Had to grind off the stock spring perch mount, 2bennett sleeve mounts just slide over strut and sit on weld for the steering arm. I "JB welded" the sleeves on so they wouldn't move around when adjusting ride height or at any other time.

I bought the coilovers used, I had to make a few mods to make them fit properly, it turns out that if you have Bilsteins the rear sleeves are a different diameter than they are for Konis, so I had to have them machined out to a larger diameter, next time, I'll buy them new, I didn't save any money with used ones!!!

Spring rates (Eibachs) are 350lb. front, 380lb. rear, front rate is almost double what the H&R's were, the rears are 2 1/2 times stiffer than what I had before!!!!
The front feels real good, I think I picked up 1/2" of suspension travel from the low profile of the top spring mount, the front end doesn't bottom any more, I even lowered it 1/2" more to match the rear end ride height, it still doesn't bottom, but, the rear is as stiff as hell!!!!
I'll have to get some softer springs in the rear for street driving (like around 200lb), but man, this car turns!!!!
I can't belive the turn in!!
With the strut bar I added today the thing is INCREDIBLE!!
The car has a way of "rotating" around corners that it never had before, it doesn't understeer anymore!! It's real neutral at mid corner and exit, I can nail the gas and it'll just pull itself out of the corner, before, if I gassed it too hard, the front end would just turn to mush and it would snowplow out to the edge of the corner...

After talking to many guys who race, the key to making a front drive car handle is to increase the rear spring rate and roll stiffness, unfortunatley, this makes the car ride horribly on the street!!

I think the plan for the track is: put the 380lb. rear springs in the front and visa versa in the rear, remove the front swaybar and leave the rear in, this way I'll have more "wheel compliance" for traction in the front, and the rear bar will keep the chassis neutral, even with the softer (350lb.) rear springs!
For the street: I'll install softer springs in the rear for comfort.


<img src="http://www.typ85.com/images/IMAG0016.jpg">


<img src="http://www.typ85.com/images/IMAG0019.jpg">


<B> Rear coilovers</B>



<img src="http://www.typ85.com/images/IMAG0023.jpg">


<img src="http://www.typ85.com/images/IMAG0026.jpg">


<img src="http://www.typ85.com/images/IMAG0022.jpg">

just gotta dodge the pot holes =P

I can't wait to get all my suspension stuff! I'm going be running basically the same thing. Anyway I am wondering what kind of upper strut mounts you have? Are they 2bennett, Mance's (Europrice) or OEM? Thanks

When I get some dough (and a job), i'll get the 2bennett mounts, they are the only ones that can adjust castor and camber on coupes and 4000's!!


<img src="http://www.ubernugen.com/80_90/suspension/HD_mounts.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://www.ubernugen.com/80_90/80-90-susp.htm">Ubernugen</a></li></ul>

Yo Big guy..

Do that carefully, maybe even for about 4 hot laps and then come it to check your front tires.

I torched some yoko es 100's this past summer when I released the front sway bar. I ran a 20 min session and they were chunked big time.

Could be that with the stiffer front springs it wont happen as I would guess both front tires will be working harder than mine were with softer springs when turning.

It was the only change I made to the car for that session, the tires had about 8 track days on them, and I had run 3-4 sessions previously to torching them. BTW I felt no real difference in handling when it was released..

Hal

On the street they'll probably be destroyed tho.

Ha - 25% stiffer here....with a mega front bar. I think your removal of front bar idea is faulty, personally, but I could be wrong...

I've got a 30 mm front bar and Jamex stress bar - in one car, at least. Project freeGT has camberplates, so the bar wouldn't work. Of course, it also has a full roll cage, which eliminates the need for much else...

Carter