<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/23288/my_coupe.jpg"></center><p>Well my recent perchase of a 1991 20vT for $700 (blown tranny), has sparked my interest to get as much power as possible out of the car and to make it look good with all the goodies.
How much money could i get for my restored "83 TQC. it's got 130K on it. All the mods are listed. Plus 4 point harnesses. What could i expect to get for it?
Thanks guys.<ul><li><a href="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/23288/200tq_rear.jpg">http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/23288/200tq_rear.jpg</a</li></ul>

but the coupe doesnt make a good daily driver. It's damn fast and fun and it would be silly fast with a 20vT. I'm getting sick of driving the stationwagon around too. Thats gonna be the first to go.

The 1991 200 Automatics had much less power than the 5speeds, it may not even have been a 20v. I may be wrong here, but am pretty sure the 1991 200 with auomatic was around 160hp, while the 5speed with the 20v had 217hp.

the kid didnt know what he had. The car was given to him by his dad. Hahahahahah

I drive a 4000 every day, and it's not THAT much different.

I try and drive the coupe as much as possible. I love it, going for a blast down the back roads in south county Maryland is wonderful. But I could never bring it to Boston and have to park it on the street with tons of college kids trying to parallel park around it. I have taken it there before but i kept it at a friends house in N.H. The drive up there was fun, everytime i had to stop and pay a toll it was like going to the drag strip....

Check out the newest edition of Eropean Car. It has an article on just this sort of thing. Putting a 20vT into an ur-quattro is a nightmare. The flooring has to be modified to fit the twin exhaust and cats. Unless you have deep pockets, lots of time, and a big torch, I would avoid the conversion.

There's been a euro 20V version up till'91. I didn't think there was any panel beating required for the 3B engine.

You CAN install a 3B with no "panel beating". The real 20Vt (RR code) urq DOES have a modified left side floor for the additional cat. You do not, however, need to do this. In fact, if you go to a complete 3" mandrel bent turbo back exhaust with, you will have better performance than the factory dual cat system, even with a cat.

As for the conversion being a nightmare, it can be depending upon your skill, fabricating ability and/or ability to get Euro parts. I am doing my conversion with all correct factory parts, and it ends up being very straightforward, but rather costly. As I started with an '82 ur q, I had more things to change than someone with a later car would need to, but it ends up being the same. I'll post pictures of work in progress if anyone is interested. The shell is now back from paint with a fresh coat of 0A9 Pearl White paint, and the reassembly of the shell has begun. This is the fun part.

The toughest parts of doing the swap are the electical system integration, hydraulic system mods, exhaust, and plumbing. The easy part is that the engine physically "bolts" right in. Outside of the engine, figure on ~$2k+ (minimun, no "while I'm there" parts like the clutch, motor mounts, etc., is included) in additional parts and 300 hrs for a working, but not pretty, conversion if you do the work yourself. Don't forget to get the '91 200q and ur q factory manuals or you will probably add another 100hrs to the job. The Euro ETKA is another must have IMHO. If you pay someone to do the conversion, $10-20k is the going rate depending upon quality...

As a former owner of a '91 200q, I would suggest that you put another transmission in the 200q and enjoy it. If you go the 20Vt ur q route, just remember, I warned you! :)

Steve
'82? Not So ur q 20Vt
2000 A6 2.7tqms

I'm kinda close to the DC area...how much were you thinking for the Ur?

i was thinking around $6k