Especially when you have a free NG laying around! You know, it's been here right under my nose the whole time, and I've kinda dismissed it as an option. After reading ddg's post about his car breaking in, the need for normally-aspirated power is strong.

So, the swap looks much, much easier than an MC swap, and I get to keep my air conditioning (which, ironically, is broken). Let's face it; 160 ponies reigned to the front of my chisled German sled would hit the spot right now, even though the KX does a great job making the car pretty sporty around town.

The NG is an ideal candidate, this particular specimen only has 99k miles. I'd clean the head, get a valve job, and a port-n-polish. Toss on a hot cam, the 4kq DP and manifold, 2.25 free-flowing exhaust, lightened flywheel, and I'm right around where ddg and Dwight are. Now, for the twist...

I've been looking into Megasquirt EFI, some guys on 5000/100/200 are running it, they seem pleased with the results. Would EFI warrant more power out of the motor? 034 would be an option, but it's very spendy, and Megasquirt accomplishes roughly the same thing for way less.

This swap also serves as a nice bridge between now and a turbo. As much as I'd like to dive headlong into an MC swap, this NG just makes more sense right about now.

So, basically, the questions are:
-will MegaSquirt warrant more power?
-how long would this take me to accomplish?
-how difficult is swapping harnesses?

Seems pretty straightforward to me, I'm confident I can do it and have a very quick car when I'm done.

how much, and how difficult?

Just in my opinion, a turbo conversion is the best bang for your buck. Your getting around 160 stock. Chipped, even more. Without excessive machine work.

U know you want it max :)

Can't beat that with a stick!

NG's are 130 hp.

If it's indeed a 7A you're looking to swap in, it has a totally different injection system from your KX, so wiring will be a major PITA. You'll have to swap in the entire 7A wiring.

If you're actually eyeing an NG, then it would be easier, but might not be worth it in terms of power gained.

Have you advanced the timing on your KX, and thrown in an MC/NF/NG cam? It woke up my JT code 4kq with just the timing advance. The cam goes in when I have some time. It's sitting in my garage for now... Total cost on those tweaks is under $50, and should get you 10hp or more in an afternoon. $5/hp is cheap!!

IF your KX has solid lifters, the cam upgrade will not apply to you, but the timing mod should. And it is surprisingly effective. I've advanced mine by an extra 14degrees with no pinging. You may want to start with a bit less....

Good luck.

I have an air/fuel ratio meter, it'll stay @ 13.5:1 at full throttle all the way to redline!!
Turbos use the same air sensor plate, so I don't think that's restricting the air flow.

My engine does knock on 91 oct (that's all we have out here), I'm considering water injection...
I would look into a bigger throttle body and opening up the intake manifold and "match port" the intake and exhaust as well as the other mods we spoke about.
Realisticaly I think you're looking at 150-155 horse, maybe 160 with the other stuff.....

One more thing, turbos don't have the feel of a N.A. engine (yes they have a big rush when the boost comes in, but they are dogs below that point!), the N.A. power band is very linear, it feels like it will pull for fvcking ever!! And NO turbo lag!!

For sheer wheel spinning power, you'll need a turbo.
For a car that runs with most of the normally aspirated modern stuff, won't need a Quaife, and has a linear throttle vs. on/off switch, you'll want the 2.3.
I'd say your plan is around 150hp, maybe a bit less. Severe and expensive machine work is needed to go beyond that, and the cost per hp isn't worth it, IMO.
I also looked into a different injection system. The cost, complication and tuning hassle to get it right simply are not worth it. As aged and simplistic as CIS is, IT WORKS. It's a great design...based on the amount of air the engine draws, it provides the right amount of fuel. Always. And, it's reliable. I could spend hours installing, more hours tuning, be out a lot of money (for a TWM or Electromotive system) and really gain very little power.
My suggestion: stick that puppy in there and try it. I think you'll be happy.

and has the fuel (and now ignition) maps already figured out for the 5 banger. So its up to you if you want to buy a plug and play (O34) or build it yourself with the megasquirt. It might be worth the effort with a pretty radical cam and porting such that you are flowing a lot more air. I'm sure you could dial it in a lot better than with the k-jet. Probably get better mileage to boot.

I can tell you; however that a JT code motor (8.5:1) running 10 psi boost has the "off the line" benefits of a higher compression NA motor with the kick of a turbo and not much lag..

Either way, more power is always a good thing..

Bill
87 4KQT

With you running the old CIS K-Lambda system, you don't have a knock sensor...so it cannot retard the timing when it detects knoock. Sounds to me like you need to retard the timing a bit. Pinging/Knocking is NOT good for your engine. Of course, I'm sure you know this already...

There is still a fuel-only 034EFI computer, which offers better resolution than any MS system does. The fuel/ignition units are true stand-alone systems, outputting to the tach, ISV, anything that can be controlled electronically and has to do with the engine. There are some base maps yes, and many users will be glad to give you pointers or parts of their code to get you running.

Stage 1 class ECU's are "stripped down" versions of the Stage 2, at a reduced cost with partially reduced functions (but they still control enough items to make a very smooth street motor).<ul><li><a href="http://www.034EFI.com">http://www.034EFI.com</a</li></ul>

can you say "left foot braking"?!?!
Good way to keep it spooled up out of corners, and when you let off the brake at 3000rpm, wow!

to what it would cost to drop in a stock MC, which has 162hp and 177lb-ft of torque. Considering you can find people that will burn the QLCC code onto an EPROM for $20-50, and can then find 1.6-1.8bar wastegate springs for similar money, the NF/NG's are a waste. The QLCC code + 1.7bar spring is ~220hp and gobs of torque. MC-2 with a K24 has very little lag really...MC-1 with a K24 has greatly reduced lag over the stock K26 setup.

But seriously, Javad started from scratch, enlisting help from several Auto/Electrical engineers to get the circuitry and such designed and manufactured.

...seems kinda obvious to me. 034EFI is very different...for starters, they don't even use the same EPROM.

Maybe if you were running ITBs or other ridiculous things.