I have an 1989 Audi and have no idea how to go about pulling the codes. I have seen some people make a little tool so they can do it themselves. Even so, i have no idea how to use the gadget and how to go about reading and understanding the codes.

Thanks,
Lucas

See attached link. Scotts site will detail everything you need to know!<ul><li><a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/">http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/</a</li></ul>

thanks a bunch. I actually already knew of his site. I plan on ordering some stuff from there. Seems like there are some pretty aewsome deals.

Understand this jumper system he uses? I don't understand how to connect them to the two connecters hanging under the dash.

I understand the set up of the jumper/LED system. I plan on making a switch for the jumper too.

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2082/1763370649_28e4718210_o.jpg">

A simple toggle switch so I wouldn't have to keep removing/installing the jumper.

The ends are half of a 1/4" U shaped pieces, with one tang cut off. This fits PERFECTLY into the little female slots (hur hur).

<img src="http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/images/wire_repair_04.jpg">

Just like that. The U works the best but you can always cut a full O into one that will work. Cuts easily with side-cutters/diagnal cutters.

The pink is shrink wrap for my soldering.

The LED was bought JUST LIKE THAT from Radio Shack. It's already set up for 12V and fairly bright. Same deal with the U pieces and shrink wrap.

awesome.

I accidentally bought an AC swtich, so i will just return it. I'm not really botherd by having to push and pull a wire, but if i want a switch i can add one later.

I followed Scotts directions and bought a resistor and LED. I decided to get a larger tolerance LED and run a smaller resitor simply because they didn't have 1/4w 680 ohm resistors at the radioshack near my house.


As far as connection is concerned, the left side of ear terminal is a posi. and the right a neg. ???

scratch that.

I just returned the stuff and got one of those resistor/LED things. haha

It's designed for, I dunno, dash applications. So it's an LED already resistored and ready for 12V. I went with that.

I've soldered resistors to LEDs before for blinking codes on other vehicles (944's) and I hated working with them.

The toggle was kinda pricey, $3 or $4.

Well i got it figured out.

It flashed my codes and i missed on. So i replaced the jumper and saw a spark. My fuse busted, bought some new 10s and plugged on in.

Correct my if i'm wrong but you need to drive you car for at least 15-20 mins to recieve code information, correct?

the only code i got was 2121-then it proceeded to flashed for 2.5 seconds (that means it is done reading the codes right?)

If not, please clarify me. I am new to Audis and need all the info i can get!

Why are you using the LED setup? Personally i have always installed a bulb in the CEL gauge pod circuit factory ommision) so i know if codes are being activated whilst driving.

Eric

Insert jumper for 4 seconds, read the first code. It will cycle the same code until you insert jumper (4 secs) again.

Once you cycle through all the codes you'll get the long blinks which means you're done!

Eric

I will install a bulb when i have my instrument cluster out in a couple weeks.

I blew a LOT of fuses with my shaky hands.

So this way I leave the jumpers in, avoid accidently grounding/blowing the fuse, and easily flick the switch for the next code.

<center><img src="http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/larsonL08/DSC_0033.jpg"></center><p>
so when i reset for another code i just hold the switch for 4 seconds and let go. :)

minus the blown fuse it seemed to work awesome.

It's too cold in Minnesota to work outside today. So i am going to take a few nights off. Actual highs will be subzero.