I used a dwell meter to do this.
the mixture was actually almost dead on before I adjusted it? I'm not sure if the needle is supposed move back and forth on the meter, but it was. I set it so It was bouncing between 40 and 45 on 4cyl dwell. What I cant figure out is, if I was so close to within range then why the hell are my plugs showing signs of having a lean mixture! The porcelin on all of my plugs is white as white can be? WHAT!!!

I cant figure it out?

Please someone anyone help me figure this mind boggling thing out!

what would make th plugs look like they are running lean but the dwell meter shows the mixture to be correct?

Thanks in advance

Just some extra info on adjusting mixture:

If I remember right, the needle on the dwell will cycle back and forth when the O2 sensor warms up enough to function closed loop...

It should cycle between 45-55 duty cycle which is something like 38-52 on the dwell scale.

Some people set the duty cycle lower (42%) to try and richen the mixture up in the higher rev range.

Now to address your question about running lean: have you checked ignition timing?

You're running my stock ecu right now, right?

Before that you were running a regulator on the wastegate. How much boost did you have that set at?

Good luck.

Steve
Michigan

yes 'm using your Ecu. But only since last wednsday.the plugs have been in for two weeks. I ma still using the pressure regulator as a bosst controller, it is set to 1.4-1.5 on the cars digital gauge.

Pull the dipstick, does it stumble and recover idle? If no, you have a air leak, you are lean. If yes, ck the WOT switch. A new O2 will hit whatever you set dwell at pretty much without fluctating more than 1 or 2 degrees. An older/slower O2 will fluctuate 5-10 degrees. At 5-6, you may want to consider O2 replacement. Other problem may be a bad engine temp sender out of spec control/system pressure

HTH

Scott Justusson

Did you pull (and plug) the crankcase breather? (if you didn't) it will cause a slightly richer reading.

Sorry, I edited to make it a bit clearer.

HTH

Yes pulling the dipstick will make her run rough, pulling the oil cap will cause her to stall.

All of my intake and pcv hoses are new and tight.

For the testing:
I did not pinch off the breather hose.......

nor did I removeve the cap on the charcaol canister's vacuume line......

Should I do that and re-test?

My 02 sensor was replaced about 5000 miles ago. It is the Bosch generic three wire one (cheaper).

The dwell needle seemed to bounce back and forth about 8 degrees, but where I set it at, it only bounces back and forth about five dgrees.

It seemed that if I turned the adjustment too far, the needle would go to 50 degrees and stay there. Does that sound right?

My throttle switch is also brand new, but maybe I should test to see if it is working right?


Also ,I forgot to mention this, but my ISV is unpugged......it doesnt work.

would that make a difference with setting the mixture?

ISV shouldn't make a difference. The O2 when it gets a signal out of range will cause the ECU to fix a DC of 50% (see other posts). Just like before the o2 is warm. I usually see a variance of 3 degrees on a new O2, but I don't use generics either. You may want to make sure the heating element is working.

WOT switch should be cked at the ECU, since the wires can get pulled out from it. Also make sure there isn't a signal when "off" idle from the idle switch.

All hoses should be disconnected to get a valid CO adjustment. Follow Bentley here.

8 degree sweep on the CO signal indicates to me that you might be getting an air leak. Virtual diagnostics suck.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning

Thanks Scott.


But how do I test to see if the 02's heating element is working?