i was talking with a guy today about camshaft settings and he told me that if i move the camshaft FORWARD (twards the drivers side if your looking at the engine from the front) one or two teeth(gear teeth) instead of having it exactly on, and i move the intermediate shaft sproket BACK 1 or 2 teeth depending on what you did with the cam sproket you can get better performance and more power from the car.

anyone tried this? if so does it work, ill try it if anyones interested and post some feedback on it.

also anyone have a DIS kit for this car to sell? been lookin online for awhile now getting tiered of lookin - for a 1980 audi 4000

ken

<center><img src="http://www.tttuning.com/images/enginepics/!109060&.jpg"></center><p>I had one on my 86 CGT. It doesnt increase performance any. It allowed you to move the powerband of the engine higher or lower within the rpm range. Plus the sprocket had only 8 degrees of overall adjustment. I only needed 2 degrees. Moving the cam using the belt teeth is too much, since each belt tooth equals about 10 degrees.

A few folks reported advancing the timing,via the distributor, helps performance, but I never found that to work on my 86 Coupe's 5 cylinder. It liked the stock setting for timing.

For the 4 cylinder, I had a "G" grind cam, and adjustable sprocket, which worked the same on the 4.

I had a friend once who inadvertantly reinstalled the timing belt 1 tooth off. His car did not run well.

Upgrading the ignition is normally needed after extensive mods to the motor.

im upgrading the ignition system to provided a hotter spark, thats a modification in itself

and eats spark plugs! Ask me how I know?

I had a aftermarket ignition system on my 86' CGT.
I first bought the amp and coil for almost $400. Then I found out I needed their "special" wires.
Add another $160. Well, I definetly had more voltage, because it ate spark plugs every 3 months! Sure I had a larger gap, but the plugs would errode much more quickly! I found the cheap A/C Delco iron core plugs lasted the longest. Then I found the cap and rotor were being erroded more quickly too! I had to change
cap, rotor, plugs every 3-6 months. Performance wise it seemed to help in the higher rpm range.
But this was on a motor which was "highly-modified".

dis eliminates the need for a cap rotar etc you no longer need that, and the kits are no where near the amount you spent, my brother got one for his 72 chevelle for 250$ and thats a 8cyl car, i seen 4cyl ones for 150-175$, the kit includes a unit where you set the "timing" and other optimal settings, this system doesnt give you just a hotter spark my brothers gas guzzling chevelle's gas cunsumption has gone down noticbly.

anyone else have any feed back on this? the only thing thats bad i can see is that if the unit goes out you have to buy a new amp or new kit which from what i have read is about the same price, but my brother has had his for about 2 years and no problem, not dealing with the cap/rotar assembly is heaven alone.

check out the url thats the one im buying, once installed ill post feedback<ul><li><a href="http://www.directignition.com/">DirectIgnition.com</a></li></ul>

There's always advantages to eliminating the distributor!

Please let us know how it pans out for you!

I'm running about 12 deg on a NF with a Schrick; have to use 93 octane obviously.

On my KX motor, I kept the ignition timing on the stock setting. But ran the adjustable cam sprocket at 2.5 degrees advance. I played around with the distributor, and found my engine ran better on the stock settings. Of course the engine was not stock internally.