Just heard a story about some place up north, NH or VT, that cryo freezes metal parts to strengthen them. The freeze engine block and parts for racers. I guess the freezing process strengthens the molecules in the metal and helps reduce friction and improves reliability. Also, the person is creating a system that injects a small amount of water into the cylinder which creates a little more power and effiency. I guess it also steam cleans the inside of the engine. If I get a website I will post it. Anyone out there know of anything like this?

Obviously, different than doing it to engine blocks, but still the same idea to yield the same outcome. I had never heard of it before, and was amazed that people actually take golf so damn seriously as to have their clubs cryo-frozen!

--morgan<ul><li><a href="http://www.coldfire.com/">Coldfire info...</a></li></ul>

the guy had a nissan maxima with 325K miles. The car was shot, but he engine was clean and ran perfectly. He froze the engine when was new and installed the water system around the same time. Its amazing what they do.

never really took off though, you had to keep up with your fresh water supply bottle. Most people didn't even check there own oil then.

seriously though where can i learn more about this water thing

diesel engine distributor. I went down to visit on my lunch break to see the old crew and this guy was there talking about this. I'll see if I can get more info.

I've got a slimilar setup on my 4KQT<ul><li><a href="http://www.turbomirage.com/water3.html">http://www.turbomirage.com/water3.html</a</li></ul>

I've heard great things about cryo rotors from people who spend a lot of time at the track. It's likely what I will put on the CGT when the rotors need replacing...<ul><li><a href="http://www.frozenrotors.com/frozenrotors.shtml">http://www.frozenrotors.com/frozenrotors.shtml</a</li></ul>

I had a set of 12x1.25's that were cryo'd. I warped them and wore out a set of pads in 25k. I had a set of normal 12x1.25's. I warped those and wore out pads in the same mileage. The rotors had similar wear. I could see using them in enduro racing, where getting that last bit out can mean a difference of getting a top 3 and hitting the armco.

It is done at a specific temperature for a given metal (and it is at a lower temp than chill hardening, but same principle) to get a certain matrix orientation.

Everything I've been taught says; HEATING metal relieves stress and makes it stronger.
Heat treating metals uses heating and cooling at certain rates to harden the metal, there's also case hardening, where a metal is placed in a bath of carbon or other hardening substance, then heated so the top .030 or so of material is "doped" with a higher carbon content making it "harder"!!

When materials are cooled the atoms/molecules move slower and slower reducing the chance of reacting with each other or other elements (oxidizing for example), I don't see any chance of metals changing thier "lattice structure" when they're close to "absolute 0" (no activity at all)!!
Metal in a cold environment makes it brittle (Titaic anyone??!)