Do you guy's use anti seize on your spark plug threads? I know Porsche recommends NOT to use anti seize on plugs due to it acting as an insulator between the plug and the head. I'm going to be changing my plugs on the 87 5KCSTQ (I've never changed them since I've owned the car) and I'm wondering if I should use Anti seize on them. I'll be using the Bosch W7DTC plugs or I believe W7DTC are NLA by Bosch but they have a newer replacement that is tantamount the the W7DTC. TIA

Randolph

Ive used antiseeze on the plugs in my 5 KTQ 4 the last 5 years & with Bosch BP6ET plgs in my car with no adverse effect. This is the first Ive ever heard of NOT using this.It kind of makes sense to use it in that you have 2 disssimiliar metals. Also I work with race cars that have aluminium heads & we often put a small amount on the plug theads to avoid damaging the cyl head threads. Id be real interested in finding out more info on this As I said earlier I use a small amount {a lagrge drop about the size of pencil eraser} just my .25 Gary

I agree with scruffie
1) So they don't seize strip out especially on long life plugs in aluminum
2) Dissimalar metals
3) Atain proper torque
4) On cast iron heads so they don't rust
I guess someone could argue that conductivity "could" be decreased but at the torque they are under there is a metal to metal contact. There is more conductivity lost in the wires. With ignition systems after the late 70's there is so much current that the anti seize is a negligable factor in conductivity.

What I do is wipe it on the very top of the threads in a very light coat. I do this by putting a little amount on the top then smearing it around then entire top of the plug with a rag or paper towel. That way you have a uniform light coating of it. I also do the dielectric grease on the connectors on both ends of the plug wires.

Just my 2 cents.

Antisieze is NOT an insulator... it's very conductive.

edited to add- it occurred to me that it may seem like I"m calling you a liar. I'm not. :)

on me was on my parents' '78 VW Rabbit. I was changing the plugs for them as I was learning how to do all this PM stuff. It was the 1st set of replacements at IIRC 15,000 miles. Cylinder #1 hex part & all ceramic sheared from the threads flush with the top of the cylinder head! What the hell was I going to do??

Called my dad to the garage as I was thinking oh sh*t, this has to be towed etc. Dad looks at it and he goes to a drawer and introduces me to "Easy outs". Amazing. The tip of the bit barely bent the electrode. I'll never forget that day. Dad taught me a lot.

Yes, he got out a can of Fel-Pro Anti-Seize for me to use on the new plugs. That one has copper color to it. I used it yesterday on the whell bolts when installing the winter wheels & tires on my D3. That 28+ year old can is almost empty, I had to get a stick to stir it up to get out the compound at the bottom of the can.

He was a carpenter. Rough & Finish. Rest in peace Dad, I sure miss you.

Yes, I remember Porsche technical bulletin telling us not to use anti-seize on plug threads, that was long ago.

There are some discussions on this subject on Rennlist and Pelican parts. This subject has also come up for discussion with some PCA members. Honestly, I've never really paid much attention to this subject because I've never owned a car long enough to deal with spark plugs (at least up till now, owning this 5K). There is a TSB from Porsche saying not to use it. Like your saying, I also would think you would want to use a little on the threads.

Randolph