidson shop...it's use for motorcycles) (it won't be a lot less, but it may save you a few bucks)
Also, when you apply the P21S, make sure you apply it AFTER the Menzerna FPII, but BEFORE the Blitz wax
04-21-2006, 01:46 PM
the p21s actually stays on the car (with oils and stuff) which help FILL IN the swirl marks. The P21s is more of a cosmetic filler (which will get removed over time) while the final polish 2 actually removes some clear coat to remove swirls/scratches
04-21-2006, 02:00 PM
get some Menzerna Intensive Polish as well or other comparable polish with slightly more agressiveness than FP II.
IMHO it's better to get rid of swirls than cover it with fillers.
04-21-2006, 02:14 PM
better to start with something not too aggressive
04-21-2006, 04:16 PM
do more harm than good over time. He tends to talk out of his ass sometimes though. Is there any truth to it?
04-21-2006, 05:05 PM
work up in aggressiveness ONLY IF NEEDED.
As common sense will tell you, you can't put paint back once you've taken it off so start mild and check your results.
Not knowing the condition of your paint and knowing that a bottle of Menzerna Intensive Polish is only going to run you $16 I merely suggested it so as to not have you waste time trying to push FP II beyond it's capabilities should more agressiveness be required for your car.
FP II certainly can handle micromarring and some light swirls but if you've got anything that needs more you may find yourself working on each panel much longer than you would with something stronger.
As far as the "over time" thing, generally speaking yes if you continually polish with agressive polishes you're going to do damage. HOWEVER, the key to eliminating this risk is to not only follow the rule of thumb of starting mild but also to reduce the need to polish to begin with.
Swirls and micromarring on your finish are produced by the processes that you use to clean the car. Scratching can occur either due to the products you use like towels and mits or the way you wash it (search for talk of multiple bucket techniques using wash mits). Fix that and add a good sealant and the frequency of polishing goes down dramatically.
Bottom line; if you've got a car that hasn't been heavily polished before and you need to tackle swirls then chances are you won't be in trouble going from mild to more agressive once and then fixing your care/maintenance process to minimize swirls from that point on.
Owners of black cars can testify to this for sure . .
04-22-2006, 02:26 PM
I won't say Blitz is as durable as a synthetic, but it's certainly more durable than you're suggesting. Like, at least twice as durable.
04-22-2006, 08:34 PM
But the synthetic will dissipate more slowly over time.