i just started having these problems with my driverside wheel, i just had a new axel put on so im trying to determine if mabey they didn't tighten something up right.

on low rpms i get a vibration through the sterring wheel, didn't have this before, at certain spots the car is stopped the wheel looks as if its crooked, kinda like the toe angle is pointed outward more, its not much but there is a difference.

and when i muscle the tire around i hear a clunking coming from inside the rim area, even if i move to the passanger side it gives this noise on the drivers side, but not the passanger side.

would a bad strut cause this problem? or may something be loose.

thanks
ken

I am assuming that the new axle is good and correct for the application. Check the lug bolts, make sure the tire is tight. Make sure that the outer CV is tight, big nut behind the center of the rim.

To remove the axle, I believe you have to seperate the strut and control arm. They could have pushed the control arm down and damaged/tore the control arm bushings.

If you had the shaft replaced professionally and the strut was bad enough to wobble side-to-side, they should have told you about the bad strut and gave you serious recommendations about replacing it NOW (no-driving on it)!

ok well i checked the lug nuts and they feel ok, i don't have a tire iron that fits them and i don't feel like breaking another ratchet to see if they are fully tight, the wheel doesnt wobble when driving, i had someone take it up the street so i could see.

its not like the rim is moving, more like the rotor.

and the clunking is 100% coming from the rotor area, about the control arm, if its the one that links to the steering its not bent, but where it bolts to the part thats conected to the rotor etc. it isnt straight its at a small angle.

i can't get the cap off the rim to check the outer cv-nut so i guess ill just be taking it in.

and about the strut/shaft comment, what did you mean wobble? its only the rim part, rotor etc. isnt the strut up twards the spring?

its not the wheel bearing, it makes no noise and when it was off and the axel was installed i had them check it.

I bought a 5k that had one of the front struts so bad that it actually had a gap between the rod and the cartridge that it went into. This gap allowed the strut to move around (forward during acceleration and backwards during braking). That is what I meant about the strut.

I also don't expect that control arm is bent by the mechanics, but they may have pushed it down (swivled it on the bushings) too far (out of the way) and ruined the bushings. The 4k control arm bushings are notorious for deteriorating.

If you are sure that the rotor is wobbling, as well as the tire, you might have junk caught between the hub and the rotor. I had that on an old rabbit once after a brake pad change. Rust had fallen off the rotor during install of the rotor and lodged itself between the hub and the rotor. This offset the rotor (around one lug) as well as the wheel. I determined what the problem was when I used the brakes, they pulsated a lot (like warped rotors will do). If you have really good pads and rotors (thickness wise) you might be feeling the rotor touching the pads as it revolves around.

This is all I can think of, hope it helps and you should have a tire iron with your spare tire, if not you need one for those emergencies.

I just had a similar problem on my 87.5 coupe GT... I drove on it for about a month and it got progressively worse. I figured one of my CV's had had it so I finally took it to my mechanic and it turned out that the lower ball joint bolts had vibrated themselves loose. The two bolts that hold your front wheel allignment... The bolts are located on the underside of the A arm nearest the wheel before it forks... Cant miss 'em.

i didn't even think of checking those, thanks

wait why am i so happy? =P

Ken

Sorry i couldn't have been more help. I would definitely reconsider future work from the shop that you took it to. Loose parts like that can be dangerous and In my opinion, there is no reason those things can not be double checked by the mechanic.

you where plenty of help i wouldn't have noticed the control arm which i replaced easily myself,

unfortuently i live in a rural area so its either meineke or midas, and midas see's me coming and has $$ signs in thier eyes