i need help replacing my slave cylinder. if someone would be so kind to do a detailed write up including special tools i might need and how to take the seat out maybe even with pictures ill give you a shiny gold star

Move the seat back and remove the two 13mm bolts on the front of the seat bottom rails, unplug the electrical connectors and slide the seat back out of the side rail. The master is mounted with two 6mm allens. There's a pin and a clip that mount the clevis to the pedal. You may have remove the pedal assembly to get the master out. 4 13mm nuts up on the fire wall.

I don't have my book with me at work right now , but here are some other points of interest .

Underneath your Brake master cylinder you will find a covered rubber tube that disappears into the engine fire wall ---> this ends up feeding the Clutch Master Cylinder with Brake fluid.

Once the new C Master cylinder * has been installed you then can start to do the Bleeding process.
> The Bentley says that you need to pressure bleed this system . I used 30-35 PSI.
> Find the nipple on the Slave which is situated on top of the trans. ( follow the line that goes from the C MC through the bottom of the firewall up to the Slave )
> Make sure that the bleed screw is loosened ( you almost have to get into the engine compartment ... fun ) I used a small box end wench I think it was an 8mm.
>now add a small clear tube to the end of the bleed screw. ( the bleed screw is now closed ) The reason for doing this is so that you can see the bubbles of air in the brake fluid .
> take the tube off of the brake master cylinder reservoir . This is where I pressurized the clutch system from. You will have to figure out how to attach a pressure source to the line. ( * note before doing this when you attach the new C MC to the line that feeds FROM the Brake MC you may want to put a small clamp on this so that the pressure doesn't pop the tube off //// ) Make sure that the tube is full of B Fluid.
> pressurize line
>open Slave bleed screw slowly , watch for air bubbles. Don't forget to refill the filler line with more brake fluid as needed .
>>>>>Repeat until you don't get any bubbles .
Tighten bleed screw reattach filler line to C MC .
Hope this helps
Superdave

I'd use ~15 PSI and supply the pressure through the brake fluid reservoir. Taking the tube to the MC off the nipple of the reservoir almost guarantees you'll introduce more air when you reinstall it on the nipple. It might take a bit longer, but you'd be sure you got all the air out.

my problem is Kneale is when I pressurize the Brake Reservoir ...I blow the cap off and it creates a real mess. What do you do to insure the cap doesn't leak or pop off when Pressuring the Res ?

You ask..

"What do you do to insure the cap doesn't leak or pop off when Pressuring the Res ?"

You need to use a *way* lower pressure!

When I was helping Steve do his clutch adventure, we were using <2 lbs. from a pump sprayer that was supplying the brake fluid. (If you could see the pressure gauge move off the stop, the pressure was too high!)

Pressure bleeding doesn't need much pressure. ( <5 lbs shoud work just fine!) You need just enough pressure to overcome gravity and air bubbles.. :-)

Sometimes...

Mr. Bentley's manual (does not) = Real World!


(Or else Mr. Bently has a twisted sense of humour..?)

How are you pressurizing the reservoir? I use an Eezibleeder and a air pressure regulator set at 15 psi. The Eezibleeder includes a cap for the reservoir and a separate container for new brake fluid to replace what you bleed out.

If you scroll down <a href="http://www.rdent.com/pages/tools.html">HERE</a> you'll see the Eezibleeder.

Another alternative is the home-made version described in <a href="http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm">THIS</a> website.