so this weekend i plan to replace the distributer, change the valve cover gasket and a few other random fixes on my 86 5ktq. I have never had to replace a distributer before so i am unsure exactly the procedure for removal/replacement. I know there is a 13mm nut holding it in place(i've had to tinker with it to get the car to start a few times now) but other than that I am not too sure about what else needs to/should come off for the procedure. I don't have a bently or else this would probably be a lot easier.

Also on installation I know the new one has to go in in the exact position the old one came out so as to not have to re-time the engine(unless I am wrong here) and that there is a knob that points to where the #1 cylinder plug wire should be attached and then going around the circle(clockwise?) the wires go back on in firing order(which is I believe 1-2-4-5-3 from reading the info about the car in the model guide here).

From what I understand the valve cover gasket should be a straightforward replacement(any suggestions for a sealant?) I just do not know the torque specs for the bolts, if anyone has them I would appreciate it.

This may seem like a lot to be unsure about, but I am still only 20 and never really had to work on my first audi before she left me. I just want to make sure i do things right, and would like to learn as much as possible in the process. Thanks in advance for any advice/help you guys have.

Yes, the distributor needs to go back in in exactly the same position as the one being removed.

The firing order is stamped into the side of the block. easy to find.

Torque specs for gaskets... low. 7 ftlb according to Bentley.

Good luck.

i used blue RTV. I used a thin layer around the entire bottom of the gasket. Make sure the surfaces are clean of the old gasket. Torque evenly and in a cross pattern.

all i know is it looks pretty neat

When reading up on O2 sensors one comment was that silicone gasket sealers can hert the O2 sensor. Not sure why but for what its worth...

I think you'll find it very difficult to get it to go back in the exact same way due to the nature of the ease with which the distributor will turn on you.

Your best bet is to get the engine to TDC and then replace the distributor. It's actually pretty easy to get it to TDC once you know how. My first time I spent an hour cause the mark on the crank pulley was off, however.

To get to TDC, there's three marks that will help you. (1) The crankshaft pulley should have a notch or nick in it somewhere which should line up with a bump on the timing belt cover. (2) The second one is on the camshaft pulley. If you look at the back of the cam-shaft pulley through the little hole in the top, driver's side of the timing belt REAR cover you will see a little dimple that should line up with the with the bottom of that hole, specifically with where the valve cover gasket would be. (3) on the flywheel there is a "0" which is supposed to get lined up so that half of it is visible past the protrusion. This can be hard to see, and is what took me so long to find. Just look in the L shapped hole where the base of the transmission meets the engine. The mark on the flywheel is the most accurate, however the mark on the cam pully is most important for TDC as it rotates once per two rotations of the flywheel. So, get the flywheel mark correct, then check the camshaft mark and if it's not there you need to rotate the engine once more. You can rotate the engine with a 27mm socket on the crankshaft bolt, or by hand laying on the floor and spinning the crankshaft with on hand and the alternator with the other...if the belt is good and tight the engine will turn (out of gear)

Once at TDC, you can put the distributor in however you want...just line up the rotating part's little notch with where the rotor is pointing, and then put the cap on so that the post for cylinder one is lined up with the rotor and the notch. Tighten it down and you should be set.

Good luck

Jon