Well, after some tweaking.. and massive parts cleaning its finally done (other than I need to replace the downpipe gasket). This took way longer then I expected, Probably because I never got to work on it for one straight period of time.

Was it worth the work and money?..Hard to say as of tonight. Overall the engine seems pull much smoother. At first drive I was disgruntled how it ran, probably because I had pretty high expectations.

It will probably take a few more days of fine tuning to see which combo of ignition/cam timing works out the best. I ended the night with cam timing at -3, which has pretty crappy power down low but is definatly noticable at 4800+ The exhaust note changed quite a bit also, probably due to that crappy idle..sounds like a little race car :)

I also noticed that the car runs much cooler. I did replace the thermostat with an 80 celsius one, flushed the system and filled with new dexcool.

Ill take some pictures of the new engine bay tomorrow also. Can anyone else share thier results with different cam timing setups?


PS, I will also have a polished intake up for sale soon. Email me if interested.

NF head, ported polished, milled, 272 cam with Matched polished intake (exactly like yours ddg).

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/26333/head_swap.jpg"></center><p>Decided to go with blue. To match the cam gear.

The need for speed grows. I need turbo!

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/41804/imag0003.jpg">

Have you driven at night when it's cool??
Wound it out in the 1st three gears on Freeway on ramps??
You should've picked up about 20-30horse...
How much Do you have the ignition timing advanded (do you have a timing light????)????
Have you tried setting the cam timing back to "0"???
It only takes 5min: put car in 5th gear push car back untill cam gear shows timing marks at the top (easier to adjust) lossen screws, rock car back and forth untill you get the right setting, tighen screws...... YOU'RE DONE!!!!!
Go drive like "Mr. kakabag" (me) and see if there's a difference!!

$500... But shipping to Washington state would be some bucks. Question is, what's the head like on the 2.5 - is there a better performance head say from the Audi 2.3 or are they the same cam/valve sizes etc?

Clean out your car!! I'm not kidding!!!
Take out all the crap in the trunk, back seat, glove compartment and take out the spare tire and the jack!! If you have a subwoofer box, get that the hell out of there!!!
Run the gas down to just UNDER a ¼ tank (all this can easily make a 200lb. difference!), put some octane booster in, advance the timing as much as you can (14° to 18°), take the car out on a nice cool damp night, drive mellow till oil reaches full temp... THEN PUNCH IT!!!!!
I GUARANTEE YOU CAR WILL BE FAST!!!!!!!!!!!
Get on the freeway, wind that fvcker out to 6,500 (don't hit the limiter!!) in the 1st three gears, then get off the freeway, drive home, let the car sit and run for a good long time so it'll cool down, then say to yourself outloud: "THIS IS THE FASTEST MY FVCKING CAR HAS EVER GONE"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

<i>Dan,
I'm not a Forum member but that will change...
I paid $500.00 for a complete 2.5 with 40k on it that came from a Eurovan Westfalia that burned to the wheels because of a propane tank leak. It burned the plastics off the engine, but didn't damage anything. The timing belt was intact. The only problem was that the engine was in northeast Québec! I smuggled it through US Customs, as they were more interested in my Wife's green card than in what I had bought.
Stripping it down, it is spotless inside, just a trace of carbon. I have since sold the Eurovan-only cylinder head on E-Bay for $300.00, decreasing my cost to $200.00 plus 18 hours of driving. The deckheight on this motor is taller, and as I mentioned it has an extra oil drain (probably due to the extreme leaning in a Eurovan setup). I will also have to drill a hole for the dipstick tube, as it is on the other side now. I was going to turbo it, but can't see spending $1200.00 for low compression pistons. I figure with the 272° cam, low restriction exhaust, etc. it should have some power.
Worst case, I also have an Audi A4 30V V6 plus a spare block, extra heads, full FI set, etc.

Barney"</i>

You're too old to be getting wound up like that!

Look at the old Jerky in the backround!!!!
<img src="http://www.autoimportcraze.com/images/norcalsocaleuro/cl141.jpg">

I just undo those allen screws and then turn the cam with 19mm wrench to the desired settting. Seems a lot easier.

It's already noticable, especially in the upper rpms. Unlike the old setup, the car actually was power power now at 5000+ rpms. Ive winded it out to 6500 several times today on the on ramps with a grin on my face :)

Yeah, I think the weight makes a huge difference also. I wish I could drive a coupe with the same setup.

On another note, you mentioned to advance quite a bit (14-20). I seriously dont think itll go that high without knocking. Ill let you know though!

I jack up the center w/a floor jack, but one side is always too low for the jackstand to fit...
so I just "get on all fours" put my left shoulder under the rocker panel right behind the front wheel and........
URRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!
LIFT THAT BAD BOY UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!