Okay, the brake pad warning light comes on almost every time I start the car. It's time to do the pads.

I have read all the posts on brake pad replacement and I want to do it myself but I am a little tool-challenged.

I understand you need a socket and an open-end wrench; I have the metric socket set, but I'd like to know what size open-end I'll need.

I have the pads, and can pick up some lubricant for the slider bolts. I'll also need the c-clamp for pushing the pistons back. The correct c-clamp size would be . . .?

Finally, I guess, I'll need some penetrating spray with which to loosen the hardware.

What have I forgotten? What else might I need?

Thanks in advance for any help . . .

>>I have the pads, and can pick up some lubricant for the slider bolts. I'll also need the c-clamp for pushing the pistons back. The correct c-clamp size would be . . .?

The biggest c-clamp that you can afford. Use the old brake pad and place the clamp against it. I use a hydraulic clamp to retract the piston.

I looked at the pads, and thought, "it can't be all that tough".

So I took the LF off and started. Two bolts* (13mm) out, unhook the sensor, and voila, the caliper was off & the pads were out. In fact they were rattling around.

When the car has been cold (freezing-ish) I have heard a rattle from the LF, thinking it was a strut that was okay when warm, but loose or low on fluid that manifested itself when cold.

I am now convinced it was the pads rattling. (The LF pad was showing through at the sensor)

In the middle of everything I had to walk over to Ace Hardware for the c-clamp. You're right, big is good, and something with which to get a purchase on the piston rim is a must.

The RF was easier, but I noticed the RF had the sensor pad to the inside, rather than the outside as on the LF. So, when I was done there, I went
back and switched the LF pads around, so that the sensor was to the inside, and the wiring was run under the shielding.

Pumped the brakes, fired her up and . . . the *$(^@&^# light went on!

I drove the car, re-starting every few blocks, and the same *$(^@&^# thing.

It drives and stops great, it's just that stupid freaking light!

I guess it's off for contact cleaner now . . .


*By the way, the inner nut, on the slider, seems to be 14mm, which strikes me as being kind of nutty, when the outer one is 13mm!

Is it the yellow pad light (0) or the red brake light?

. . . I found the problem.

The sensor leads were pinched through on the RF, leaving an open circuit.

I have done a temporary patch (wouldn't you know it, I have everything lying around here but solder!), but at least for now I get the 'OK' light when I start up.

There's a good reason for having a 13mm, then a 14mm.
Most people would have a set of wrenches with only one of each. While the 13mm is used on the bolt, the 14mm wrench holds the nut.

. . . but at the time, 13mm socket and 13mm open-end in hand, it didn't seem such a great stroke of genius!

By the way, I got a bit of twin-lead, and some solder, and I repaired the sensor lead coming off the RF pad.

It is now working hunky and / or dory . . .

a few weeks later after installation, I noticed the sensor connector and wiring hanging down from the pads. The connector had come loose from its hanger, allowing the wiring from the pad to get really chewed up. There wasn't much hope in repairing it. Since the pad was still new, I didn't want to replace it, so I just disconnected the wiring from the connector, took a paper clip and bent it so that that I could insert the open ends into each side of the connector to complete the circuit. Then I just wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape. Works just fine to keep the yellow light off. I just remember that only one brake is sensing brake pad wear. .....Rooster